Mr. Pickles Posted March 16, 2006 Share Posted March 16, 2006 I put it in over the weekend. All went well, except for it being a pain to split the 3rd member from the axle. It just wouldn't let go after a pulling, pushing, BFH, crowbar, jack, etc. Finally had to work in an old putty knive all the way around to break the gasket loose. Luckily, I was careful enough to do no damage. Other than that, I couldn't really add anything that hasn't been covered on these 2 sites: Lockright install #1 Lockright install #2 It's good so far. Gonna take a little bit to get used to the few new jerks and sounds, but nothing bad. The main thing is just being gentle in low speed and tight turns. I've barked the inside tire a few times now, mainly trying to pull out into traffic on busy roads. sssh All in all, I'd say most anybody could handle this install with basic tools and some patience. It sounds much tougher than it really is. Now I can't wait to get it off road, as I've only taken it to a construction site and gravel parking lot so far. Fun! sly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted March 16, 2006 Share Posted March 16, 2006 It smooths out after a while, don't worry. Wait till it pops and scares you coasting around a corner... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuong Nguyen Posted March 16, 2006 Share Posted March 16, 2006 congrats! You'll love it like all of us did! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted March 16, 2006 Share Posted March 16, 2006 -bounce- congratulations!! :cool2: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted March 16, 2006 Share Posted March 16, 2006 Congrats Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted March 16, 2006 Author Share Posted March 16, 2006 It smooths out after a while, don't worry. Wait till it pops and scares you coasting around a corner... Yeah, already did that. :o I'd heard to expect that, but it still makes you grit your teeth for a sec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted March 16, 2006 Share Posted March 16, 2006 How does the LockRight behave on ice and snow? I plan to add, but that has been a question in my mind. If I understand the operation correctly, it would seem that the diff would pretty much stay locked all the time? Or does it release so easily that it can release around corners even on really slick surfaces? Not a bad thing one way or the other, just a thing to factor into my driving style. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordsho90 Posted March 16, 2006 Share Posted March 16, 2006 :cool2: Mr. pickles how many hours did it take you overall? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted March 17, 2006 Share Posted March 17, 2006 How does the LockRight behave on ice and snow? I plan to add, but that has been a question in my mind. If I understand the operation correctly, it would seem that the diff would pretty much stay locked all the time? Or does it release so easily that it can release around corners even on really slick surfaces? Not a bad thing one way or the other, just a thing to factor into my driving style. Lock-Rights are torque-lockers. If you let off the gas, the driveshaft slows down, torque drops off and allows the locker's parts to disengage from the side gears. You now have a normal open diff. The locker is "relaxed". When the driveshaft spins faster and applies torque to the differential, the locker parts start to twist and lever the locking rings into the side gears, effectively locking the differential gears together. Around corners it'll unlock fine, even in snow. You have to be real careful though, cause there is NO slip with a locker(obviously) and any incline or slight hill will send you sideways, regardless of where you steer it. 'Course with no locker, you'd just spin one tire and not go anywhere at all. Once I got high-centered on a sand dune and it just sat there lazily spinning one tire unlocked, clicking away...had to use the brake AND gas to lock it up and spin both tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted March 17, 2006 Author Share Posted March 17, 2006 :cool2: Mr. pickles how many hours did it take you overall? I took many breaks, and from what I've heard, my troubles getting it out of the axle are not normal. But what is normal for me? Excluding wasted time and stuff, going straight through with no issues, I'd say 3-4 hours. Mind you, I did most of the dissassembly/reassembly, other than the lifting and grunt work, by myself. As for the ice questions, I'd go to 88 on that. We rarely get ice out here on the "left" coast, so it wasn't much of a concern for me. About the only time I'd run into frozen stuff is the very occassional local snow or going skiing, and even then most of the time they plow and clear the roads. I've only driven it a bit so far, on dry pavement, dirt and gravel. That said, it is fairly easy to break a tire loose when under power around corners and stuff, so I can see where that might be an issue for some people. But you probably just need to adjust your driving style a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordsho90 Posted March 17, 2006 Share Posted March 17, 2006 thanks Mr. Pickles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted March 18, 2006 Author Share Posted March 18, 2006 Oh, there's one more disclaimer: if you use the recommended high temp RTV to replace the gasket, you'll need to plan 24 hours drying time before putting in the gear oil. No biggie though. I went that route, cause the local stealer didn't have a stock gasket for the diff in stock, and said it would take a week to order one. So just plan around it. Either get the gasket ahead of time, or maybe install the locker say on a Sat. morning, then let it dry till Sunday evening before putting in the oil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted March 18, 2006 Share Posted March 18, 2006 I didn't. Just clean off both surfaces, apply some silicone to each, then let 'em sit for 15 minutes or so to get tacky. Then reassemble but don't torque the bolts, just get them hand-tight. After another hour or so, torque all bolts and fill. Mine hasn't leaked a drop and that's how I did it. About driving on ice: don't. That's about all I can tell you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted March 18, 2006 Author Share Posted March 18, 2006 I didn't. Just clean off both surfaces, apply some silicone to each, then let 'em sit for 15 minutes or so to get tacky. Then reassemble but don't torque the bolts, just get them hand-tight. After another hour or so, torque all bolts and fill. Mine hasn't leaked a drop and that's how I did it. About driving on ice: don't. That's about all I can tell you. Fair enough, I figured it wouldn't be a problem probably. But I had the time, and figured what the hey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted March 22, 2006 Share Posted March 22, 2006 Ahh.... thanks for the clarification on how they engage, Aaron. I was not understanding completely... I was thinking they were engaged until there was back tension on one side with minimal to no input on the pinion. If they need torque input before actually engaging, that changes my understanding. And makes sense. So if the entire axle is in the air and one tire is spun, it should act like an open diff, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted March 22, 2006 Share Posted March 22, 2006 Yep, it'll go click-click-click-click-click until you stop spinning it. Pics! The locker replaces all 4 spider gears with two side plates that lock into the side gears when the cross-shaft forces them outwards. The plates are spring-loaded with pins that keep them aligned when it's not locked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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