OR99.5Speed Posted July 15, 2006 Share Posted July 15, 2006 First off, I don't know what forum this should be in. I'm leaning towards R50 so here it is. I was about to sell the Pathfinder, but now the oil consumption has gone from normal/acceptable to GODDAMN! I've taken it off the market and will probably put $$$ into and keep it for a while. I'm either going to need a new engine or a rebuild. There is a lot of blowby, evidenced on the rear bumper above the tailpipe. It's now burning 1 qt/1000 miles, maybe more. The lifters clatter a few seconds on a cold start, much more than a normal motor. There is a very slight tapping at the bottom end as well. I'll get a leakdown/compression test when I get home in a month to see what the cause is. So here is the question. If I keep it for another 20k+ miles, which if I put another engine in it I will, I know I can go the Ebay route and pick up a used JDM engine with around 50k miles for $1,400 or so. But can I do a VQ35? I don't have bottomless pockets, nor technical expertise. A trusted shop, one of the best in ATL, will be doing all of the work. Can a VQ35 work? What mods will be needed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted July 15, 2006 Share Posted July 15, 2006 How many miles do you have on it again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OR99.5Speed Posted July 15, 2006 Author Share Posted July 15, 2006 How many miles do you have on it again? I know, I know... 110k. It's a premature death, as it was run low on oil, causing the damage. :sniff: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted July 15, 2006 Share Posted July 15, 2006 A VQ35 swap will require a new computer, new sensor wiring, and new tranny. If you can pick up entire drivetrain from a wrecked 01+, go for it, but it's not going to be nearly as easy as swapping in another VG33. If your valves are bad, but the rings and cylinders are still good you might only need a top-end rebuild. That would be a considerably less expensive route. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OR99.5Speed Posted July 15, 2006 Author Share Posted July 15, 2006 Thanks XPLOR. I wasn't sure if my manual tranny was the same as the VQ's manual trans, of if the housing was different. My problem is that wrecked manual Pathfinders aren't terribly commonplace. I figured an ECU would need to be swapped; not sure about bracketry, mounts, etc. All hidden costs. Any ideas of where to search for a wrecked R50, preferably in Atlanta? If this project is too complicated I doubt it will get off the ground, but I just want to be sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OR99.5Speed Posted July 15, 2006 Author Share Posted July 15, 2006 Forgot to tell XPLOR that I guess a compression and leakdown test will tell what needs to be rebuilt. The tapping at the bottom end tells me the whole engine is toast, but someone with more knowledge can chime in here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4x4le Posted July 15, 2006 Share Posted July 15, 2006 shouldnt the tranny work since it is manual? I thought you could use manuals from nissan v6s on all nissan v6s, well trucks at least. Swapping the engine would be too much work, just replace it with a jdm and if your looking for more hp do the cams. I think they bring you to 210. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OR99.5Speed Posted July 15, 2006 Author Share Posted July 15, 2006 shouldnt the tranny work since it is manual? I thought you could use manuals from nissan v6s on all nissan v6s, well trucks at least. Swapping the engine would be too much work, just replace it with a jdm and if your looking for more hp do the cams. I think they bring you to 210. Not a bad idea...I guess I could convince Dad to order the JWT cam...the mild one. If it adds 15+ hp I'd be happy...I just want more midrange! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted July 15, 2006 Share Posted July 15, 2006 Intake/Exhaust, Electric Fan, Cams, Hubs. My truck screams---the guys at the local Nissan Dealership (2 of them anyhow) drove my truck for test runs and both were wide eyed at how quick it was...with 32's!! It is possible in the future that I will get a second set of heads, and have them ported and polished with at least a 3 angle valve job also. If I get extreme then I might even hunt down some titanium springs and retainers and try to reduce some of the heads weight...after all I see one company on eBay sells rebuilt heads for 250 plushipping for the vg33e. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted July 16, 2006 Share Posted July 16, 2006 after all I see one company on eBay sells rebuilt heads for 250 plushipping for the vg33e. Got a link? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted July 16, 2006 Share Posted July 16, 2006 Liny-Dink Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted July 16, 2006 Share Posted July 16, 2006 This is local for me..... Now to figure out for rebuilding my vg30e...... Unless I can find that perfect DE :o Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OR99.5Speed Posted July 17, 2006 Author Share Posted July 17, 2006 98SilverPathy, Have you had any reliability issues directly related to your aftermarket parts? E-Fan failure? Anything? Is yours an auto or manny? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuismO Posted July 18, 2006 Share Posted July 18, 2006 shouldnt the tranny work since it is manual? I thought you could use manuals from nissan v6s on all nissan v6s, well trucks at least. Swapping the engine would be too much work, just replace it with a jdm and if your looking for more hp do the cams. I think they bring you to 210. which cams are you speaking of? i too would be happy with a 15+ hp gain let alone 40+. would these be street legal in CA? smog laws are insane in calif. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OR99.5Speed Posted July 18, 2006 Author Share Posted July 18, 2006 which cams are you speaking of? i too would be happy with a 15+ hp gain let alone 40+. would these be street legal in CA? smog laws are insane in calif. It's a cam sold by JWT and 4x4parts. Since the 3.3 is SOHC, it's only one cam. About $500, and not sure if it's CARB legal. I would like to explore getting my cam reground to be a bit more aggressive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted July 18, 2006 Share Posted July 18, 2006 Actually, it would be two, instead of 4. Don't forget you have two banks on your motor.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OR99.5Speed Posted July 18, 2006 Author Share Posted July 18, 2006 Actually, it would be two, instead of 4. Don't forget you have two banks on your motor.... Wow, I think I took my retard pills today. You're right! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted July 19, 2006 Share Posted July 19, 2006 TONS! No, but really the E-Fan is great and I still erccommend having the low side on the thermostat and the high side of the fan a switch manual at your convience. The cams are giving me a fit, I really think that I should have done this myself despite having never done anything like that before, only because I would have been more cautious (therefore correct) about the install. I think now that I may have to get another set of lifters for the pass side head and I will end up getting new OEM springs, retainers, and valve seals just becasue they are so noisy. I just think that this was a bad call on part all the way around. When adding after market parts people (myself included) need to stop thinking that parts are just like legos on the engine. You can't just stack sheit on the motor and expect. I know in my own mind that I should have bought new springs/retainers and seals ahead of time but was too cheap (after the outlay I already made) and likewise for the knock sensor...now it costs me more to go back and time is wasted now also. The only other fault in the truck at the moment is perhaps another end-link going bad...I have a miserable clunk in the front driver side that pops/clunks over small hills and bumps. It could be a ball joint warning me or just a bad end link. It was just at the alignement shop and that dued would have caught a bad ball so end link me think! This is related to the lift since my ends are only 3 yrs old. ...oh and the driverside OEM axle is finally tearing at the boot. No biggie thats a fun exercise!!?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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