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Msd Ignition Installation


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Calling all mechanically inclined people!

 

Here is my brand new MSD Ignition System:

msd6mb.th.jpg

msd10zb.th.jpg

 

I’m a little bit confused about how I’m supposed to hook it up. Here’s the diagram they gave me. It is the same thing, except I used paint to recreate it because I could not take a clear picture of it.

diagram6mz.th.png

 

We’ll start with the basics. These two wires go to the battery. That’s a dead give-away.

msd26uk.th.jpg

 

The next connection. Orange and Black (see picture below) are supposed to hook up to the terminals of the coil. Wait a minute! I don’t have any terminals! I talked to 88 awhile back and he said I have to splice into the wires leading into it.

msd36uy.th.jpg

 

Because black is usually negative, I figure that black goes to black, and orange goes to blue (see picture below). Correct me if I’m wrong. So far so good?

msd53sx.th.jpg

 

Here’s the tricky part. When you look at the diagram, you see that the purple and green wires (see picture below) connect to my magnetic pickup in the distributer.

msd48ge.th.jpg

 

The magnetic what?! I found these wires going into the distributer. Tell me if they are at all relevant.

msd66dc.th.jpg

msd78wz.th.jpg

 

If you look back at the diagram, I also have a red and a white wire coming from the MSD (not pictured). They are the same gauge as the black and orange ones leading to the coil. Red goes to switched 12 volts? Please explain if you can. And white goes to amplifier output? I’ll need that one explained as well. Also, please note that you can only use either the white wire or the green/purple combo. I have a feeling I don’t use the green/purple combo.

 

Okay… Phew! To wrap things up, I know that this is a difficult thing to explain over the internet. Maybe if you guys can take pictures and circle (in paint) what I should be looking at, that would be awesome!

 

 

For the people who have no idea what this thing does, it boosts about 10 HP and 14 ft/lbs of torque. It also increases MPG (so I hear) and helps the engine idle better. Please note that this setup requires high-performance spark plug wires. I think they have to be hollow-core or something like that. My wires come in tomorrow.Yippie!

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Red goes to switched 12 volts

That's called "key on" menaing it is hot (+) when the ignition switch is in "start" or "run". If it was connected to the battery (+), the engine would continue to run even if you turn the key to off. You may need to get a digital meter to find it.

Because black is usually negative, I figure that black goes to black, and orange goes to blue (see picture below). Correct me if I’m wrong. So far so good?

While you have the meter out you can verify the coil (+) & (-) .

And white goes to amplifier output

That should be the original wire going to the (-) side of the coil, if I'm not mistaken.

 

Suggestion: get a coil connector and plug from the junk yard to use for your splices. This will ease the installation and allow you to bypass the MSD should you ever have problems.

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I was thinking I'd get an MSD Blaster coil if I was to replace my current coil.

 

Anyways, so what you're saying is I don't need the purple/green wires? I didn't think I'd use them.

 

That should be the original wire going to the (-) side of the coil, if I'm not mistaken.

 

So I splice both the white and the (We're guessing) black into the negative on the coil? I don't think I'm reading you correctly.

Edited by wheelmanLS1
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First, I am not providing any guarantee that this is correct - my last MSD was on a point ignition, though I have also converted points to solid state and magnetic pickup.

 

Unless this MSD is designed to work with the existing trigger, which I seriously doubt, it will be replacing some functionality of the current system. Based on what you have described, it will be inline, but not parallel to the original amp / coil. So, the trigger from the amp (equivelent in function to points & condesor) signals the MSD which in turn triggers the coil. The MSD is place between the amp and the coil, whereas originally the amp feed the coil. Does that make sense?

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Okay... I really appreciate the help. But please speak English. I don't need to know how it works, I just need to know where to put the wires.

 

Even with the explanation, I have no idea what to attach the white and red wires to.

 

Maybe if I took a picture of the engine bay and you can circle (in paint) what I need to be looking at. Would that work?

 

Again, I really appreciate your help!

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Well, I thought I did. Let's see if my keyboard graphics are still any good.

Original:

------> >------- (+) | coil |

------> >------- (-) |..........|

 

With MSD:

------> >---red---------- | MSD | ---orange----> >-------- (+) | coil |

------> >---white------- | ......... | ----black-----> >--------- (-) | ....... |

Edited by Animal
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Oh ok. I think I get it.

