ILoveMyPatty Posted February 19, 2006 Share Posted February 19, 2006 Okay everyone, so my mountain bike is soon to be sold, and I'll have some money to spend on my Pathy. First will be a 3" body lift, followed by a Flowmaster 50. Next will be the JGC coil and UCA upgrade. With the JGC and UCA lift, what will I be facing (post cost wise). After the coils and UCAs are in, what will I have to do? A wheel alignment, right? Anything else? I can't use the search function... Well, I can, but it takes a long long time, and I never can find results. Anyone think the order of upgrades should be changed? Flowmaster after the BL, so all of the piping can be protected by the frame, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted February 19, 2006 Share Posted February 19, 2006 my UCA's cost $175, new Ranchos for the rear $90, new ball joints (optional) about $90-100 (all four from autozone), alignment around $140 (firestone lifetime), longer spindle bolts $0 cuz I couldn't freakin find any, uh maybe some heaater hose about $5, oh yeh the JGC coils $40 from the JY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filthy Luker Posted February 19, 2006 Share Posted February 19, 2006 Make sure you get a proper steering system, either L&P Performance or Calmini. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted February 19, 2006 Share Posted February 19, 2006 The BL might give you a little more room when installing the Flowmaster, but I think you could do it in reverse order w/o problems (I don't have a BL, but IIRC the exhaust system hangs off the frame not the body, so no big change there). Although it's recommended that you get an alignment after installing the new UCA's, you might not really need one. For me, I guess it worked out that once I cranked the T'bars up it brought the top of the wheels in so they were back in line. It tracked and braked straight and I never had any problems w/ uneven tire wear at all (I lifted the front about 2"-2.5"). If you need one, a standard alignment is around $50. Click here for the UCA bushing removal technique that I used. It worked really well. Also, be sure to grab a bottle of blue Locktite frorm the auto parts store for the UCA spindle bolts and upper BJ bolts. You don't want them suckers vibrating loose on you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveMyPatty Posted February 19, 2006 Author Share Posted February 19, 2006 Make sure you get a proper steering system, either L&P Performance or Calmini. I'm going to need a steering upgrade with the JGC&UCA lift? I was going to keep the 31x10.50s on, I thought you only needed the steering upgrade if you were getting bigger tires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filthy Luker Posted February 19, 2006 Share Posted February 19, 2006 You will need a steering system upgrade as soon as you lift up the front end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveMyPatty Posted February 19, 2006 Author Share Posted February 19, 2006 Dangit... and thats like $800USD right? Sounds like I'm going to be going with just a body lift and flowmaster then... For the time being.. of course Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filthy Luker Posted February 19, 2006 Share Posted February 19, 2006 I see you obviously checked the pricing for the TWO steering system upgrades I listed. -thnkboutit- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveMyPatty Posted February 20, 2006 Author Share Posted February 20, 2006 Would I be better off getting the $539 Calmini system, or getting the parts from L&P? I don't really understand the whole steering system stuff right now... I can't seem to grasp it. Through L&P I would be ordering everything they have to offer? Their Centerlink, Pitman and Idler arm, and Idler arm brace? The centerlink is $250... (or $100 off if you send in your old one?) Idler arm brace $25 Pitman and Idler arm $120. That totals $395+$30 S&H. Would I be better off getting the Calmini kit? Does the difference in quality (if any) make the Calmini a better investment? I don't really understand all of this so, please bare with me here (if possible) hah. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted February 20, 2006 Share Posted February 20, 2006 Basically, the only part you really will NEED is the upgraded CL from L&P. $250 +$100 Core charge. If you don't send them back your old one, you pay the full $350. From what I've heard, worth every penny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted February 20, 2006 Share Posted February 20, 2006 You will need a steering system upgrade as soon as you lift up the front end. As long as you keep to dirt roads and mild trails your stock CL should be fine. I lifted mine and used the stock CL for over a year. Then I ran it through a practice course this UROC driver set up on his property and twisted it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveMyPatty Posted February 21, 2006 Author Share Posted February 21, 2006 Basically, the only part you really will NEED is the upgraded CL from L&P. $250 +$100 Core charge. If you don't send them back your old one, you pay the full $350. From what I've heard, worth every penny. Sweet! So all I need is an aftermarket centerlink... How are they to install? I have like... no experience working on vehicles. I can wire lights and toggles in, drill holes, and screw nuts on bolts, haha. I'm planning on tackling this whole JGC lift with a friend that is in a college level mechanics course. Hopefully we can get 'er completed without any problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kn0xville Posted February 21, 2006 Share Posted February 21, 2006 (edited) i recommend the CL and the idler arm personally. But for installing, EASY! everything goes on the same way it comes off, which isnt very hard. The rear springs, also VERY easy, i recommend a spring compressor though, rent one from a local parts store. THe front UCAs can get a little tricky if you dont have new mounting rods already attached to the UCA. other than that.. not to hard to do. I havent done a BL yet, so cant tell ya. but ya, you can do everything on your own with some basic tools, im not the handiest guy when doing anything mechanical, but ive done it all myself in no time at all. oh!.. if you go with L&P, you'll be doing some drilling if you dont go with the new IA and PA. And when you cant get your TREs to come out, remember a big hammer and a couple good whacks on the knuckle (not the TRE) will pop em right out. Edited February 21, 2006 by Kn0xville Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveMyPatty Posted February 22, 2006 Author Share Posted February 22, 2006 Excellent. Sound like I should be fine then. Thanks alot everyone. Only thing I'm not looking forward to is the body lift. It sounds like a pain, to some people. Re-locating the bumpers is gonna be tough for me, if the kit doesn't come with brackets (I don't know how to weld... and we only have a like 10+ year old arc/stick welder).... