unccpathfinder Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 theres not any grooves on it and it seems that the guy before me replaced the flywheel wehn he did the clutch... you can see where i got it hot a couple times but i didnt know since it was still a smooth surface without grooves if it needed to be resurfaced or what Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 (edited) If it were mine: If it had no detectable grooving or warping at all and the clutch was not chattering or doing anything nasty before I tore it down, I would hit the wear surface with my 3M brake disk sanding kit, clean it well, and put it back in. This sander is a 2" diameter abrasive disk and mandrel that is clamped in a drill. It just breaks the glaze on the disk so the new clutch disk can bed in nicely. If I didn't have the 3M disk, I would grab a random orbital sander with about 120 or 180. Again, just enough to brake the glaze and leave light consistent sanding marks across the entire wear surface. LIGHT pressure only. Yeah there's a small chance the flywheel was warped and the new clutch will chatter and groan and I'll have to tear it all back down and have it turned, but it is a small chance and I have more spare time than spare money. So I'd rather chance wasting time than spend money... Edited January 12, 2006 by mws Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sw Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 if your throwing in a new clutch, resurface the fly wheel - NO ifs, buts or maybes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 Well, that settles it, ehh? Seriously, it is a judgement call. Time vs money, you need to make your call. If you absolutely don't want to do it again, resurface. If you don't mind a possibility of repeat, break glaze and go for it. But if you do resurface it, PLEASE have it done by a reputable shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sw Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 (edited) for about $30. i really dont think its worth pulling the tranny out agian then puttn that sucker back in. anyone whos chaged a clutch in a fourby would know what im taking about. Edited January 12, 2006 by sw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 I somewhat agree with both of them... If you can sand it VERY lightly and ALL discoloration is PURELY surface level and removable and you have the tools (indicators/etc) and the knowledge to check the flywheel properly then yes, you can reuse it. Ok, that said, yours looks like crap !! Thats more than a little hot, and I see evidence of galling, all of this is not good for the metal and indicates a strong possibility of warpage. I got a quote for turning my flywheel for $50. A remanufactured (read turned) with a new ring gear was $60 with a core charge. No brainer, in went the reman flywheel. They may not want to accept yours as a core; if this happens, clean it up well and try the next store. I would not reuse yours without very careful inspection/having it turned. As sw says, why mess around. I think we all want our clutches to work as well and last as long as possible... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted January 13, 2006 Author Share Posted January 13, 2006 i havent measured to see how worn it is but i do know i didnt have any chatter with my old clutch... to check for warpage could i mount it to a lathe and spin the chuck and visually look for warping or how would this be achieved and since im teaching a sophomore machining class...i havent ever turned flywheels or brake rotors but i dont see where it would be any different than truing it up on the chuck and turn down a couple thousandths of an inch as long as within the spec listed in the book but i guess i could just throw in another $80 and get a new 1...i dont have to worry about cores or anything like that my parts guys are good to me and know if they didnt take it i'd say screw it im going somewhere else... once i was doing a radiator in a camary which the oil cooler line stripped off and he didnt wanna do a defect swap for me and i was like alright i am no longer interested in this radiator i think im going to advance and he was like the new 1 will be here tomorrow This crap is killing my bank tho...i wish i was back home where i get the at cost prices Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 (edited) ito check for warpage could i mount it to a lathe and spin the chuck and visually look for warping or how would this be achieved and since im teaching a sophomore machining class...i havent ever turned flywheels or brake rotors but i dont see where it would be any different than truing it up on the chuck and turn down a couple thousandths of an inch as long as within the spec listed in the book Yes, a lathe is a fantastic way to check for flatness. The only difficult part is getting it chucked up perfectly perpindicular to the face of the lathe, but you should be able to figure it out. then turn it slowly while tracing a dial indicator across. The manual will give maximum allowable specs. And if I were in your shoes, I would be ALL OVER trying it myself! Chuck that baby up and take a couple thou off! What's the worst that can happen? You goof it up and have to use it as a core to get a rebuilt one.... I'm sure you can do some surfing and find out what type of cutter to use, what kind of feed rates are ideal, etc. There have got to be lots of home mechanics and small shops with lathes that talk among themselves on what works and what doesn't. Edited January 13, 2006 by mws Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted January 13, 2006 Author Share Posted January 13, 2006 well the guy in charge of our shop is good with all this stuff i'll prob ask him about it tomorrow he's about 65 but damn if he cant machine almost everything and anything... i'd assume the surface is some sort of HSS and then i could prob use 1 of our CNC lathes to make the cut at the right speed as the diameter increases....but if he doesnt have time to help me with that i might just pay for a new flywheel and core charge then practice on my old 1 and if it turns out good i'll save it for later or sell it on the good ole ebay or something Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grumpy Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 (edited) if your throwing in a new clutch, resurface the fly wheel - NO ifs, buts or maybes. I agree - 100%. Do the rear main seal too. http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/bf100372.htm Edited January 18, 2006 by Grumpy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbecktold Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 Have it resurfaced. I didn't last time I did the clutch and have regretted it every shift of the last 50k or so. I've got the engine out now, and am doing it right this time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 since im teaching a sophomore machining class... I'll assume you have a clue then. To check for warpage, a cheat method is to put it on a granite plate face down, and tap around the rim and use feeler gauges to check the gap. That works poorly. The right way is to turn or grind (carefully) the locating surface flat removing as little material as possible. Mike the thickness and map out any deviations. Then place the flywheel on it's 'back', resting on 3 points (preferably balls) on a granite plate. Now use a skate and indicator and indicate the top surface and map out any plane deviations from the same clocking point of the previous map. Compare the two and you know how warped and/or out of parallel the FACE is. Put a plate in the lathe with the bolt hole circle of the flywheel tapped into it. Face it until full clean up. Bolt on the flywheel and face that to full clean up. Congrats, you now have a flat, parallel flywheel ! Ok, I know there are different ways to approach it., but most any other way either does not take into account a major factor, or requires specific machinery. I do happen to do this stuff for a living (again). Then again, you can just pay someone to do it (but check their work) or buy a remanufactured one. All depends what your time and interest is... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 (edited) i resurfaced mine for $35 and it was the best $$ i could have spent! seriously. just do eeet. you'll hate me now but thank me later kinda thing...lol rear main seal a must too mine was in better shape than yours (although "looked uglier) and i resurfaced.... just my .02 Edited January 18, 2006 by Slick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z_Pilot Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 Rear Main seal P\N? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 (edited) Rear Main seal P\N? Thanks for my 92 it was: Autozone~ P/N: RS40628 Rear main Seal $11.99 Edited January 18, 2006 by Slick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted January 18, 2006 Author Share Posted January 18, 2006 i went ahead and bought a new flywheel it was only like $60 and when i have time i'll resurface it at the shop and either sell it on ebay or keep it for later on...and yes i did the rear main seal as well as the pilot bushing and throwout bearing only if i had time to finish bolting down the intake and put the timing belt on this week then it'd be time to cross the fingers give her a crank and see what happens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 (edited) if your throwing in a new clutch, resurface the fly wheel - NO ifs, buts or maybes. yep what he said,, @!*% it only costs 20-30 bucks to have it resurfaced I can tell from the color in the pic that you SHOULD have in turned Edited January 19, 2006 by 87pathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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