Slick Posted August 11, 2005 Share Posted August 11, 2005 (edited) ok y'all. I installed the Grant wheel today. Easy as 1-2-3..well..... Step 1: disconnect the battery ground wire. Pic 1: take the OEM horn button pad off. My Pathy is a '92 (no air bags), so you just grab the top n kinda push the top down gently and she will/should pop right off. NOTE!!! for '94 & newer Pathys, they have air bags. Section 11-15 in the Haynes manual has steering wheel removal instructions, to include air bagged Pathys. OK. There is a clip on the lower part (you will see it if you pull the pad back a little).. disconnect the horn wires that are in front of it, and pop the clip. you will see why I say pop the horn wire clip out first.. the black clip you need to pop is a PITA with horn wires in way. I couldn't get to the little screw in there..so I popped the clip instead...no damage no problems. **Make sure your steering wheel stays in the UN locked position during the whole process as it is easier to get the new wheel straight and easier to maneuver stuff Edited August 12, 2005 by Slick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted August 11, 2005 Author Share Posted August 11, 2005 Step 2: Pop the wheel nut. It is a 19mm or 3/4 socket (I used 3/4). it should not be real tight. After popping the nut off, go get yerself a lil puller. I am not 100% sure what metric size to use, but I kinda used standard bolts cuz basically I am not keeping the OEM wheel..in the end, using the std bolts didn't cause any harm.. they were 5/16th (Chevy guys.. you understand?). GENTLY screw the puller bolts in, don't force anything, you could mess the shaft up.. then yer..well.. you get the idea... here we go with teh puller: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted August 11, 2005 Author Share Posted August 11, 2005 (edited) Step 3: Ok. You got the OEM wheel off. YAY for you! Check the general condition of the shaft and splines, and any doodads n gadjets you think might be worn. I used one of the two little grease capsules Grant supplied with the adapter kit and put it on the shaft splines..the other capsule has to go on the copper back pictured below. Glad I did grease the splines, cuz I had to remove the wheel to straighten it a bit, and it made it a LOT easier to remove the wheel again. The copper part goes closest to your dashboard. That is the back of the assembly. -study- Assemble your Grant wheel and adapter as per picture below, but don't forget to put the 2 little black pins supplied with your kit in the 2 holes pictured! sssh On the pins, the open sections MUST face the steering SHAFT, if they don't..your turn signals and wipers won't work! I tapped mine all the way in, and had no rubbing or problems. If they rub the plastic inside the column, you can bend them a bit for clearance.. if rubbing occurs, it could prematurely wear out your turn signals as well as the pins. Edited August 11, 2005 by Slick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vsicks Pathy Posted August 11, 2005 Share Posted August 11, 2005 Step 2: Pop the wheel nut. It is a 19mm or 3/4 socket (I used 3/4). it should not be real tight. After popping the nut off, go get yerself a lil puller. I am not 100% sure what metric size to use, but I kinda used standard bolts cuz basically I am not keeping the OEM wheel..in the end, using the std bolts didn't cause any harm.. they were 5/16th (Chevy guys.. you understand?). GENTLY screw the puller bolts in, don't force anything, you could mess the shaft up.. then yer..well.. you get the idea... here we go with teh puller: You can get the wheel off without the puller. Just back the retaining nut off. DO NOT REMOVE IT! I saw someone break their nose once and I came close a few times. LOL. Leave enough space for the wheel to move and hit it from behind with both hands while sitting in the drivers seat. You can also wrench it off by grabbing the wheel and pulling it HARD toward you. Again, LEAVE THE NUT ON! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted August 11, 2005 Author Share Posted August 11, 2005 (edited) Step 4: Have a drink, a smoke, or whatever floats yer boat, and then put the above pictured assembly on the steering shaft. *DO NOT force it on!! gentle with it or you could mess up your steering shaft splines!* Align the marking "Top A" (inscribed inside assembly) as close to TDC as your OEM wheel was. Once that is on, You can install the Grant wheel. Round metal plate goes on the BACK of the wheel, and install small alan headed screws to hold wheel on. Like ah-so: Edited August 12, 2005 by Slick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted August 11, 2005 Author Share Posted August 11, 2005 (edited) Last but not least.. I had to add a ground wire for my OEM horn... pssd so.. once it that was installed.. on went the center cap and away you go!! Thanks to my better half Dave,for installing the little ground wire for me.. if you knew me and electrical stuff.. you would be breathing a sigh of relief... BTW: GRANT adapter kit # 3560 I paid $10 for mine @ Autozone. *NOTE! The kit from Grant does NOT include the 2" spacer (ribbed rubber lookin thingy) shown in my assembly (I already had it).. you can get those anywhere (i.e:Summit/Autozone/Kragen) for around another $10, but check junk yards first..that is a universal part. Torque specs: Shoulder bolts: 10-12 ft/lbs Steering shaft nut 25-30 ft/lbs (very important NOT to overtighten these bolts/nuts) HAVE FUN!!!!!!! don't forget a few -alcohol- inbetween tasks! Edited August 12, 2005 by Slick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted August 11, 2005 Author Share Posted August 11, 2005 (edited) HEY PRESTO! You have a nice new Grant steering wheel! Yes.. I KNOW I have 1 screw missing in there (this wheel came off Daves 79 Chevy and the screw was missing then.. I will get a new one tomorrow) Edited August 11, 2005 by Slick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted August 11, 2005 Share Posted August 11, 2005 (edited) Did you put the turn signal pins in (the part that turns the blinker off after a turn)? I didn't see it in the pic of the back of the plate. If you have 2 short black metal tubes laying around in the part kit still, those would be them. Edited August 11, 2005 by GrimGreg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted