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hello all my nissan junkies! i am doing a vg34ett swap! if you are not familiar with this build then here it is straight forward, the vg34 is a cross breed between a vh45/vk45 and a vg33. by doing a certain bore you can use the pistons in these vg33s! so, here is the beginning of my thread, i will be doing a full video of the swap on youtube and you can follow me at Super_sketchy_time on youtube for that coming soon. otherwise ill just start here for questions and some answers! i recently picked up a low miles xterra 3.3l vge for free, and i pulled the crank pistons and rods made sure the heads were backed off a hair so i could pull the pistons effortlessly. i pulled these so i could check clearance between the crank and main caps as well as check the cylinder walls for any excessive damage. i then pulled the cams because i will be using some old 80s model z31 cams. next i pulled my donor parts from my q45 engine, after doing so i found that stainless rb26det turbo manifolds can be fitted with some fabrication to a vg engine so i will be taking any questions on that. i decided to go with some of the nissan quest parts for accessories as i do use heavy sound equipment in my vehicles. going for power i am using a nissan quest alternator with quest accessory mounts. i bought some fairly cheap gasket kits to do this swap ad ended up having to buy a few gaskets individually because ebay gaskets can be iffeee sometimes. my 91 came stock with a auto trans wich i will now be replacing with a 5 speed 2003 exterra trans! yes i know 5th has a diffrent gear but i like it better than the original beater 5 speeds! i first had to install the pedal assembly from auto to manual in this process you will need a donor clutch pedal with assembly mount. a manual brake pedal, and donor clutch lines from any d21 or wd21 from 86.5 to 1995. i bought a new master and slave cylinder because my older ones that sat for years waiting for this day had seized up and died lol. for cluth i chose a stage 3 sprung 6 puck disc and stage 3 pressure plate since i am doing a twin turbo swap i felt i need the extra grab and i know ill burn the oem clutch right out! i also decided to use the 80s 2 door pathy/d21 vg30 valve covers so i could rid of those stupid oil travel lines in the front of the engine on top of the timing covers. for turbos i decided to go with 2 garret rb26dett stockies i found rebuilt. and bear wit me here i still have a move happening so itll be a few more weeks till i can hit the machine shop for heads and cylinder wall work. any questions or advice would be greatly appreciated! -Keeyinn89pathfinder

here is my intro post, which is what i believe to be a premise to this topic haven't logged in here in a while. hope everyone's recovering from modern pandemia. certainly drove me nuts starting off in town as a fast food worker. now i am settled in my early 20s with an oil gun and expertise on oil maintenance reminder reset procedures (for a small business with seniority). leaky susan, whom i call now the fleenmobile, is still in my possession and as of now i have clocked in 9k miles since i claimed her two years ago. back in october last year my inexperience with snow/sleet covered roads took the better of my driving capabilities and as a result, slid into the side of a crew cab pickup. everyone involved was ok, and the other party had full coverage while i ride on liability. accidents happen but i can't say that i didn't have a bad taste in my mouth over this for a while. the damage you see is purely cosmetic. i'll live with my inflated insurance rate. my affection for my truck hasn't faltered. in fact, this really pushed my encouragement to restore this truck, mainly in spirit. i don't aim for this to be show quality, but to be respectably solid. per request from my boss, who also has a mechanics shop on the same property as i quickly lube sixer mustangs and fiat rams, i have compiled a list of things to do for my truck to start off and i hope to get on with it this summer, and hopefully be involved in doing work for someone who hasn't had much opportunity to do some decent mechanical and suspension work and not feel intimidated by it. just finished replacing the pads and rotors on this truck yesterday. those hubs were a bit frustrating to figure out on my own, but it was more time consuming for me than it was difficult any advice regarding the bodywork or anything is welcome; i think i'm going to make this an update topic for my truck. anyways, i'll still be around reading through. thank you all for this community.

The wiring is just spade terminals from behind. It was a dealer install as far as I can tell. Should be an aftermarket-looking relay bolted to the firewall near the passenger's side hood hinge or the wiper motor, and a fuse holder hanging off the positive terminal on the battery. I would start by finding the fuse holder and making sure it's still connected and still has a good fuse in it, then check for power to the relay. IIRC you've got a wire tapped into one of the low beam wires inside the steering column clamshell, running from there to the switch, then from the switch to the relay coil, then to ground.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17104-threadlocker-on-power-valve-screws-pics/page-1

Finally finished mine, from Coastal. I think it’s a fantastic build. It’s very heavy but very sturdy. There ARE some flaws in the design that they don’t account for, such as the dinky little power steering line that runs across the front of the frame, so that was a huge pain to bend and move out of the way... resulting in some crushed fins on my condenser, but oh well, more reason to install an aftermarket cooler eventually. I really took my time welding the kit, made sure it was solid throughout, but I also have a pretty decent set of welding machines at work. It’s not going to be easy with a smaller welder, so be prepared to either have a decent one at your expense, or someone that can weld it. The total time it took me to bevel the edges, tack it together, weld, grind, stitch-weld the inside, etch, prime, and paint was a little over 36 hours, and I was definitely taking my time. All in all, it’s a fantastic kit, the piece quality was actually great, and the metal was very clean and ready to weld, minus the edges that all had to be beveled. For the price and availability, I strongly recommend their service.