How does a lift/bigger tires effect handling?

[BigBikeMike]

I am assuming that since you are raising the center of gravity, the rollover risk is higher. But how much higher is the center of gravity, since the tires weigh so much more?

 

I ask because I still want to get the lift/tire combo, (I just still don't have the money) And I drive in the mountains a lot on very curvy roads with lots of switchbacks. How would my driving be affected with the lift?

 

Thanks!

[Pezzy]

I dont know any actual specs, but I noticed only a slight change in how the truck handles when we lifted it & added bigger tires...

 

I havent noticed much change when it comes to cornering, however - I do tend to take corners slower regardless. Compared to driving the lifted X (3" suspension lift) I hardly notice it lean into corners... I really feel it in the Xterra. weeeeeee! eek!

 

The biggest change when we lifted the pathy was the overall feel. The ride isnt as 'cushy' as it was before, and I have to slow down (more) for pot holes & speed bumps so the struts dont top out.

 

I think (and someone add or correct me here - as I am not entirely sure) you would notice a lot more body roll if your swaybars are disconnected/removed. I still have mine on.

Edited September 14, 2005 by Pezzy

[XPLORx4]

I'm running 32" MTRs on heavy steel wheels. The front swaybar is removed.

 

I have a heavy bullbar and winch, and a roof-rack that probably weighs a hundred pounds.

 

I have KYB GR2 struts up front, and a 2+" lift.

 

While there is more body roll with the swaybar removed, the truck still corners quite well at speed.

 

I believe the higher cg, increased body roll, and extra weight is substantially offset by having a 5" wider track and the gas-charged KYB struts. (The 5" wider track is a result of 15x8 wheels with slightly negative offset and much bigger tires. Stock was 15x6.5 wheels with positive offset and 235/70R15 tires.)

 

Attached is a 3-year-old photo when I had only 31s and 0 offset aluminum wheels. You can see how much wider my truck looks compared to the stock Pathy beside it.

 

Here's a recent photo with 32's.

Edited September 14, 2005 by XPLORx4

[marc_andrew]

i have the standard 4x4parts.com 2" lift, w KYB GR2s and Rancho 9000x and it is a much stiffer suspension than stock, and i believe those stiffer springs cut down on body roll. i live in denver and am always up and down the mountains, and as far as handling i cant really tell the difference between stock and lifted. but, like Pezzy said, you do feel the bumps more, especially when the shocks are dialed in high.

 

now i read somewhere that you dont need to swap out the shocks and struts when replacing the coils with those in the 4x4parts kit.... maybe that will make it a more affordable option for you?

[BigBikeMike]

Cool, Thanks guys

 

My girlfriend works at a Nissan Dealer, and I asked one of the sales guys/parts guys who really knows his stuff about cars, and he said that the lift would make it drive more like a truck, and that the appeal of the Pathy was that it drove like a car.

 

I told him I wanted it to feel like a truck!

[nick1716]

hey XPLORX4 do you have a front diff drop? cuz without it and your sway bars disconnected sounds like bad news to me! let me know cuz ive been wantin to take mine off but i dont want to thrash my cv boots any more than they already are haha

[XPLORx4]

hey XPLORX4 do you have a front diff drop? cuz without it and your sway bars disconnected sounds like bad news to me!

Huh? What does a diff drop have to do with a swaybar? CV angles are limited by max suspension travel, not by articulation.... :confused:

[nick1716]

Huh? What does a diff drop have to do with a swaybar? CV angles are limited by max suspension travel, not by articulation.... :confused:

cuz with the swaybar disconnected you get more flex... cuasing more stress on the cv BOOTS....so your saying its fine on the cv boots without a diff drop?

[XPLORx4]

Additional flex doesn't cause any more stress on the CV boots any than turning the steering wheel. Removing the swaybar just allows each wheel to move more independently, rather than together. Think about it; the normal suspension movement that occurs when both wheels move up and down at the same time isn't any different than the normal suspension movement that occurs when one wheel moves up and the other moves down. The left CV doesn't care what the right CV is doing.

 

Additional CV joint or CV boot wear would occur if you constantly operated them at their max extension or exceed their maximum operating angle by using strut spacers (which I strongly discourage).

[stevebaz]

Well the real question is then if you use a diff drop of say 1 inch then in therory you could use a strut extension to lower the strut 1 inch. Then you would offset some of the negative effects of the 2" + lifts. Or you in therory could forget the strut extensions and use the diff drop to offset the angle some on the CV's and not use manual hubs but live with the topping out issue. Of course diff drops are more expensive than manual hubs and manual hubs have other benefits. Currently I am working on all of the above. Just funds limiting me from going further. I will have to look at longer links for the sway bar if I keep it.

[XPLORx4]

If you're working on a diff drop, why stop there? Drop the entire front subframe, so you could make the drop 4, 5, or even 6 inches (with an equivalent strut spacer)!

[Duffman]

3" susp. w/33's on Alu. Wheels

 

Under 30mph, no prob, I would say even a better ride than stock in terms of body roll and general feel.

 

Over 50 is where it gets to be a handfull. Forget about making that 3 lane switch to make that exit.

[BigBikeMike]

3" susp. w/33's on Alu. Wheels

 

Under 30mph, no prob, I would say even a better ride than stock in terms of body roll and general feel.

 

Over 50 is where it gets to be a handfull. Forget about making that 3 lane switch to make that exit.

uh oh, I do that all the time!