Tx_Atty Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 I searched previous threads and didnt find exactly what I was looking for... Is there a proper procedure to switch from dino to synthetic fluids (oil in particular)? Meaning, is there a phase in process or simply drain and switch? Our pathy is still so new it hasnt had its first oil change. From the longevity results I have seen, synthetic seems to be the way to go, at least to me, so I am planning on moving over but dont want to screw anything up. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filthy Luker Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 It's a super complicated process so pay attention: 1. Drain dino fluids. 2. Fill with new synthetic fluids. 3. Enjoy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tx_Atty Posted December 1, 2005 Author Share Posted December 1, 2005 Ok, I suspected as much but a source of mine (old man) said you cant just jump from one to the other. Didnt make much logical sense to me but then Im not a mechanic. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ Dank Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 Yup thats exactly what I did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 I have heard to break in the motor with dino oil then switch to synth and that some older vehicles with high miles may leak more with synth... Neither really applies to you so I'm not sure why I said that... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 yes BUT, don't do it yet. might want to check with nissan on the break-in period. at least 1000mi but for oils i'd prob go 5k before i'd put synth in. i think you need to do your first oil change at 500mi regardless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revgolem Posted December 3, 2005 Share Posted December 3, 2005 Everyone's been right on the money so far. The problem with switching is with older vehicles. Synthetics flow a lot better than dino, and do a great job of cleaning the engine and keeping it that way. Dino is a bit thicker and seals in minor cracks and leaks. Switching to syn in an older vehicle will clean out the system, including the cracks and such causing leaks you never knew you had. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grumpy Posted December 3, 2005 Share Posted December 3, 2005 There has been a long tradition of holding off on the change to synthetics until the rings have seated. Mobil's web site claims this isn't necessary anymore. One note of interest - Castrol's Syntec, while a very good oil, is not exactly a synthetic oil, although they are allowed to portray it that way. I don't believe you can go wrong with Mobil 1. I have a great link from an experienced petroleum engineer with regard to synthetics, but that site is down right now. I'll try to remember to post it later. Enjoy the new ride. For what it's worth, in my opinion, synthetic has a number of advantages over conventional stock oil, but to the best of my knowledge, no one has ever proved in independent testing that synthetic will extend engine life or decrease engine wear. Considering that Mobil 1 has been available for well over 20 year, I find that of interest. My point is, there's no harm in using a good quality conventional stock oil, as long as we change it in a timely manner. If I'm wrong, please educate me with a link to the independent test results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelmanLS1 Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 I've been told to switch to a semi-synthetic and then go full synthetic the next time around. I trust you guys, I was just wondering if you knew of a reason why my friend would say that. Also, I have 165,000 on my '95... should I bother switching? I was actually going to switch the next oil change but if it leaks maybe not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted December 5, 2005 Share Posted December 5, 2005 (edited) Well I just finished roaming around all the different shops in my area searching for a Synthetic GL-4 75W90 Gear Oil for my Manual Transmission Case and have discovered a few options other then Redline MT-90. Redline is really not common in Canada and very few people have even heard of it let alone carry it. Redline is still available in Canada at select dealers according to Redlines Website, But I contacted Canadian Tire as what was mentioned, and found they don't carry it so really not to sure how accurate or outdated it may be. What follows are a few options with their respective Part numbers. Quaker State GL-4 75W90 (NOT Synthetic) Only available in a 19 Litre Pail Quaker States Part #51125 Just Added Quaker State Synthetic GL-4 75W90 Available in 1 Litre Bottles Quaker States Part #56125 Around $12.91 CAN a bottle. WOO HOO Castrol GL-4 75W90 (NOT Synthetic) Only available in a 60 Litre Barrel Castrol Part # 0686-11 Penzoil Synthetic GL-4 75W90 Sold in 1 Litre Bottles Penzoil Part # 56076 Remember these are only for Manual Transmission Fluids. Both 2wd and 4wd. Those were all I could find. Prices will Vary depending on where you buy them. If anyone else has some other Canadian Options that I missed Please feel free to add them. Good Luck and enjoy. Dowser Edited February 1, 2006 by Dowser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 5, 2005 Share Posted December 5, 2005 Well done Dowser, and thanks for sharing... Looks like I'll be looking for the penzoil as I really don't need 60L... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted December 5, 2005 Share Posted December 5, 2005 Well done Dowser, and thanks for sharing... Looks like I'll be looking for the penzoil as I really don't need 60L... B second that notion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted December 5, 2005 Share Posted December 5, 2005 Engineer steps in room.... What they said! But not what they heard! There are a lot of OWT's floating around about synthetics vs dino oils. And some people still believe them. Some passionately. Kinda like the old "can't store a battery on concrete" deal. NO problems switching back and forth. Usually not even a problem to mix them - but not advised. The old engine suddenly springing leaks is more a function of the higher quality additive packages in synthetics than any magical difference in the base oil. The additives include superior detergents and sludge fighters. They do what they're supposed to do - keep the engine clean. If an engine has been run on low quality oils for years, it may be sludged up. If it has worn seals, the sludge may be filling the gaps and minimizing leaks. If you clean the sludge out, the leak may get worse. Cheap oils before the 80's were horrible at preventing sludge, so engines used to get REALLY sludged up - this is the source of the stories. If you've been running a modern name brand oil, you should have no problems at all. Older engines required notable break in as the rings took a while to seat. Seating means they had to wear some to fit properly. Synthetics tended to lubricate so well the rings couldn't wear enought to properly seat - so it was a good idea to run poorer lubricants for a few hundred/thousand miles. Modern, well engineered and manufactured engines (like those from Germany and Japan) have incredibly better tolerances and materials, and the rings will seat within a couple hundred miles - so you can switch to synthetics at the first specified oil change as the engine is fully broken in. Bottom line: Follow the manual guidelines. If the manual does not have specific restrictions, go ahead and switch at the first recommended change - but not before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grumpy Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 (edited) Good read from a petroleum engineer http://www.lincolnsonline.com/article105.html "For those reasons, it is vitally important that you operate your car in a variety of driving styles during this high-friction break-in period to ensure that the internals are fully worn-in, or seated by the time equilibrium sets in. If the parts are not fully worn-in by that time, then the new-found brittleness will cause an excess of wear and tear, shortening the engine's life. For that reason, it is a good idea to stick with regular 'dino' for the break-in period, so that you will have enough friction to wear in the parts, but not so much that you are damaging the engine. Since there is so much friction, and therefore much more microscopic (but still damaging!) particulate matter present in the oil, I would recommend changing it at the first 200 miles, then at 500 miles, and then every 1,000-1,500 miles until you have reached about 12K. At this point, you have done everything possible to help your engine reach as near a perfect state of equilibrium as possible, and no more break-in is necessary. That means that now you want to have as little internal friction as possible. At this point, switch to a good full synthetic." Mobil talks synthetic http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorO...tics/Myths.aspx "One of the myths that surrounds synthetic oils is that new engines require a break-in period with conventional oil. The fact is, current engine manufacturing technology does not require this break-in period. As indicated by the decisions of the engineers who design the high-performance cars listed above, Mobil 1 can be used starting the day you drive the car off the showroom floor." Edited December 18, 2005 by Grumpy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted February 1, 2006 Share Posted February 1, 2006 New Addition to the Gear Oil List. I Edited my Original Post up above. For all you Canadians out there. Love It. Dowser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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