stevebaz

The driverside door switch is the door jamb switch that controls the overhead light when you open the door.

I only use premium fuel and of that 99.99% is all Chevron by choice. As for your ticking if it was fuel related I would suspect it would be on mild acceleration and not just all the time. If there is a noise and its not from the engine internals it could be from the bearings in the belt tensioners, alternator or maybe just an exhaust leak. I would take a piece of heater hose about 3 feet long and hold one end to your ear and use it like a stetchascope to try and chase down the area of noise. Be very careful of moving parts. Good luck with your search for a cure. Steve

for 1999 try, turn your ignition to the on position (not start) within ten seconds of doing that press the Driver Side Door Switch 10 times and it should turn off/ reset Here's the process to reset the air bag light (copied from somewhere else) If you have the airbag light, it will show steady for a few seconds (the manual says 7 secs) after you turn the key from off to on (but not start) and then start to flash. Here is how to reset it: Next time try this. it works for 2005 nissan fronteers I also read someplace that you will get airbag flashing at 100,000 miles because nissan wants them in for a systems check. 1. Turn the key from off to on. 2. Watch the airbag light closely. It will stay on for a few secs. and then as soon as it blinks off (the start of the flashing), turn the key off instantly. 3. Count to 5 (1 Mississippi, 2 Mississippi . . . .) 4. Repeat steps 1-3 two more times until you have done the cycle three times. 5. Now turn the key on and watch the light. It will start blinking in a different, slower manner. This is diagnostic mode. You can watch this for a little while, no hurry. 6. Now turn the key off again, Count to 5 like in step 3 again, and turn back on. If the procedure worked, the airbag light will not be flashing. If it does not work the first time, just repeat the steps again. I found this stuff from google search. Steve

On my 2001 my owners manual states on section 10-6 "Mineral based or synthetic oils may be used in your NISSAN vehicle. These oils must however, meet the API quality and SAE viscosity ratings specified for your vehicle. Do not mix mineral based and synthetic type oils in the engine at the same time." The oil specified is prefered 5w-30. if the temperature is above 0 degrees f can use 5w-30, 10w-30, 10w-40. When I used 5w-30 in hot weather I had engine clatter on inital start-up due to hot oil drain back so I stopped using 5w-30. no engine noise anymore on engine start-up. This works where I live due to the outside temperatures here. Where you live make your own choice whats best for you. Why would they change that in the 2003 manual I don't know but maybe they just want your service dollars. Happy trails, Steve

If you read the owners manual there is 2 levels of oil protection and in Southern California we just dont get the cold temperatures requiring 5w-30 Most of the time the Pathfinder see's 90 degrees or higher and stop and go traffic. Coldest driving conditions for me is maybe 40 degrees F in the winter and thats only in the earliest morning. If I lived in cold winter climate I would diffinately use 5w-30 oil at least in the winter.

I just use the standard 10w-30 Mobil 1 full synthetic. Mobil 1 has been in my truck since its second oil change at 33,000 miles and has a little over 80,000 miles now. For an oil filter I use Wix or a Napa filter. I like their construction better and change it every 3,500 miles and change the synthetic oil every 7,000 miles or so. I am personally really scared of the sensitivity of the oiling system in the VQ motors. When I got the truck in the first 6 months the used car warrenty from Carmax had to replace both VTC timing solonoids and both VTC timing sensors mostly due to previous owners negelect to a very sensitive oiling system. At 80,000 miles I just replaced a another VTC timing sensor. What ever you do don't let the oil get dirty. As for the Tranny fluid I only use the Nissan dealer specified oil. Steve

