IndianRider Posted February 3, 2006 Share Posted February 3, 2006 (edited) ............................................................................................................................. Edited August 17, 2009 by 94extreme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuismO Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 or id really appreciate it if anyone can scan the front rotor removal pages from a service manual and email it to me or post a parts diagram on here ..just want to see how its assembled .. thanks a lot .. my email is drvijay007@hotmail.com http://www.nissan-techinfo.com/Nissan/refg...thfinder/FA.PDF there ya go =) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revgolem Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 Just so you know... I'm sure the new rotors will be better than the ones you have, but I have never seen a new rotor that wasn't warped to at least some degree right off of the shelf. Just thought i'd throw that out there so you wouldn't be caught off guard if there's still some pulsation when breaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ Dank Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 My Brembo cross drilled rotors for my pathy didn't seem warped off the shelf. I've had them for 2 years now and they've been incredible since day 1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 Below are links to some more pics that might help you. Note: since removing the rotor requires removal of the hub assembly, you might as well plan to do a bearing repack while you're at it. You will need new inner bearing grease seals. (There's one per hub.) Removing the outer hubs (ignore steps describing installation of manual hubs): http://www.xplorx4.com/pathfinder/upgrades/warnhubs/ Removing the entire hub assembly: http://www.xplorx4.com/pathfinder/upgrades/hub_replacement/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IndianRider Posted February 4, 2006 Author Share Posted February 4, 2006 thanks a lot for the links .. yeah looks like its better to go ahead and replace the bearings too coz ur in there .. snowing bad here might get to it next week though .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IndianRider Posted February 4, 2006 Author Share Posted February 4, 2006 Below are links to some more pics that might help you. Note: since removing the rotor requires removal of the hub assembly, you might as well plan to do a bearing repack while you're at it. You will need new inner bearing grease seals. (There's one per hub.) Removing the outer hubs (ignore steps describing installation of manual hubs): http://www.xplorx4.com/pathfinder/upgrades/warnhubs/ Removing the entire hub assembly: http://www.xplorx4.com/pathfinder/upgrades/hub_replacement/ thanks for the detailed pic .. so why did u install the manual locakable hubs ? when u leave it in OFF in 2 high mode, does it get u better gas meilage ? and then u cant shift on the fly anymore if u leave ur hubs unlocked right ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 My Brembo cross drilled rotors for my pathy didn't seem warped off the shelf. I've had them for 2 years now and they've been incredible since day 1. [PostJack] DJ, where'd you get CD Brembos? How have they been? Did you notice any difference in braking? [PostJack] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 thanks for the detailed pic .. so why did u install the manual locakable hubs ? when u leave it in OFF in 2 high mode, does it get u better gas meilage ? and then u cant shift on the fly anymore if u leave ur hubs unlocked right ?? I installed mine because of my lift and to alleviate wear on the front half-shafts. I also noticed a VERY SLIGHT (~1-1.5mpg) increase in fuel economy, with the hubs unlocked. That's due to less rotational inertia in the drivetrian, so less drivetrain power loss as the front drivetrain isn't spinning with the wheels. You are correct, you cannot shift into 4wd on-the-fly with the hubs unlocked. Well, you COULD, but you wouldn't go anywhere, because the front wheels would be disconnected from the drivetrain. I actaully made that mistake at Corolla, NC once. We drove down the peninsula about 40 miles one day, so I aired the tires back up and unlocked the hubs. Then when I got back to the beach, I forgot to lock in the hubs, cuz I forgot that I had unlocked them, and assumed they were still locked. Well, the truck drove just like it did in 2WD, but with the front drivetrain spinning freely in the hubs. D'oh! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trialsin26 Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 DJ I second that where did you get the cross drilled rotors. I'm about to do the front and rear, etc and would like to upgrade the rotors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ Dank Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 (edited) [PostJack] DJ, where'd you get CD Brembos? How have they been? Did you notice any difference in braking? [PostJack] Dan, I got the CD Brembos off Ebay about 2 years ago. The seller was selling tons of them and had a deal on them. I can't remember the exact price but I remember them being in the $200 range including a set of PBR Metal master pads. I'm due for a pad change however as my brakes have started squealing. Any difference in braking? Night and day! Going from ceramic pads and oem rotors, you can really notice a difference. Primarily, the absence of brake fade. On steep decents, where you are really working your brakes, pretty much riding them, they perform AWESOME. :bow: The braking power is incredible especially when having to make a quick high speed sudden stop like when someone runs a red light or stop sign... sly Edited February 4, 2006 by DJ Dank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 Great. I'm going to be needing new rotors soon because they've been turned one-too-many times, and the runout is starting to get out of spec again. I'm definitely going to go with those. I notice that I get a TON of brake fade while driving down certain trails (Turtle Trail at Paragon for example, its a 1.8 mile long descent down the side of a mountain), when I get to the bottom, I have to stop and let my brakes cool for like 15-20 minutes. $200 ain't bad considering stock rotors are $50/each. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ Dank Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 Yeah, thats the biggest noticeable difference was no brake fade. I was really easy on them the first 500 miles though to break them in evenly. $200 with the pads shipped is a good deal IMO. Those rotors are HEAVY! I see those pads still on Ebay and I have been happy with them so I'm going to go with them again. The seller recommended the pads to me and told me to stay away from the ceramics with the Brembo's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted February 5, 2006 Share Posted February 5, 2006 I too have CD rotors..which are a no name brand...well the seller will tell you that they are. I do a good mix of in town and HWY driving and I am hard on my truck when it comes to brakes. Cheap Cross Drilled For just over 1000 miles on the truck the rotors have held up well...I did purposely check the brakes fade on the interstate from just over 80 down to just under 40 and no brake fade....I just need now to get my steel lines on and flush the system. I want to know more about the pads that are stopping the best though...my Autozone midgrades suck I think. ..............bearing repack!!! The shop that did my brakes the first time must have used an impact to put the hub lock nut back on...they were tight...too tight. I followed the instructions to seat the new gasket then backed off. For those that have to do this, know that you have to line the little set screws back up to screw them into the lock nut....after repacking and regreaseing and manual hubs...my truck has really gotten better mileage. This is mainly because if you over tighten the lock nut then you are squeezing the whole assembly tight and it can't spin easy. I have no quote on the MPG as I gave up on trying to really save more MPG plus I just haven't been filling the tank all the way up!!! I have a tank now that has gotten a beating withmy style driving and is still producing more miles per tank that I have seen in a long time...make me wonder just how high I can get and just how damn tight the shop had that bearing lock nut!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ Dank Posted February 5, 2006 Share Posted February 5, 2006 (edited) Damn those are cheap...almost TOO cheap... For just over 1000 miles on the truck the rotors have held up well...I did purposely check the brakes fade on the interstate from just over 80 down to just under 40 and no brake fade....I just need now to get my steel lines on and flush the system. I think thats more of a test of braking power and ability...the best way to experience brake fade IMO is to try working your brakes hard over an extended period of time...like a 2 mile steep decent. On stock rotors, the gas builds up between the rotor and pad thus creating the "fade." The gases and heat from the rotors/pads dissapate via the holes on the CD rotors. But the seller is selling those PBR Metal Master brake pads I was talking about...its in that picture with the steel lines and pads. Those brakes rock. Semi-metallic... Edited February 5, 2006 by DJ Dank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filthy Luker Posted February 6, 2006 Share Posted February 6, 2006 Where do you guys pull all this crazy misinformation on brakes from? :confused: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ Dank Posted February 6, 2006 Share Posted February 6, 2006 What misinformation are you talking about? I can find tons of references online talking about gas build-up between rotor and pad which can be alleviated by CD rotors... :confused: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filthy Luker Posted February 6, 2006 Share Posted February 6, 2006 Please do. I love reading technical writeups, you find out quite a bit about what's actually good for your vehicle. Tech docs for me are much more interesting than sales broshures. Seriously if I am wrong I'll admit it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ Dank Posted February 6, 2006 Share Posted February 6, 2006 Well ok let me do some googling... Here are a couple of articles from a quick search... http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/rotors.txt NissanPerformanceMag Although the last link is littered with ads, I found it to be informative... Here's another link..this is was someones science experiment...Hey I learned something new too by reading the article... :idea: Cross Drilled Rotor Experiment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sw Posted February 6, 2006 Share Posted February 6, 2006 (edited) DJ Dank youve had good expirence with metal king pads????? i know of a few mates who put metal king pads on and the pad chew'd out the rotor with in a year or so. interesting when i did my fronts i went slotted, rather than drilled, discs and bendix kevlar 4wd pads. great combo so far. rears need doing and was planning to go the same way. just gotta get the 'secretary of the treasury' ok on the plan...... Edited February 6, 2006 by sw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ Dank Posted February 7, 2006 Share Posted February 7, 2006 DJ Dank youve had good expirence with metal king pads????? i know of a few mates who put metal king pads on and the pad chew'd out the rotor with in a year or so. interesting when i did my fronts i went slotted, rather than drilled, discs and bendix kevlar 4wd pads. great combo so far. rears need doing and was planning to go the same way. just gotta get the 'secretary of the treasury' ok on the plan...... Metal Kings? I'm not familar with those. But the PBR Metal Masters are semi-metallic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sw Posted February 7, 2006 Share Posted February 7, 2006 sorry my stupidity for not reading properly what you actually posted.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trialsin26 Posted February 7, 2006 Share Posted February 7, 2006 What about Power Stop. I was looking at these for a replacement or maybe I will just go with AC's setup. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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