ninoj Posted June 13, 2006 Share Posted June 13, 2006 (edited) The car sometimes won't start. I try to start it but it seems like it is going to start, then misfires a bit and just keeps cranking over. If I try to restart it immediately it won't go, but if I wait 5 minutes or so, it starts bang on. Anyone have an idea what it could be? I tried using a different key in case the other key was enabling the immobilizer but it happens with both keys. I also tried using a much more powerful battery but the problem is still there. I have also changed the spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor with no luck. **EDIT** Well now it does not start at all. I was reading other posts and some say its the dirstibutor. **EDIT** I added a video for you to see what I am experiencing. Please watch! UPDATE: The problem was fixed! It seems like the EGI Relay went bad. The dealer kindly found the problem and switched the relay with the keyless relay to verifiy the problem was resolved without having to replace any parts. I will have to get a new relay because now the keyless entry won't work as the problem is confirmed fixed. Edited July 24, 2006 by ninoj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted June 13, 2006 Share Posted June 13, 2006 Couple of questions for you to try to narrow down the possibilities here.... - How many miles are on it? - Has the fuel filter ever been changed to your knowledge? - At what RPM does your engine idle at when it is in gear with your foot on the brake? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninoj Posted June 13, 2006 Author Share Posted June 13, 2006 Couple of questions for you to try to narrow down the possibilities here.... - How many miles are on it? - Has the fuel filter ever been changed to your knowledge? - At what RPM does your engine idle at when it is in gear with your foot on the brake? It has about 93K on it, I also changed the fuel filter with the spark plugs. Also it idles at 700 rpm. The funny thing is when it idels with my foot on the brake I can hear it sort of oscillating but it does not affect the rpms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted June 13, 2006 Share Posted June 13, 2006 Hmm....your idle is a little low but still in the acceptable range....that rules out IAC valve.... It sounds to me like it's more of an air or fuel delivery problem than an ignition related problem. Check the air filter - if dirty, replace. Check and clean the throttle body - use a throttle body cleaner and an old toothbrush, don't worry, the gunk that falls into your intake manifold will just burn up. If those don't help, do a Seafoam treatment. Pour a full can into your gas tank next time you fill up from empty. Run 1/3 of a can through your brake booster line into your intake manifold and reattach the booster line, then hold the engine at appx 2000-2500rpm until the smoke stops. Consult the instructions on the can for more info. That should clear out any buildup in your engine. If none of that helps, make sure the fuel pump is priming the engine properly at start up. After the car has been sitting for a couple hours or so, sit under it by the fuel tank, and have a helper turn the key to the On position, but not start the engine. You should hear the pump kick on and pump fuel to the engine before it starts. There are a couple other ways to play around with this....before you start your vehicle, hold the key in the On position for a few seconds, see if it starts properly. Then, after it has sat for a while without running, go and immediatly turn the key to start without pausing at On. Does it miss and die? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninoj Posted June 13, 2006 Author Share Posted June 13, 2006 Thanks for the detailed reply, and it does miss and die. How did you know that? The air filter is also new. I will clean the throttle body tomorrow morning. I was wondering what a Seafoam treatment is? I will also try the fuel pump test you reccomended. I do appreciate the help. I've been trying to figure this out for months! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted June 13, 2006 Share Posted June 13, 2006 Something similar happens to mine, which is caused by the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) sticking and not opening the throttle body. I'll start the truck, and it'll promptly die (however, there is no miss). Seafoam is an engine cleaner fluid that you can get at any auto parts store like AutoZone or the like. It cleans all the gunk and goo and crud that has built up in your engine over time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninoj Posted June 13, 2006 Author Share Posted June 13, 2006 Very cool! Mine does not die really, when cranking it will miss and then just keep cranking over and over. It will get soooo close to starting then it wont start until I come back after 5 minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted June 13, 2006 Share Posted June 13, 2006 Oh, so it won't start? Does tapping on the starter help while you're experiencing this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted June 13, 2006 Share Posted June 13, 2006 any ECU codes? jiggle plug wires? you changed some parts.. was that before it was not starting or since? is the problem cold or hot?(engine) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninoj Posted June 13, 2006 Author Share Posted June 13, 2006 (edited) any ECU codes? jiggle plug wires? you changed some parts.. was that before it was not starting or since? is the problem cold or hot?