I run full synthetic in my 01. I use mobile 1 I use this because when I bought my truck used with 30,000 miles on it the previous owner used regular oil and wasn't meticulus with oil changes. On the top of the engine is a timing control valve that gets hot and sticks with bad oil. It has a spool valve attached to a solonoid and redirects the oil for timing control, a gummy oil system sticks this valve and screws up the cam timing and may throw codes. The valve is very expensive and that thick additive you added is not in my opinion recomended. Your low oil issue and dirty oil you will need to flush out the oil system as best as you can. My first oil changes I used 5-w30 synthetic and changed it every 3,000 miles for the first couple of oil changes. Watch your oil consumption there is a problem in some pathfinders and the factory has changed the design of the valve covers to fix it. It may or may not be your model. Normal oil consumption for my truck is 1/2 quart in about 5,000 miles which is when I change my synthetic oil these days. Steve

If things are good in your motor your oil would not be black in 2 weeks. Your flushing could have loosened up a bunch of crap and polluted your new oil. Did you change your filter? If you are burinig a quart of oil in 2 weeks you would know it out your tail pipe it would be black and sooty. I would look into the oil drain back holes under the valve covers, your flushing could loosen up chunks of stuff and block the drain back holes leaving alot of oil sitting on top of the heads and causing pvc issues and sucking excessive amounts of oil down the valve guides. If you were sucking that much oil through the engine I doubt your catallitic converters could handle it and your o2 sensors would throw a code and a check engine light.

I tow a small boat and a varity of trailers. anywhere from 1000 to 2500 lbs. I never tow in overdrive I always switch it off and I have also added an extra trans cooler on my 2001 Pathfinder. These transmissions are way too sensitive and expensive to repair it makes no sence to push extra load on them.

Standard 2001 SE 16 inch clear the hubs if you remove the plastic center caps.

These are available in the us from Napa for about 69 dollars online. if you need a US source

Alot of thunks and clunks come from the unibody design echoing in the sheet metal. Things to check are trailer hitches and receiver inserts. Loose muffler or resonator. I had a clunk like this and it was my resonator hitting the trailer hitch. Another source is looseness in the rear tracking arm used to keep the axle centered. Also check that you still have the rubber rear spring isolators intact. check the upper shock mounts to see if your going metal to metal. basicly anything hitting the chassie will echo through the body in some form of clunk in addition to all of the usual suspension bushing issues.

VQ for me the truck wouldn't be nearly as much fun with less power. All though I like this truck and will keep it along time I am so pissed at nissan over these minor issues and their lack of standing up for their product it is the last nissan for me. I can fix the chicken S**t issues I can fix the corporate attitude. They are welcome to change my mind anytime if they grow some backbone and do whats right.

Just for the record. My 2001 with factory aluminium 16 inch wheels the warn hubs fit fine my transfer case is part time.

I have the AC lift and its low in the front, stock no extra weight. Your poll doesnt cover us that sit low have lift and didnt use spacers. so i voted for the first one. Curious note though: I measured my wheel well openings before lift and after lift and the truck went up exactly 3 inches all around from its sagged position before the lift. so its downward slope was there before the lift. It wasnt caused by the lift springs.

I needed to remove one stud from each mount while the strut assembly was in the pathfinder. Trust me hammering them out wasn't easy. With the hood and offending brackets and what nots i tried a large hammer and punch and quickly ran out of steam without budging the first stud. I switched to an air hammer and finally drove them out. Most of the studs will not come out due to interference with the spring mount but in my case I was lucky as the 2 studs that needed to be removed were in the right place and i could turn the wheel far enough to clear and get the stud out. For you guys pulling all the studs with the spring still assembled after you remove the strut assembly cut the studs down some and then use the vise trick. there isnt much room to work with and for the most part it would just be easier to disassemble the strut assembly press out the studs reinstall the new longer bolts and reassemble the strut. At least when your done the nuts will be on top and far easier to assemble. Just remember disassembling the strut is very dangerious and needs to be done with the proper tools.

I have recieved notification Thank You

Choice 1 is the same as my 2001 pathfinder. Model 01A There is also a model A in this same remote so be sure before you buy. There was a change in August 2000 so I cant tell you which one you need.

If you want to turn off the beep from the door locks read the back of your key remote. Press both the lock and unlock buttons on your remote for 2 seconds. now when you use the remote you wont get the beep. Your neighbors will love you for it.

