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Tap Near Piston


RedPath88
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In the last two weeks I have been hearing a ever so slight "tap" but could not pinpoint its location. In the last two day's the tap has become a bit louder.

 

So today a friend and I did some more looking (well "listening”) around and it seems to be loudest a little below the head at cylinder #1.

 

Maybe a wrist pin?

Is so, please fill me in on any experience you have with such a problem, including what was done to correct it or what amount and type of damaged occurred from its failure.

.

I have heard from some that it's not something that needs to be fixed "right now" but others say that it does. I see it as a "Yes it does" but that could be a problem, the path is my only viable transportation right now and I drive just short of 100 miles a day... sometimes more.

 

 

Any and all info or advice on this matter will be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks :aok:

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The tap occurs only after the engine has warmed up and then slowly starts to build in volume. It's is a consistent tap that increases/decreases with engine RPM.

 

Exhaust crossed my mind, but I am not convinced of that... though the exhaust noise has increased of the past two months or so.

 

Another thought, although it does seem to be louder below the head (hard to tell because the volume difference is nominal at best) perhaps a bad lifter…

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Hey Red, I'd suspect exhaust (manifold leak obviously), valves, then motor in that order. How many miles on the motor ?? Had it been reasonably maintained and do you treat it nicely or do you rev the piss out of it. Have you tried the old 'put a screw driver on something and put your ear on the end of it and listen' trick ? That can help a lot. A metalic noise from the engine is easily discernable from exhaust this way. If you ever see stethiscopes anywhere cheap, BUY THEM ! They help out a lot. I passed by a set about 1 year ago without thinking and have been cursing it ever since !!

 

B

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Hmm, starts quiet and then gets louder? So it varies with temperature...

Oil thins out as it heats up... and metal expands and fits change with temp...

 

A somewhat inconclusive, but quick and easy diagnostic check I use:

Change the oil and see if the noise behavior changes. Use the heaviest grade of oil the manual recommends. Or just drain off a quart and add a thickener like Lucas Oil Stabilizer.

If no change at all, more likely exhaust or something like that.

If it goes away and stays away for quite a while, I suspect a leaky lifter that is going out or a sloppy bearing of some kind.

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Slick...

.....Checked under the valve cover last night after it cooled.. Nothing seemed to be loose but I'll inspect it again today.

.....I am not totally sure that it's in the bottom end.

 

B...

.....It's less than a 100 miles from 290K

.....Have one, got it cheap a while back when it was even cheaper (on sale) from my local Harbor Freight. Clicky!

 

MWS...

.....Changed the oil two day's ago.. but did not use a heavier grade or additive. I may have to try that.

 

 

 

Today it was suggested by a couple parts stores, that I pull the plug wire to the cylinder in question. If the tap quiets down or stops completely it's in the bottom end. If not, then it's top end. I tried it and nothing changed, other than the engine idling down a little.

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Have one, got it cheap a while back when it was even cheaper (on sale) from my local Harbor Freight.

 

So, what did the 'scope tell you ? Personally, I buy VERY little from HF. The vast majority of it is crap. I actually bought a hand sledge there, and when I went to use it, I learned that it wasn't even case hardened !! Just a lump of iron on a stick, lol. Keep us updated please...

 

B

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Have one, got it cheap a while back when it was even cheaper (on sale) from my local Harbor Freight.

 

So, what did the 'scope tell you ? Personally, I buy VERY little from HF. The vast majority of it is crap. I actually bought a hand sledge there, and when I went to use it, I learned that it wasn't even case hardened !! Just a lump of iron on a stick, lol. Keep us updated please...

 

B

That's the thing about it, using the scope I can't exactly pinpoint if it's top or bottom... just that it is apparently cylinder #1. But now I am leaning more towards the top end.

 

I knew it was not of the greatest quality when I bout it, but figured it was probably better than nothing at all.

 

As for HF, your right.. you really need to be sure of an item before you buy it. Some things are worth the money but many are not. :shrug:

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A crappy stethiscope is 10x better than none ! Hmm, I think you are past the point of web diagnosis. Try the thick oil bit, and keep informing us of any observations, someone may key in from personal experience... Good Luck Bud !

 

B

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OK tracked it down to the intake lifter, rocker arm and/or valve on piston #1.

 

My rocker arm was gummed up some so I cleaned and freed that up, but the tap is still present. Both lifters on that cylinder show signs of abnormal wear. But the exhaust lifter on cylinder #5 shows the most abnormal wear of all of them.

 

So it looks like I have three lifters to replace and while in there I might as well clean everything

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OK tracked it down to the intake lifter, rocker arm and/or valve on piston #1.

 

My rocker arm was gummed up some so I cleaned and freed that up, but the tap is still present. Both lifters on that cylinder show signs of abnormal wear. But the exhaust lifter on cylinder #5 shows the most abnormal wear of all of them.

 

So it looks like I have three lifters to replace and while in there I might as well clean everything

-bounce- YAAAAAAAAAY!! I got it right! I'm so clever! *gloats for a quick moment*.. as Dave read this he said you should check/look at the push rods to make sure they're not excessively worn. :aok:

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Ok after pricing lifters the best I found locally was about $25ea... high end was almost $40 :blink:

 

Based on that price I only planned on replacing the one that showed wear and two that showed possible problems.. Both of these were on the #1 piston, which was the problem area.

 

Normally I don't call the dealer for prices on something that I can get elsewhere, because in my experience dealer prices are almost always higher.

 

Today on my way home from work I decided to make the call anyway.. I mean, what could it hurt? First dealer just under $16.. hmm I like that. (Olympia Nissan) But that was not the dealer I meant to call, I chose the wrong phone book entry in my cell (...yes I have dealers numbers in my cell phone :shrug: ).

 

So then I called the dealer I originally intended too (Puyallup Nissan). They usually have the lowest price amongst dealers and were actually only a few miles from me at the time. They had a full set in stock and the price was $13.83ea. So I stopped there and picked up 6 of them… enough to replace all of them on the right side of the engine. By replacing them all, I "hopefully" won't have to go back in to replace anymore (I'll replace the other side another time).

 

Anyway, I took it all apart, cleaned the rockers, rocker arms and lifter guides. Replaced the lifters, lubed it all up good and reassembled.

 

It started right up and after reaching operating temperature the tap did not start. I let it run for nearly a half hour after that and still nothing. Took it for a test drive and I swear that I could hear a tap every now and then. Perhaps it's just all in my head.... I hope any way. :laugh:

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That seems a bit odd... How does the cam look ? What do you mean by abnormal wear ? Can you take a picture ??

 

B

The CAM looks ok (It is maybe 1.5yrs old)

 

Below is a pic, not the greatest. Camera sucks so I had to use my scanner to get the image.

 

E/I1 have marks/flat spots on them. E3 and I5 also have a couple.

 

E5 is by far in the worst shape. it's kind of hard to see but running left to right and a little top to bottom (middle of lifter), is a depression.

Lifters.JPG

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Yes, it is a little hard to see... ;) I believe I can make out the marks you mention though. Thanks for the picts !

 

Glad you caught that and it was just a top end easy fix. I like easy fixes !! :D

 

B

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