August 11, 2005 Author Share Posted August 11, 2005 (edited) Yes. They are still in the kit.... I will check into installing them tomorrow and see if things change.. wonder why they worked that one time after I installed the wheel.. I took her down the road... THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!! good lookin out!! NOWHERE in the destructions did it say ANYTHING about the turn signals... WTF? damnit Grant.. you suck! Will let y'all know how I finally get the turn signals to work.... funny how they worked that one time... weeeeeeeeeeeeird... :furious: Edited August 11, 2005 by Slick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ramithepimp77 Posted August 11, 2005 Share Posted August 11, 2005 I see your toe-sies!!! My nails are the same color.... I MEAN.... never mind pssd Rami P.S. Im not a :Magic: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted August 11, 2005 Author Share Posted August 11, 2005 I see your toe-sies!!! My nails are the same color.... I MEAN.... never mind pssd Rami P.S. Im not a :Magic: LMAO!!!!!!!!!! I really need to paint my piggies... haven't done it inna while... I could do yours at the same time?? lol Funny.. I was laughing about my toes being in teh pic when I posted it! Didn't think anyone else would notice though! You guys don't miss a thing! (that..however..is a very good thing.. cuz I woulda been p.o.'d at my turn signals not working tomorrow for no reason.. now I know the reason!) :contract: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted August 11, 2005 Share Posted August 11, 2005 Just make sure to align the adapter correctly or they still won't work. The 2 pins should be horizontally across from each other with the wheel straight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted August 11, 2005 Author Share Posted August 11, 2005 Yup. popped the wheel off today and got everything dialed in..everything works PERFECT! thanks for lookin out Ryan! I would have figured it out eventually... rather now than later though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted August 12, 2005 Share Posted August 12, 2005 Always looking out for my Nissan Peeps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted August 12, 2005 Author Share Posted August 12, 2005 You da man Ryan.. you da man! :cool2: *kills herself from embarassment at doing a write up on it and forgets one important bit!* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted August 12, 2005 Author Share Posted August 12, 2005 I see your toe-sies!!! My nails are the same color.... I MEAN.... never mind pssd Rami P.S. Im not a :Magic: You spotted my piggies... but not the broken speedo needle!! lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted August 12, 2005 Share Posted August 12, 2005 You spotted my piggies... but not the broken speedo needle!! lol It looks like you were going 55 when you took that shot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted August 12, 2005 Author Share Posted August 12, 2005 lmao! yeah.. last time I play captain-save-a-hoe to a bug! (that's how I broke the needle).. my speedo NEVER worked since I got the Pathy.. always like 25mph out n stuff... hehehe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelmanLS1 Posted August 12, 2005 Share Posted August 12, 2005 My '95 does not have any airbags. My guess is every other '94 and '95 out there do not have airbags either. Can anyone prove me otherwise? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted August 12, 2005 Author Share Posted August 12, 2005 Maybe in certain states they're mandatory with manufacture? :confused: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelmanLS1 Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 Maybe in certain states they're mandatory with manufacture? :confused: I don't think so. These were made in Japan and I don't think they would make them differant just for a different state in the US. The write-up is very good though, complete with pictures. Someday I'll get around to a Grant wheel and I'm sure this will be a useful How-To. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
statikuz Posted December 25, 2005 Share Posted December 25, 2005 yep, i'm on this project right now too, got as far as getting the horn pad off, moved onto the puller and couldn't find any bolts that would thread into those holes; the bolts that came with the puller didn't quite work. anyone know what size those bolts might be so i don't have to buy five different kinds at home depot tomorrow? =) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted December 26, 2005 Author Share Posted December 26, 2005 (edited) From step 2: Step 2: Pop the wheel nut. It is a 19mm or 3/4 socket (I used 3/4). it should not be real tight. After popping the nut off, go get yerself a lil puller. I am not 100% sure what metric size to use, but I kinda used standard bolts cuz basically I am not keeping the OEM wheel..in the end, using the std bolts didn't cause any harm.. they were 5/16th (Chevy guys.. you understand?). Edited December 26, 2005 by Slick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
statikuz Posted December 26, 2005 Share Posted December 26, 2005 (edited) from my original post "couldn't find any bolts that would thread into those holes" i figured it out though, no worries =) might have been the same setup as yours but i couldn't tell. due to the structure of the steering wheel, the bars that make the frame go behind those threaded holes, making for a hole that's only three or four threads deep... so the bolts i was using were the right size and they were threading as far in as they would go. ended up just running them all the way in and then using the middle bolt on the puller to pull the wheel... might either be a perfectly acceptable way to do it or a perfectly acceptable way to screw up the steering shaft but it seems to have worked out okay. Edited December 27, 2005 by statikuz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted January 6, 2006 Share Posted January 6, 2006 Just a note: I didn't need to use my puller at all. I just loosened the nut up a few turns and gave a few hard whacks on the backside of the steering wheel rim and it popped right off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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