You will taste your upholstery before you go over. Just stop and back up when your sphinter muscle tells you to. Over ride your seat muscle with your brain muscle and you will get into trouble you may not be prepaired for. Much more dangerious is a down hill section off camber with a sweeper turn at the bottom. Gravity quickly grabs hold and will mess up your paint. Far better to back off when you think you should and come back to fight this one another day, maybe when your more experienced or have someone to guide you that you trust your life and finances too. Famous quote from a helpful spotter "Sorry Man" just as he dashes off at the sound of broken glass. Not every spotter is worthy of the faith you put in them. Heeding man or mouse comments will sooner or later get you in trouble. Its your wallet and maybe your life you be the judge and let no one sway you. You can safely straddle that curb and most likely 3 times that but change the situation and slide sideways into that curb at 30 MPH and you will go over. Funny thing with me put me on a side hill with me on the uphill side I have no problems getting tippy but put me in the same spot on the bottom down hill side I start getting really freaked at half the angle. Enjoy the adventures your pathfinder can take you on even though you personally dont want to test the limits of its engineering. Travel safe and come back for more another day.

Well with my experience with 4-Wd components ( over 30 years)it shouldnt have mattered if the hub was unlocked or not unless you were actually driving in 4-wd. Park the truck and find out what the issue is. The pathfinder system is designed to run without hubs and all components turning and that is all that will happen if the hubs are locked whether its one or both hubs. Partialy ingaged hubs could concievably chew up the gear cogs and send powdered metal into your wheel bearings but this is unlikly. I am more worried about loose lug nuts or loose wheel bearings since you broke into these parts when you put in your hubs. Not knowing what you have done or had done in there let alone lift issues ( I am assuming Lift because otherwise you wouldnt be putting hubs on) I cant comment too much. If it is something serious it will probably the inner axle shaft and with hubs it shouldnt be turning unless in 4WD so it shouldnt make any noise. From where I am sitting the whole assembly should be pulled down and reassembled. We are talking about the part time transfer case here and not the full time case right. Hubs on the full time case wont do any good and parts will still be turning. Anyway since this work was done such a short time ago I suspect assembly error. Retrace your steps that got you here.

Tecciball, You have the proper fix for this issue but with my Carmax extended warrenty they will fix it for the $35.00 dollar deductable and not give me much hassles. The only problem with them is getting it in to be fixed in a timely mannor. If it wasn't under warrenty I wouldn't get it fixed. I would bypass the thing until I went to sell it. I dont want to jepordize my bumper to bumper warrenty by bypassing a safety item. Carmax hates me for the cd-changer issues. it has been fixed 3 times under warrenty and I didnt have to pay the deductable. Everytime they fix it, it gets a new 1 year repair warrenty so they have to fix it again and loose more money without a deductable charge. I figure I have just about paid for the extended warrenty they sold me. Thanks, Steve

No I havn't got it fixed yet. I need the truck next week and can't aford it to be laid up waititng for service. Its covered under my extended warrenty with Carmax but getting in and out of that place can be a bear. So it will have to wait until i am ready.

Well it must have been one heck of a weekend. My shifter interlock locked me out this last weekend at the boat ramp. There was no intermittant issues it just stopped working. Alot of pissed off people. I bypassed the lock by pulling the little square plug by the shifter on top of the console and inserting the square plunger in my tire guage. it is a pain in the arse right now to get going but at least I am not stuck at the boat ramp. Just remember to carry something like this in your car lest you get stuck someday. You need something long enough to go about 5 inches down inside the console to press on a spring loaded lever to release the shifter manually. Pratice doing this a couple of times before the switch fails on you and you get all panicky like I did. I knew about the bypass but in a frantic scramble I got all flustered and took quite a while to find something to get me going again. Did i mention alot of pissed off people making matters worse. And yes my Pathfinder is a 2001 Steve

At 70 mph my 2001 reads 5 mph off according to gps and i have the stock 16 inch tires getting close to the wear bars. At 70 i am only going 65. stock pathfinder SE with 43,000 miles.