Casey.T Posted July 8, 2006 Share Posted July 8, 2006 Ok, Boys and Girls.... As we all know back in October I blew my timing belt and with 224k on the engine and the rebuilt tranny I opted for replacing the engine.. Bought the JDM stripped it down to the block and rebuilt it from there. The Block and heads are the only things from the JDM I used everthing else is Original Pathy. ECU Code 55 1. Timing is set 2. Double checked all the connections are tight and where they need to be. 3. New Plugs 4. New fuel filter 5. EGR Tube tight on both ends 6. MAF Cleaned(works fine on the 95) 7. Upper and Lower Intake Hot tanked and re-assembled 8. New Vaccuum hoses connected where they need to be I dont know... I am at a loss... Will not idle Above 2k rpms runs great. Exhaust smells some what like burnt fire works? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted July 9, 2006 Share Posted July 9, 2006 did some varmit climb in the exhaust and build a nest in the exhaust somewhere...burnt fireworks kinda smells like sulfer/boiled eggs hows the cat?... im not sure of the ecu codes but it sounds like it should be something simple or possibly the crank angle sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattd123 Posted July 9, 2006 Share Posted July 9, 2006 the rotten egg smell usualy meens a missfire... tell me exactly what code are coming up and ill look up the definitions if you dont know them you sure its ecu code 55 they usually start at 100 or 0100 ill try and help as much as i can feel free to pm me if i can help i will Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 9, 2006 Share Posted July 9, 2006 6. MAF Cleaned(works fine on the 95) Seems to me that there was some confusion if all the MAF/s are the same (87-95). Let me try and look... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 9, 2006 Share Posted July 9, 2006 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5194 Are the actual sensors different ?? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted July 9, 2006 Author Share Posted July 9, 2006 91 acting like crap.... 95 works wonderfully... These 2 have the same set up and MAF fit and worked NP..... Granted I did not go for a drive or anything... just lit it up and it ran fine in the 95.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted July 9, 2006 Author Share Posted July 9, 2006 The old motor ran like a champ up until the timing belt went... Misfiring?? Ill swap out plug wires in the morning... Cap and Rotor are new so im not worried there... Through all of this the only thing I can think of is when I was re-installing the fuel rails 2 and 4 had to be routed under the lower intake.... I may have crossed them... ughhh pulling the top of the intake will be fun.... Ill start with the plug wires and go from there.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted July 9, 2006 Share Posted July 9, 2006 u sure the plugs were gapped right? and i'd also check to make sure all of the plug wires were connected good in the 1st place... i know when i test ran wheelmans pathy it and had some black smoke if u hit the gas and i thought i worried about it for a couple of days until i went to pull the motor and i noticed 1 of the plug wires wasnt snapped in and i could see the marks on the boot from the arcs missing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted July 9, 2006 Share Posted July 9, 2006 Through all of this the only thing I can think of is when I was re-installing the fuel rails 2 and 4 had to be routed under the lower intake.... UNDER the intake? you talkin about the plug wires? they should go THROUGH the top of the intake.... mr casey. what ARE you doing over there! lol. as mentioned above.. check yer gaps are all the same..... wires on tight and in the right place.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted July 9, 2006 Author Share Posted July 9, 2006 (edited) Bosch +4's no gaping required... swapped the wires 1 at a time from the 95, 95 ran like a champ.. 91 ran the same.. pulled the intake to double check the Fuel rail connections on #2 and #4... they have to be correct to swap them would be next to impossible.... Almost to a point where I am frustrated......... Edited July 9, 2006 by Casey.T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted July 9, 2006 Author Share Posted July 9, 2006 (edited) OK, all back together again... Played with all the connections while running minor improvement... Exhaust is not nearly as bad.... It will idle once it warms up, but its rough.... The good news is... No Fluid Leaks -bounce- Edited July 9, 2006 by Casey.T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 have you slung any lucas fuel treatment in the tank? you said that gas was in there since last october...... sure all the sensors are working and plugged in correctly? nothin loose? have you tightened down the headers after runnin it? double checked your timing?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgranch Posted July 11, 2006 Share Posted July 11, 2006 You have a real tough problem here. JDM engines are different than their American cousins. However you stated that you only used the short block and the heads. These parts are the same. You replaced all the sensors with the old ones and all the intake and injectors with the old ones. Without being able to stand over the engine myself, my guess would be that there is damage to one of the wires to an injector. It also could be a distributor issue. Not out of time, but a problem with the pick up. For those JDM experts in the forum, Nissan did not pull a Ford 302 type joke on the world did they?? Ford swapped the firing order on their 302 depending on if it was going into a truck or into a car. The swap only effected the 5/6 cylinders and the engine would run but not idle. If you changed the plug wires them everything was fine. Since Casey T did not indicate a need for a oil pan change, I am presuming that this is a Pathy JDM engine. 