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 The body lift isn't that big of a deal. I did it alone, and it went ok mostly. Nobody seems to have run into the relatively minor issues I did. The kit does come with bumper brackets, but they are kinda cheesy and a PITA to install. Not the end of the world though, and an extra set of hands there would help (doing it alone, holding the bumper while installing the brackets and bolts with the other hand, is not recommended if you value your sanity). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveMyPatty Posted February 23, 2006 Author Share Posted February 23, 2006 is not recommended if you value your sanity). Hahahahaha I know what ya mean. I'll have another set of hands there, so it should be easier... I wonder if I could possibly use the brackets as a jig or whatever, to make beefier ones out of some steel in our shop? I was looking at our welder and it said some certain stick is used for cutting steel with it... So Maybe.. I dono... I'd probably blow something up, or burn my finger off... drop some molten metal on my shoe... y'know, fun stuff And you're talking about the Performance Acessories BL, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
govols74n Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 HahahahahaI know what ya mean. I'll have another set of hands there, so it should be easier... I wonder if I could possibly use the brackets as a jig or whatever, to make beefier ones out of some steel in our shop? I was looking at our welder and it said some certain stick is used for cutting steel with it... So Maybe.. I dono... I'd probably blow something up, or burn my finger off... drop some molten metal on my shoe... y'know, fun stuff And you're talking about the Performance Acessories BL, right? some more advise STAY AWAY FROM HOT OBJECTS AND OPEN FLAMES lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveMyPatty Posted February 23, 2006 Author Share Posted February 23, 2006 Haha, yeah.. Oh hey, my pathy sags REALLY bad... the rear end is super soft, when two people sit on it, or one even, it sags about 3".. Is that just old coils, or old shocks.. or both? I see alot of people use the RS9000X in the rear, and the RS5000 in the front, what is the advantage of the 9000s in the rear? Oh and, I can put on new shocks right now, and use the same ones when I lift it, yes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 Haha, yeah.. Oh hey, my pathy sags REALLY bad... the rear end is super soft, when two people sit on it, or one even, it sags about 3".. Is that just old coils, or old shocks.. or both?I see alot of people use the RS9000X in the rear, and the RS5000 in the front, what is the advantage of the 9000s in the rear? Oh and, I can put on new shocks right now, and use the same ones when I lift it, yes? First off on the steering subject, the L&P CL is a great piece to start with. It only gets stronger from there with the upgraded idler arm and brace, and if you haven't yet, add a steering stabilizer for even better control. To install the L&P centerlink, you will need to drill your idler arm and pitman arm straight through (drillpress style) so the bolt won't move when you bolt on the new CL. Some people take theirs off and take them to a metal fabrication shop for that, others just get a bench vise and drill and carefully drill it out. 1. Sounds like saggy coils to me. Is there already a lot of junk in your trunk? Clean out your Pathy! 2. I just so happened to find a pair of rear RS9000's in the junkyard, so I still have my old 5000's in front. That's my story. I dunno about anyone else. 3. For the front, yes. In the rear, if you want more flex than stock you'll want slightly longer shocks. If not, then stock size is fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 By the way, here's a pic of the complete L&P steering system, except for the idler arm brace. I made that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveMyPatty Posted February 24, 2006 Author Share Posted February 24, 2006 88, there is nothing in my trunk except for a jug of windshield washer fluid, two small boxes for my 6x9's, and a 15lb or so portable power center. And the rear tire carrier too.. Sounds good, I'll get the centerlink after I do the JGC/UCA lift. I'll keep my 31" All Terrains on it, and then when I want to get 33's I'll go for the complete sterring upgrade, with the IA and brace, and PA. This is a pretty stupid question but.. how do steering stabilizers work...? heh... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted February 24, 2006 Share Posted February 24, 2006 They dampen movement in both directions equally, so it absorbs sudden shocks from the steering and helps keep the wheel from jerking around when you hit potholes, logs, trees, rocks, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveMyPatty Posted February 24, 2006 Author Share Posted February 24, 2006 Oooooh! I need that. My road is absolutely insane for potholes/washboard... damn dirt roads that aren't maintained properly... Gah, BC Highways crews... How are they, installation wise? Simple? Complicated? How much do they run, and what would be a good brand? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted February 24, 2006 Share Posted February 24, 2006 Go look in the How-To forum at the steering stabilizer install thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now