88 pathfinder no spark

[513yj]

ok so here goes, this is my first nissan (jeeper) and i got it for nothing to bomb around in while the gas chrisis rages(drive a chevy 1 ton 10mpg) this is an 88 pathy and it had

no spark when i got it. the po replaced the coil which was split. i tested it off and from the coil wire end to the terminals and get 9.76 in the 20k ohm section on my meter is this right? i have some voltage at the dist, and can't remember what it was right now but one plug in was like 11-12 and the other plug in was like 3-5. where do i start? i am lost without any manual but can't get one till tuesday. the module before the coil has power on both sides is this right? and how much should each one be if that is right?

not really sure what to check and what the specs are supposed to be so any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

[513yj]

basically i'm looking for the most common thing and then go from there.

[88pathoffroad]

The power transistor has probably gone out, but I wouldn't rule out wiring issues either. The power transistor is the little module dealie on the coil bracket. They run about $110 or so new...

[513yj]

uh oh, there isn't one. all there is is the box before the coil, ign module? that plugs into the coil, but it might be supposed to be attached to the coil? and it might be the power transistor if it plugs into the coil. the wiring looks ok but i could be wrong. the coil high side has 10.8 volts and drops to 8.7 low is .07 and gains to .13 and that is coming out of that box (ign module?, power transistor?) if these numbers are right then i think the coil is shot, also if that box is the transistor it is not grounded out right now, should it be? any clue? none here

[513yj]

those voltage numbers are while trying to start it.

[94extreme]

so are you getting spark at the plugs or not?

 

look for the fusable link.. i am thinking that it might be worth checking it out first since your truck is an 88 and those things do go sometimes on the oldies.

[513yj]

no spark means none, nada, zip, zilch this thing hasn't got any spark at the coil, let alone the plugs so i think there is something botched at the coil or that transistor thingamabobberdoodlehickey i don't know what the specs are for voltage but i posted what i have earlier, i looked for fusable links and don't see any at the bat or by the box on the pass fender either. probably gonna try that module if the power figures are wrong. oh yea it also is firing the injectors and the bat is fully charged . need coil power and then i can tell if the plug wires are firing too.

[GrimGreg]

The fuseables are just wires inline from the positive battery terminal.

[88pathoffroad]

The power transistor should be grounded, yes.

 

Testing procedure:

 

1. Disconnect main wiring harnesses for both the coil and the power transistor. Leave the t-type connector for the coil plugged in.

 

2. On the power transistor main input power connector, the locking tab should be facing up as you look at it. You should be able to see four tabs inside. They are numbered as follows:

 

TAB ON TOP

1(blue)_______4(black/white)

2(black/pink)__3(white)

 

3. 1 is the coil's 12VDC+. 2 is the feed from the ECU. 3 is to engine ground. 4 is to the coil's 12VDC-.

 

4. Turn the ignition on, but do not start the engine. Test for battery voltage on #1. 12VDC+ should exist.

 

5. Test continuity between terminals 1 or 4 and terminal 3. Positive lead goes on 1 or 4, negative on 3. There should be no continuity.

 

6. Test continuity between terminals 1 or 4 and terminal 3 again, but the positive lead goes on 3. Negative goes on 1 or 4. There should be continuity.

 

7. Test continuity between terminals 1 or 4 and terminal 2. Positive lead goes on 1 or 4, negative on 2. There should be no continuity.

 

8. Test continuity between terminals 1 or 4 and terminal 2 again, but the positive lead goes on 2. Negative goes on 1 or 4. There should be continuity.

 

9. Test continuity between 3 and engine ground. There should be continuity.

 

If you have no continuity where you should have it, the power transistor should be replaced. I can't find the exact testing procedure for the coil, but there should be continuity between the + and - terminals and NOT between either one of those and the coil wire output, nor the grounded base of the coil. Hope that helps.

[513yj]

went fishing over the weekend and mon, shop owners benefits so i didn't get this till now. when yar talking about the continuity test with power on or off? i know you can't test it with power on so i am assuming off? or were you saying to test the plug going into the p.t. with it unplugged for power and test the p.t. unplugged? i got cont with it unplugged on #4 when i'm not supposed to i think. i ordered a new one from carquest and it should be here today and i'll test the two and compare, but i'll let ya know how it all works out. thanks for all the help so far and ya probably will hear more from me as it is around 200,000 miles and unless gas goes down to 1.50 a gal i'm gonna drive it till the wheels fall off if i can get it running.

[513yj]

i slinnged on a new p.t. ign mod as it is in parts store land and the thing fired right up slow revving right now but the brakes are rusty and need cleaning and the gas is 2 or 3 yrs old so i dumped in 2 gals to dilute since the light was on and it was pretty empty. the dist cap was only held on by one screw and the prongs were bent so i straightened them and it ran so a healthy tune up i think were cookin with charcoal (gas sucks). but thanks again for the info and it was very helpful and right on, so with my m-m alls it took was 10 minutes testing and labor now its golden.

[88pathoffroad]

Hey, very nice! Glad you got 'er running again.

[Precise1]

I love a happy ending !!

 

B

[94extreme]

:cool2: