nige Posted October 4, 2005 Share Posted October 4, 2005 (edited) I just received mine yesterday, and when I looked at the flanges which bolt up to the block, I noticed they are not even close to being flush. It looks like they never got around to grinding down the welds where the pipes meet the flanges. It's hard to explain without pictures (i should have some tomorrow) but I've never seen a header like this before. I thought they should all be quite smooth and flush with the flange :confused: Does anyone have any pics of the engine side of them they could post for me to compare to my own? Besides that, they arrived with all the associated parts intact, and there was one minor dent where the crossover pipe meets the collectors which I will also post for your viewing pleasure. If the flanges aren't supposed to be smooth like most other headers, I'd be pretty ticked off with the quality of this product. Edited February 26, 2007 by skrillaguerilla Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted October 4, 2005 Share Posted October 4, 2005 Dunno. I got mine from AC and I think they sold me a used set. The shop that put them on said they had to shave a bit off the driver's side flange because it was warped. After that it mated flush with the block. I don't really remember what the flange surfaces looked like, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted October 4, 2005 Share Posted October 4, 2005 Hmmmm that sounds very strange. Let me go look at my car domain page, cause I pics of them there. lets see if you just got a crappy set or what, cause I don't remember mine being that bad at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted October 4, 2005 Share Posted October 4, 2005 Here's the header, can't really see the mating surfaces so well here And here you can kind of see the collector flanges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted October 4, 2005 Share Posted October 4, 2005 Most headers will leave a "ridge" around the exhaust port to provide better sealing. However, the top surface of that ridge should be relatively flat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted October 13, 2005 Author Share Posted October 13, 2005 This is what I was talking about: Notice how the ports aren't flush with the flange? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted October 14, 2005 Share Posted October 14, 2005 Hmmmm, I don't recall mine lookin like that. I'd send that pic directly to Thorley and see what they say. I had some email interaction with them while I was shopping around for headers. They were quick to respond, and very informative about their product specs. I'd see what they say. You might bring up that you know others who have the same and they didn't have the ridge like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 14, 2005 Share Posted October 14, 2005 I'm thinking that the land around each exhaust port is there to minimize surface area, thereby increasing pressure on the gasket's actual critical sealing area. (I'm assuming they are flat, smooth and planar from the photo). I could be wrong and they did not get ground, but thats the only area that really matters so I could so them working just fine. It's not like 6 bolts in odd places are going to supply correct pressure to seal the entire manifold surface. I won't even go into warpage. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted October 14, 2005 Author Share Posted October 14, 2005 Hmmmm, I don't recall mine lookin like that. I'd send that pic directly to Thorley and see what they say. I had some email interaction with them while I was shopping around for headers. They were quick to respond, and very informative about their product specs. I'd see what they say. You might bring up that you know others who have the same and they didn't have the ridge like that. I'm just gonna give them a call today and see what's up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filthy Luker Posted October 14, 2005 Share Posted October 14, 2005 Is your truck auto or mantran? I have an autotragic transmission in my truck and I am confused as to what the hell to do about header situation. My whole exhaust at this point just ticks at the front and lies on the frame crossmembers and rattles to crap as I am driving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted October 14, 2005 Share Posted October 14, 2005 looks odd to me but what it seems you have is a raised rim to applu good pressure on the gasket where it counts. That surface should be smooth. As for the bolt flanges, if the difference between them and the 'rim' is too great, you'll simply warp the ring and lose your good seal. slight rim = good. high rim = bad and... it is my understanding that the thorley headers, although made for manuals, will work on an AT. Although they will not publish it, when I spoke with the thorley folks, they told me that they have had a lot of customers who have successfully installed the manual headers on an AT truck w/o modification. For the price, I'm not gonna try although I need some. I don't have any welding or pipe bending stuff to make any mods to them if they need it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted October 14, 2005 Author Share Posted October 14, 2005 (edited) Yeah, that's pretty much the same story with mine. I think the big difference between the auto and manual was the fit of the crossover pipe. They say it hangs a little low (lower than the crossmember?) when it's installed on an auto . I remember seeing one member's photo of them installed on an auto, but I cant recall who the owner was. My exhuast sounds just like yours. A rotten, swiss-cheese, rust-encrusted mess that hisses like a pack of snakes in the morning. I was debating to get just some plain replacements for the Y-pipe, but since the manifolds were leaking, I decided to get these and forget about the emissions testing. If they are CARB legal, they should pass here in onterrible. If not, then that gives me an excuse to spend $200 on a high-flow cat next summer Edited October 14, 2005 by skrillaguerilla Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filthy Luker Posted October 14, 2005 Share Posted October 14, 2005 Hmm.... so you got a mantran then I take it? I wonder if there is somebody with an autotragic that has a header installed that would be willing to measure just how low the bloody thing hangs. I am about to install a set of skidplates so i am worried about the clearance with exhaust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted October 14, 2005 Author Share Posted October 14, 2005 no, I have an auto. I can take some photos when (if i'm ever) done installing them. Either that or you can see them at one of those soxc coffee meets i've been meaning to get to Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filthy Luker Posted October 14, 2005 Share Posted October 14, 2005 no, I have an auto. I can take some photos when (if i'm ever) done installing them. Either that or you can see them at one of those soxc coffee meets i've been meaning to get to I've been banned from SOXC for unknown reasons and even pre-banning i wasn't much of a coffee meet person. I liked wheeling more . But if you can take pics/measurements that would be great for above listed reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelmanLS1 Posted October 16, 2005 Share Posted October 16, 2005 I have an auto with Tholeys. I'll go get a picture right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelmanLS1 Posted October 16, 2005 Share Posted October 16, 2005 It has about a 2" gap in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted August 14, 2006 Author Share Posted August 14, 2006 Alright, I have my headers, gaskets, high-flow cat (magnaflow), new studs for the headers. All I need to do now is pick a good muffler. Since the sound clips on all the manufacturer's websites suck the dills, I need some feedback from all of you that own 'performance' mufflers. I want one that has a pleasant, quiter note, not the type that drones throughout the interior. I'm thinking that a Flowmaster 50 series is the one I want, but there are the Magnaflow type too that have a straight-through design, which I think might be pretty loud. I also know that some of you guys have Dynomax mufflers too, do they have that annoying interior drone on the highway too? Also I was thinking about doing what 88pathoffoad did, and forget about running a tailpipe over the axle and just weld a turn-down from the end of the muffler. I just wanted to make sure that you aren't able to smell any fumes in the cab when you're in standing traffic (if you get that in oregon). Other than that, I've taped up my thorley headers and made sure that the don't have any leaking welds on them, and i've also made sure that the flanges are all flush with each other and shouldn't leak (i've read some horror stories about these headers on the AC site). Do you guys have any other recommendations before I start to install them? Other folks have put some copper sealant around all the gaskets, so I might as well follow suit if it helps them seal up better. Filthy, after I get them installed, I'll come out with you guys and you can check them out before I get them dirty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted August 14, 2006 Share Posted August 14, 2006 (edited) here's my headers when i took them off earlier this year.... this is the driver side i just went with a high flow cat... $50 from my local muffler shop and a flowmaster 50 series.... Edited August 14, 2006 by Slick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted August 14, 2006 Author Share Posted August 14, 2006 does it matter if the pipes going in and out of the muffler are offset? I think the stock muffler is, but I wasn't sure if it makes a big difference Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted August 14, 2006 Share Posted August 14, 2006 You just described what I wanted and achieved. It is tough to avoid a drone with a V6. I went with a Dynomax model 17733 muffler ($40 at Summit) and a 2.5" pipe over the axle and out about where the stocker was, but at a more rearward pointing angle. You do need to hire a VERY good pipe bender to fit a 2.5" tail pipe in a Pathy without having contact or suspension interference. Between the shock, suspension links, sway bar, and fuel tank, it is a very tight fit - but can be done. Amateurs or discount shops will not succeed. There is NO DRONE whatsoever when driving with the windows up - in fact, it is almost stock quiet on the freeway. With the windows down, there is more noise than stock - but it is a deep, pleasant sound - like a miraculously quiet glasspack, not the Flowmaster honking drone. And at full throttle, pretty gutsy without being at all obnoxious. The guy who did my system was surprised and very impressed at how pleasant and powerful (but not loud) it sounded when it was done - and he's a Flowmaster dealer! I would say it is quieter than 80% of the aftermarket systems I hear around town, and definitely one of the most pleasant I've EVER heard on a V6. I would do it exactly the same in a heartbeat. In fact, I did! I just did the '88 the same as the '87... Eliminating the over the axle tailpipe and using a down turn will make avoiding the drone very, very difficult. The sound waves will reflect off the road below and back up to the floor of the truck. And it is most likely that at least one frequency will excite the floor board and basically turn it into a big speaker. If you get the length, angle, and distance from the road just right on the down turn, you can minimize or maybe even avoid all the annoying resonances, but it can be difficult. I had to go through about 20 configurations on my old Ford... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted August 14, 2006 Author Share Posted August 14, 2006 (edited) thanks for your input mws! I'm going to keep the pipe diameter the same from the collecter pipe all the way to the tail pipe at 2.25". I could reuse my old tailpipe from the muffler as it's not too rotten, but I figured it would be a bit cheaper this way. I guess if I go this route, I won't have to worry about whether or not the pipe is offset from the center of the muffler. The guys I chose to install this stuff for me are one of the 'speed' shops around town. They specialize in american cars, but they've done Toyotas and a handfull of other imports too. Most of the muffler shops I talked to on saturday refused to install my headers :confused: I have no idea why, but i'll take my money elsewhere if they are so reluctant to do the job. Here's their ad: I'll make sure to post some before and after sound clips for you guys to listen to. Edited August 14, 2006 by skrillaguerilla Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted August 14, 2006 Share Posted August 14, 2006 2.25" is the optimal size tailpipe for these engines. I planned to go with 2.5" back to the muffler and 2.25" after that, but the installer kinda wanted the challenge of squeezing 2.5" in there just to test himself, so he did it at the same price! I can always shove a restrictor in the tail pipe to boost low end torque... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted August 15, 2006 Share Posted August 15, 2006 Just to update, I have both of my headers off and they exactly like yours on the mating surfaces. They have been on for over 2 years now, and showed no signs of leaking on the head flanges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted August 16, 2006 Share Posted August 16, 2006 and. just to defend my flowmaster 50 series... it has a very nice rumble wihtout the ricer noise or loudness.. and here's where it sits...... also.. i have great clearance to the shock and other suspension parts down there.... as you can see by my sig... it wasn't even within 2" of the shock at that point it's nicely tucked up out of the way and with the "echo" gives it a meaty little grumble sly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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