 

Instead of splicing into the wires in the coil and combining the orange and black to them, I completely redirect from the blue to the red(on MSD) and the black to the white(on MSD).

 

Then I put the orange(on MSD) and black(on MSD) to the blue and the black on the coil to the already cut wires.

 

I'm going to try a diagram in Paint. Then I'll come back and edit the post with the picture...

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Do you think Nissan significantly change the coil connections between '93 and '95?

This is also the wrong vehicle, but Nissan, unlike many manufacturers tended to stick with what worked and prior to '96 I didn't believe there had been any major differences in ignition.

 

Information on MSD in Nissans is scarce.

 

EDIT: But from what I have seen, you will need an adapter if you want the factory tach to work on an 88 (not sure about other years).

Edited by Animal
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From what I understand, the ignition system did not change throughout production of the WD21. 88pathoffroad needed a tach adapter, so yes, GrimGreg you will need an adapter. I'm installing this tonight and I'll let you guys know how it went.

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The MSD should go AFTER the power transistor and BEFORE the coil, yes. A tach adapter is needed for the tach to work. Mine isn't hooked up right now, so I couldn't take pics or tell you exactly which wires go where, but the instructions are pretty clear if you take everything into context. I'm away from home right now, but when I get home I can post a scan of my old MSD instructions.

 

By the way, I doubt the 10 HP number, it's less than that. I'd say more like 5-7 tops.

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Okay, MSD is installed. I found the best place to mount the box was to the passenger-side of the battery. The battery must be moved 1.5 inches toward the driver’s side. Coincidentally, there are already holes on the battery tray to move the tie-down assembly over exactly 1.5 inches. The box is now in a place so every wire can easily reach its destination. The box is only being held on by 3 screws, but that’s more than enough. Here are some pictures:

 

zmsd21yl.th.jpg

 

zmsd2wb.th.jpg

 

My nice new Taylor performance wires, and the tubing used to cover my spliced wires. I think it looks very nice.

 

zmsd43hu.th.jpg

 

zmsd75rk.th.jpg

 

I did not need a tach adapter as I suspected. 88 did, so you may need one. Since your car can run without the tachometer working, just install the system by itself and if your tachometer doesn’t work, then order the part. My local performance store wanted $40 for the tach adapter, but truckperformance.com has them for $25. Call them up, the part is not on their website. Part # 8910EIS

 

Second, the above diagram is wrong! Blue was negative and black was positive. The young gun learned his lesson that black isn’t always negative.

 

I’ll have to agree with 88, I don’t think I got 10 HP. I felt improvement mostly in the low end, I think I may have gotten 10 ft/lbs of torque (just a guess).

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so is there soon to be a full writeup / install guide so those of us who didn't follow this discussion can do it without blowing ourselves up? ;)

You can derive all the information you need from this thread. But I can do a fancy write-up if you want me to.... maybe something to pin?

 

The MSD Ignition has an optional theft-deterrent switch feature. Basically, you mount a hidden switch under the dash. When the switch is flipped one way, the car won't start. When flipped the other way, it starts and runs normally. I don't how many of you remember 'Back To The Future II', but when the '55 Biff says the the older Biff, "How'd you start my car? Only I know how to start my car!" I figure he had something like this. I'm almost done with it... I'll take some pictures tomorrow or so.

 

Although MPG gains are minimal, I'll keep track this week and see if I changed at all.

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yeah, you ought to do a full writeup and it can get pinned somewhere, so when this thread gets lost in the archives we don't have to revisit it when people say "so how do i put msd to my pathy" =D

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Nice write up on the revised, clean version.

Did you change the coil as well? I'm asking because I got thinking about:

1) recommendation for wire change and

2) 88pathoffroad's recomendation to regap the plugs

Both of these suggest higher secondary output, which means MSD is supplying higher primary input. This will be an additional strain on the stock coil which appears somewhat prone to failure with the stock ignition. Now if someone came up with a heat sink for the coil .... hmm, just had an idea ...

 

Now where was I ... Oh yeah, good write up. :aok:

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MSD Installation manual says a new coil is not necessary, but what do they know about Pathfinders? I am getting a MSD Blaster, which is a high performance coil. That way I can have my ignition exactly the way I want it. I replaced my spark plugs about a month ago with Bosch +4, so other than the coil, my ignition is good to go.

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