88 or precise1 or someone fix my thinking please Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 11, 2006 Share Posted July 11, 2006 Sheesh, put me on the spot why don't you... Actually, I know very little about the JDM motors. People have had minor issues with some if they were out of a Maxima or something so yes, perhaps this motor was out of a Pathy or perhaps a Hardbody. I've not heard of anyone having timing or firing order problems before, but it's not like I know it all.... Unfortunately, Casey's problems have gotten to the point where you need to be there with the truck. Hmm, fuel pressure ??? Leaking injectors ? Bad injector/wire ? Dizzy issue ? You just have to play with things now... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted July 12, 2006 Author Share Posted July 12, 2006 looked like a Maxima intake... stripped it down and from the heads up its my old motor. Oil pan and pick up had to be swapped. going to find the old cap now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted July 12, 2006 Author Share Posted July 12, 2006 3 and 6 are swapped on the top of the cap... but inside it goes 1,2,3,4,5,6.... Of course that would have been to easy..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgranch Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 Since you are working with a car JDM and not a Pathy JDM the possibilities are many. Hopefully your "discovery" regarding the cap and firing order is a clue to help. I agree with Precise1 that to be real help someone needs to hanging over the motor. However based on your discription I am guess that 2 cylinders are firing out of order. The cylinders would have to be close to each other so do not look for the 2-4 combinations. See the problem is I know that they cut the cams different for the Maxima than for the Pathy. This was done because they wanted differnt torque/HP curves based on what the vehicles were suppose to be used for. So what I do not know is did they also change the firing order??? If you get stuck take the valve covers off and slowly rotate the motor by hand and watch for both valves on a cylinder to close. That will be the compression stroke. By watching teh valves you can figure out what the firing order is on teh exact motor you have. Keep the forum posted on the outcome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 lgranch, you sure about the cams? Everything I've looked at for US Maxima/Pathy/300ZX VG30E's say the cams are ALL the same. I don't see why they would change the firing order. Here's an idea. When you put the timing belt on, was it all in line at TDC? If the crank was off by one tooth it may do exactly what you're describing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgranch Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 88 I do not know if they changed the firing order I was just suggesting that it was a place to look. I know I have been "stupid" late in a rebuild and have switched wires by being unable to count to 6. Your suggestion of being off a tooth is also possible. The issue about the cams being cut different I am 80% sure on. I have had the understanding that the duration and the lift is different between the passenger cars and the Pathy/Hardbody. Are there not different torque horsepower curves for the Maxima and the Pathy? The Maxima is the area of less knowledge for me. This is something I would like to correct in my understanding. Can you direct me to torque/RPM outputs for the various VG30 applications? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted July 12, 2006 Author Share Posted July 12, 2006 I am 100% positive on the timing belt... I can dig back in there again if needed. I did play with moving the distributor and if i turn it all the way counter clock wise it kills the motor, the 95 just gets a delayed reaction from when you hit the gas.... I used a borrowed light to set the timing.( I will see if I can get it again for a longer time period). Its 15' BTC..... Pulled all the plugs they appear normal. Pulled individual plug wires at the distributor, all spark and no difference in the way the motor runs... Atleast not that I could tell... rotor looks like it is arcing off of the last 1/16 of an inch of the trailing end.. I am waiting on a new O2 sensor..... When the timing belt slipped could the motor have blown gunk and fouled the O2 sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
513yj Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 usually not idling means 2 things, not enough fuel pressure or vacuum leak city. first thing i'd do is fuel pressure test, then compression test it so you get a better idea if the timing belt is off or not. it won't be the same compression if it is, although i have seen it where the cam lobes were torn off too and it had compression cause the valves weren't opening. you still could have compression if it's only one tooth off, but usually it will not be proper. if all this works fine then get a rubber hose and start listening around all the hoses and gasket mounting surfaces for air leaks, it will be a hissing sound. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 I thought timing was supposed to be 12 degrees BTDC. *shrug* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted July 13, 2006 Author Share Posted July 13, 2006 Everyone sitting down???? -bounce- -bounce- Upon closer inspection of the rotor and the good ol comparison(its nice having 2 sometimes)... The rotor was indicating that the spark was arcing off of the trailing edge. The timing light was showing that the some how I was off by about 30'.... Pulled the distributor up repositioned the rotor... It was dead nuts according to the book.... Pieced it back together..... VAROOOOOMMMM!!!!!!!! Now I got a nasty KNOCK. Ill try some Slick 50 on it tomorrow.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 when the pathy is cold and you start it. put yer hand on the oil pan........ feel fo knock..... cuz we already got the top end covered today........ hopefully..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 Good about catching that the dizzy was off, your description of the rotor was a good clue. BAD about the knock though !! :o B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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