(engine) I changed all these parts after experiencing this problem. There is an ECU code for Intake Air Temperature Sensor. The engine could be hot or cold, it doesn't matter. Edited June 13, 2006 by ninoj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninoj Posted June 13, 2006 Author Share Posted June 13, 2006 Oh, so it won't start? Does tapping on the starter help while you're experiencing this? Where is the starter located? I will try tapping on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted June 13, 2006 Share Posted June 13, 2006 Big thing on the drivers side, bottom of the engine at the back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmorgan4 Posted June 13, 2006 Share Posted June 13, 2006 Wouldn't tapping the starter only help if it's not turning over at all? sly Sounds to me like it's an air or fuel problem. I don't think the IAT sensor does anything while the electrical system is in "open loop" at startup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted June 13, 2006 Share Posted June 13, 2006 timing? and lastly right now, injectors? it's not the starter since it cranks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted June 13, 2006 Share Posted June 13, 2006 (edited) Get a cheap fuel pressure gauge and check your fuel pressure when cranking, then after, while it sits. Maybe a fuel pump issue, maybe a pressure regulator issue. Edited June 13, 2006 by 5523Pathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninoj Posted June 14, 2006 Author Share Posted June 14, 2006 Get a cheap fuel pressure gauge and check your fuel pressure when cranking, then after, while it sits. Maybe a fuel pump issue, maybe a pressure regulator issue. I will give this a go tomorrow morning. What should the pressure be around for a proper reading? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninoj Posted June 14, 2006 Author Share Posted June 14, 2006 timing? and lastly right now, injectors? it's not the starter since it cranks. I know the timing belt is coming up to be changed in 6K. As far as the injectors, I don't know how to check those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted June 14, 2006 Share Posted June 14, 2006 First what I would do is install the gauge and turn the key on. See how high gauge goes and write it down. Then, turn the key off and let it sit. See how fast it looses pressure. If it drops quickly from about 45psi to almost no pressure, you probably have a fuel pump bleeing back into the tank. If it does hold pressure, then start your engine. At idle, your fuel pressure should be 34psi with the pressure regulator vacuum line attached and 43psi with the vacuum line disconnected. The last thing you can do is turn on the key and bulid pressure, pinch both fuel feed and return lines and see if you loose pressure. If you do loose pressure you may have a injector sticking open or a regulator not holding pressure. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninoj Posted June 16, 2006 Author Share Posted June 16, 2006 First what I would do is install the gauge and turn the key on. See how high gauge goes and write it down. Then, turn the key off and let it sit. See how fast it looses pressure. If it drops quickly from about 45psi to almost no pressure, you probably have a fuel pump bleeing back into the tank. If it does hold pressure, then start your engine. At idle, your fuel pressure should be 34psi with the pressure regulator vacuum line attached and 43psi with the vacuum line disconnected. The last thing you can do is turn on the key and bulid pressure, pinch both fuel feed and return lines and see if you loose pressure. If you do loose pressure you may have a injector sticking open or a regulator not holding pressure. Hope this helps. Where do I install the gauge? Please post a pic if you can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninoj Posted June 19, 2006 Author Share Posted June 19, 2006 I see the supply and return lines on the passenger side of the car but I can't see anywhere i can connect the gauge. Can anyone help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninoj Posted June 20, 2006 Author Share Posted June 20, 2006 I cut the supply line in half and checked the pressure, it was bang on. I then started the car and the pressure was correct as well. When I shut the car off I lost no pressure as well. This is so weird, I would love some feedback on this one. It really boggles my mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted June 20, 2006 Share Posted June 20, 2006 Hmm.... I would be inclined to say Fuel Pump, FPR, or maybe Ignition? Do you have spark on all your cylinders? How does your cap & rotor look? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninoj Posted June 20, 2006 Author Share Posted June 20, 2006 Cap and rotor are brand new, I replaced them and I am still having this problem. Where in the ignition would you say the problem is? It's also stalled a few times as well when I was driving and came to a stop or was braking just before coming to a stop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted June 20, 2006 Share Posted June 20, 2006 Well...in order for an engine to run, it needs three things....air, fuel and spark. If it's not getting the proper amount of any of those, it wont run. As far as checking air, look for vaccuum leaks, damage to the throttle body or IACV, bad MAF, etc. As far as checking for fuel, look at the fuel pressure (done), lines (done), filter (done) and injectors to make sure they're not clogged or malfunctioning in one way or the other Checking for spark - cap & rotor (done), spark plugs, wires, ignition module. Also, check your timing, it may be off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninoj Posted June 21, 2006 Author Share Posted June 21, 2006 I spoke to a friend of mine he thinks its the crank sensor gone bad, could this be a possibility? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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