Tx_Atty

yep...

that would be great, thanks!

that's the problem. I dont know jack about wiring. I thought maybe it had already been done by someone here. I know it is a fairly common mod on new Ford trucks. if anyone cares to figure it out and offer a "wiring for dummies" explanation I would appreciate it. If not, no big deal.

Has anyone figured out how to alter my light wiring so the fog lights stay on when I switch to hi-beams? Thanks!

Actually it is entirely about different sizes. The amsoil may (or may not, I dont know for certain) trap smaller micron size particles, BUT, if it is not designed to first filter out the larger particles while allowing oil to continue through to the inner filter material, it will simply clog on the outer surface of the element and prevent any oil from passing through to the finer element layers. The whole idea for the FS2500 and OilGuard is to filter large particles first and continue filtering at progressively finer increments all the way through the element. The oilguard is $200 too so if I skip the FS2500 at $529 I would also skip the amsoil. I have nothing against amsoil per se. I just want the most effective process. the FS has the added proof of research from Southwest Research Institute and I am related to a particular VP there who confirms its performance. Too bad it is so d@mn expensive.

I have eliminated Amsoil from the list of possibilities. It uses a solid mass filter whereas the other two use multi-layer elements designed to trap different micron size particles. Unfortunately, the FS2500 is $529 and is the one I would get if $ was no object. I believe the Oilguard is probably just fine but want to find some more real world experiences before I commit.

I am looking at an oil bypass filter system for my diesel pickup and began wondering if I should add one to the '05. Is anyone running one of these and, if so, what are your thoughts and experience? I have limited my choices to OilGuard and/or FiltrationSystems FS2500. Thanks!

wow, it has new wheels, tires, AND rims! Wonder where he puts them...

I do know not to blast. I regularly wash my truck engine so care is in order. The wife's engine isnt greasy yet, just dusty. We are having the worst drought in over 50 years so dust is everywhere. I was thinking I would just lightly spray to wash the dust off. I am very unfamiliar with these new engines and the way they cover everything up. I havent taken a close look yet so dont even know where the fuse box is. Is there a simple way to cover it? I suppose these are self-evident questions once I open the hood and study awhile. Thanks!

My diesel is a ford truck so the translation to yours is not my area but... the k&n has been extensively discussed on the truck site I read. The consensus is that it allows too much particulate matter through the filter (dirt etc). I went with another brand that tests better. K&N is too expensive anyway. Do some extensive searching for air intake replacements but I would advise to skip the kn. See if you can find testing results. Diesels are too expensive to risk dirt into the intake.

yeah, the engine needs a cleaning. We had a major dust storm yesterday with gusts to 60 mph. Dust even came in through the windows. Today was cleaning the house and both cars. What do I need to cover on this engine if I just (gently) use the garden hose to rinse? I clean my pickup that way but this is so completely different than a diesel.

Here is a link to a few pictures of the wife's new '05. I;ll add them to my sig so they will probably be here twice. new 05

The maxima was a 99 and you held down the unlock button on the fob and it rolled down the windows - how far was dependent upon how long you held the button. You could not roll up but the post I mentioned said you could do it on the Pathy. I guess I;ll call the stealer.

I read a post elsewhere here talking about using the fob to open/close the windows. our old maxima did this but the new pathfinder LE does not. I tried putting the key in the door and turning it but that doesnt do it either. Was this an option my LE left off or can I do something to activate the functionality? Thnx

One rattle is coming from the driver rear door and sounds a little metalic. Almost as if the seat buckle was rattling against the door frame (it isnt). Another is from the passenger front A pillar grab handle. My wife held onto it the other day and it quit but started again as soon as she let go. That one is more like a rubbery squeak. Others are not really easily pinpointed. In her old maxima, the dash squeaked periodically and if you pushed on the passenger airbag area it would quit. The pathfinder seems to have similar squeaks. I would keep taking it back to the dealer but my experience already has shown them to be less than competent. Nothing pisses me off more than having them call me and say "we fixed it, come get it" and before I even get out of the parking lot it again does whatever I took it in for. I still love the car but rattles are not acceptable.

My wife's '05 LE is only a month old and squeaks and rattles all over the place. It comes from so many places I cant identify them all. Has anyone else noticed this? For 30K Im getting a little pissed.

soft - coke beer - domestic: Coors light; Import - Franzeskaner Hefeweisen wine - any St. Emilion Grand Cru Whiskey (there isnt really anything else is there?) - Wild Turkey 101 rocks

Is this some sort of option? My wife's '05 LE wont do it with the remote but her former 99 Maxima base model did. I havent tried the key in the door option but it seems we all have random results on the fob. How do you alter the programs?

Welcome. I just noticed the forum breakdown by year model. I just bought an '05 last month. I am interested to view the mods you have made... (havent gotten there yet). Im glad to see some interest in this year model forum. Let's keep it going.

i hope someone is orchestrating a data backup!

Ok, I suspected as much but a source of mine (old man) said you cant just jump from one to the other. Didnt make much logical sense to me but then Im not a mechanic. Thanks!

I searched previous threads and didnt find exactly what I was looking for... Is there a proper procedure to switch from dino to synthetic fluids (oil in particular)? Meaning, is there a phase in process or simply drain and switch? Our pathy is still so new it hasnt had its first oil change. From the longevity results I have seen, synthetic seems to be the way to go, at least to me, so I am planning on moving over but dont want to screw anything up. Thanks!

Greetings from W. Texas, I just bought my wife a new '05 LE about 2 weeks ago and am wondering why I waited until now. I had to go with the 2 wheel drive - I have my 4x4 pickup for off-roading. I'll be lurking in the background reading about the improvements I can make post-warranty. My father just sent me a message about a friend with 350,000 miles on his '91; Im hoping I can duplicate his success.