Guest pathyman95 Posted November 17, 2005 Share Posted November 17, 2005 has ne one in here ever heard of putting an m90 supercharger on their wd21 pathy check out this link and tell me what u think supercharger[/url]http://www.superchargersonline.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=320 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted November 17, 2005 Share Posted November 17, 2005 (edited) Check this link's pics and vids section: www.lpperformance.com Edited November 17, 2005 by jj big shoe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derogate Posted November 17, 2005 Share Posted November 17, 2005 prolly pretty easy to fit onto a carbed pathy. Dunno about the EFI ones though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted November 17, 2005 Share Posted November 17, 2005 i'd say its probably easier. Since the 3.3L engine is the same block and its been done from teh factory. setting up a carb or TBI on top of a super charger takes up alot of space and the EFI engins have the throttle body on the side not up on top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pathyman95 Posted November 18, 2005 Share Posted November 18, 2005 i want the supercharger badly i am very tempted to swap my vg30e motor for the vg30i that sc sounds bad a$$ they said its 1200$ for the hardware and pulley set up and can get the sc on ebay for bout 500$ sound nice to me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted November 18, 2005 Share Posted November 18, 2005 prolly pretty easy to fit onto a carbed pathy. Dunno about the EFI ones though. I thought all Pathy's were TBI Fuel Injection, I might be mistaken though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted November 18, 2005 Share Posted November 18, 2005 the tbi was only done for a couple of years, i think it stopped in 89 or 90 then they went to EFI. Thats the difference between a VTG30I and a VG30E Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Electrifyliak Posted November 19, 2005 Share Posted November 19, 2005 Man, that supercharged pathy has a mean rumble to it! Wonder what kind of exhaust he's running, i saw headers but not sure what kind. Wish my rig sounded like that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pathyman95 Posted November 19, 2005 Share Posted November 19, 2005 (edited) i tink he said somthing about 2.5" with thorley headers dont quote me on that though it says it in the forums on j and p's website Edited November 19, 2005 by pathyman95 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC1 Posted November 19, 2005 Share Posted November 19, 2005 (edited) The supercharger in those pictures is same factory one out of a Thunderbird Supercoupe (89-96) I used to have one, they are a great supercharger, low maint. and reliable, the only problems with them were the nose seals will start to weep, a $15 fix. These superchargers are Very easy and cheap to get ahold of online, ebay ect. , I could probley get one with plumbing for $300. There are mods you can do to these chargers as well, Smaller pully's, porting, ect. i've done them all, they worked very well. When I added the big intake and MAF it made it sound like a jet engine, very loud, awsome. Here is a pic. of the thinderbird engine bay, for refernce: http://www3.telus.net/public/spelch/Supercoupe.jpg The only thing I would be concerned with this idea, would be fuel, and making sure you had enough, if it leans out on you you'll melt a piston. Also they mounted the TBI on the intake, so you would be running fuel therough the supercharger and all that plumbing, something about that dosnt sit well with me, and is something they never had from the factory. The "rotors" inside the Supercharger are teflon coated which makes the seal and gives you your boost. Fuel running through there might mess up that coating. The supercoupe V-6 was MUCH stronger then the standard, forged crank, hypo. piston's, ect, I would be concerned these pathy engines couldn't handle the higher boost (10 + psi). You could put a bigger pully on it for less PSI and reliability , or leave it as is and take your chances. Other that that, this would be a fairly simple project to do, easy to rig up. This is something I'm definatly going to look for my 87, once spring rolls around and the 57's back on the road, I dont want to blow up my only wheels right now. Andrew Edited November 19, 2005 by SC1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted November 20, 2005 Share Posted November 20, 2005 This is something I'm definatly going to look for my 87 I was interested in it for my '87 as well. Let me know how you make out with it. I know about as much about setting up a S/C system as I know about women. What would you recommend I do to my old 200k mile motor in order to handle the boost? Would I have to do a complete overhaul and rebuild? Head work? I've already done headers and larger exhaust. I'm not planning on killer 1/4 mile times or anything, I'd just like a bit more umph so the Pathy is able to get out of it's own way. Plus, it would be way cool to have sitting there when pop your hood: "What's that?" *Leans against truck and spits like a cowboy*..."supercharger." "Sweet."...*Wishes he was cool, too.* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC1 Posted November 20, 2005 Share Posted November 20, 2005 Ya, I'm thinkin just some more power, not lots. The fuel issues that could come from doing this worrys me alittle, your relieing on the factory computer (o2 sensor) to sense a lean condition and correct it (adding more fuel). Don't get me wrong, this is ok to a certien level, but not 10+ PSI, you WILL blow your engine up, I promise you. You need to retard your timing altitle and use 94 octane fuel to pevent detonation. I would be comfortable with 6 PSI or so, that would add around 30 or so HP, but more toque, which is what you want. AS per rebuilding your engine before, its not a bad idea, but if your running lower PSi (6-8) I wouldn't be to concernd, I'll wait till it goes. Porting and such doesn't hurt, if you want to do it, it's not neccicary though. I would if my enignes on a stand, I wouldn't go outta my way to do it though, i.e tear it all apart JUST to do porting. You're factory exhaust would do just fine, but better exhaust is a good thing, it will lower your boost alittle because there is less restriction. This is a good thing, easier on your engine, AND you will get more power even though the boost droped, more boost does not always mean more power. My thunderbird was 15-16 psi stock, when I was done with lots of mods, it was around 12psi, but had so much more low end torque. A better breathing engine is going to last alot longer under boost. As per the pathy I would love to tear the engine out and rebuild her, port it, and set this up, that woul be ideal, but i'm no willing to spend that kind of money on my daily driver, my 57' gets my extra cash. The extra power should sure be nice though, these things are so frikin gutless. I'll keep you informed though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC88Pathy Posted November 21, 2005 Share Posted November 21, 2005 Actually there has been a discussion about how much boost a stock VG30 can take and it's a lot. Remember these are the same engines blocks that are in the twin turbo charged 300ZX! AHAH! I found the post where the guy who's actually done this posted info about it! http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...t=0entry16051 WOW he says he's running 15 pounds of boost! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89_trailboss Posted November 21, 2005 Share Posted November 21, 2005 just so you all know, hes running pacesetters with dual 2" pipe dumped right before the rear axle. No muffler, no cat, NOTHING but stait pipe. the lower end of the VG engines can take a BEATTING. he has run 15+PSI boost. the first thing that will go is your auto trans. Its a DEALY setup, I want one soooo bad. This very mod is what made me keep my 89 over our 94 that was in wayyyyyy better shape. Hopefully I will beable to run a SC by the end of 06, if all goes well. Check Ebay for a 1st gen M90, you can get them CHEAP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC1 Posted November 21, 2005 Share Posted November 21, 2005 Well, what the hell, I may as well get on this, this is such a boring time of year I need something to do. Now looking at the pictures the one thing I'm not to sure about is the belt tensioner that was used. Is that the factory A/C tensioner? Can anybody conferm this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89_trailboss Posted November 22, 2005 Share Posted November 22, 2005 The belt system in the pics is NOT what is going to be used in the kit. It is now a 30mm Timing belt(cogged). go here to find LOTS more info on the kit: http://lpperformance.com/board/viewforum.p...377f61f93128f50 http://www.nissanoffroad.net/messageboard/...asp?FORUM_ID=96 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuismO Posted November 22, 2005 Share Posted November 22, 2005 Check this link's pics and vids section:www.lpperformance.com ok i have no idea how to install super/turbo chargers...but damn...that is one bad ass pathy!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC1 Posted December 7, 2005 Share Posted December 7, 2005 (edited) Haven't looked at this thread in a few weeks, 89_trailboss, as great as a cog setup sounds, they should not be used on these superchargers. You want some slippage, otherwise your supercharger will self-distruct, as i've seen in the Thunderbird world. People didnt like slippage and came up with way's off stopping it with nasty result's. During the shift at high RPM, high load, the rotors want to keep acellerating and turning in the direction they already are while the engine is slowing down and trying to make them go the opposite direction. This shock is absorbed primarily by the coupler and drive hub/pins. What happened in instance's, is the constant shock the drive hub saw during these conditions causes the pins to bend away from being perpendicular to the hub. While the pins bend very little, what actually happens is the aluminum hub gives a little each time allowing the pins to move. As the blower continues to be in service, the pins oblong the hole they are pressed into further and further. You can see in the picture: http://www3.telus.net/public/spelch/brokendrive1.jpg the hub allowed the pins to lean far enough over that they back out of the bore they were pressed into. This allowed them to back away from the coupler far enough to tear their way out of it. As this continues happening, the splines on the shaft which the hub is pressed onto begin to distort along with the aluminum hub bore itself. Eventually, the press fit of the hub on the shaft gives way entirely and spins freely fully disengaging the rotors. The bearing's don't like this eithier: http://www3.telus.net/public/spelch/brokendrive2.jpg As bad as belt slippage sounds, alittle is a good thing. Now as per the engines being the same as 300's, the BLOCKS are the same, thats it, the internal's are not and that is what is going to go on you, not the block. Unless your upgrading your piston/rods, crank, ect. these engines will not handle 15psi for long. Andrew Edited December 7, 2005 by SC1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 I wouldn't think the internal rotational mass of a M90 would be high enough to cause those sort of problems, but then again, I've never looked into it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC1 Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 Ya, you really woudn't think so, but this is the case. These blowers are very solid, the weakest link is in the snout, I dont have a pic handy, so i'll explain it best I can. On the end of the drive shaft there is a disk with three post's on it, this is what drives the coupler that is in the first picture which is attached to the one of the "drive" gears in the assembly, these gears are what spin the internals. Keep in mind, the lobes inside are doing 15000 - 20000 RPM when your revin it good, thats alot of energy to try to slow down quickly.I just rebuilt a M90 for this project, I should have taken some internal pics so you could see what i'm talkin about. I'm not trying to rain on anybodys parade, just want to make sure nobody breaks there stuff. I'm going to try the v belt first, I think it'll do just fine for the gains I want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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