Could be the end

[FeelthePathos95]

So the '94 had been operating fine tho with rust and various minor things going wrong, but now engine may be goner.

Drove it the other day on errands and it seemed fine, no warning lights, nothing unusual.

Got out to start it again after making my second stop and crank but no start.

Had it towed and shop says timing belt not moving, appears damaged.

So that raises the obvious question of pistons/valve damage, seized engine. They said they could put a new belt on and see what happens, but that would be the $1,000 gamble that doesn't pay off.

Because this happened on a start and not while driving, I do wonder if the valves and pistons never got the chance to slam together?

Curious what others think.

[gamellott]

When I did the heads on mine, it was around $500 just in parts alone because I replaced the water pump and timing belt as well. All of that is interference (Not the water pump) to pulling the heads.

 

From what all I know about this, you've probably got some bent valves. The pistons may be ok though. At this point, it's more of a labor of love vs being economically justified, or whatever your reason, especially if you're paying a shop to do it. If you're paying a shop to do it, you're probably looking at a couple thousand dollars just in Labor alone. OTOH, if you have the time and inclination, it could be a valuable learning experience. 

[Slartibartfast]

Failing at startup is probably the best case scenario for not bending a valve. You might've gotten lucky. Don't know that I'd bet a grand on that, though.

 

Before throwing a belt on it, I would stick a borescope down the plug holes and see if you can find any obvious valve marks on the pistons. I did that on a VW once, told us real quick that the engine wasn't worth messing with. (That one let go at highway speed.) If you don't see valve marks on the pistons, throw a belt at it (+1 for doing it yourself!) and see if it hits on all six.

[FeelthePathos95]

Don't have the time or confidence in my abilities to do it myself.

And yes, it would be great to spend the $1,000 and have it fire up OK and that be the end of it.

But probably more likely I'd be out the $1K with nothing to show for it but an engine that is an oversized paperweight.

Leaning against doing it for that reason and because with advancing rust and other smaller things going wrong, feels like I should move on, offer the car on Craigslist for someone who might want to part it or take the chance on repair themselves if they are handy with a wrench.

Might look to upgrade to a used Armada that has more cargo capacity, bells, whistles and (gasp!) airbags.

Will keep lurking on the forum and maybe someday pick up a used Pathfinder again.

I've driven one for 30 years now, having bought one new in 1995 and only gotten rid of it in 2014 due to advacing frame rust. This current one I bought over this board at that time from (former?) member ahardbody. Been a great truck - lasting 11 years for a $2,500 purchase.

[gamellott]

Yea, it's a gamble, and probably hard to justify if you're paying a mechanic to do the work. The timing belt kit, itself, is not that expensive. However, it is super labor intensive. Considering the age, and likely salt on the roads, you'll probably run into cost over runs with breaking fasteners and trying to repair those as well. 

[FeelthePathos95]

Oh, gawd! So much salt on the roads where I live in winter.

Just a car body killer.

[gamellott]

Sooo... we have planned obsolescence from the car manufacturer's and forced obsolescence from the govt in many places. Fortunately we don't have much salt put down here in western Washington. This is the place is where old vehicles go to survive the salt and corrosion... most of the time...

[Slartibartfast]

Yeah, it's tough to justify when you know the rest of it's tired. I gave up on my '95 due to frame rot.

[FeelthePathos95]

Might be turning to the Pacific Northwest or the West in general for the next used vehicle.

They tend to be in much better shape than anything you find in the Midwest.

[gamellott]

2 hours ago, FeelthePathos95 said:

Might be turning to the Pacific Northwest or the West in general for the next used vehicle.

They tend to be in much better shape than anything you find in the Midwest.

I did take a trip to a salvage yard and one donor was completely covered in rust on the frame and chassis. I think the body was ok.... I have a feeling it was a transplant from somewhere else. Mine, that I believe has been here the entire time, has some rust, but nothing catastrophic. They used to just throw down sand. Now they throw down some liquid stuff that appears to be vile on aluminum. 

Edited March 24 by gamellott
grammar

[adamzan]

6 hours ago, FeelthePathos95 said:

Might be turning to the Pacific Northwest or the West in general for the next used vehicle.

They tend to be in much better shape than anything you find in the Midwest.

Yep, and I remember when you bought that truck from Tony, it was mint! I don't dare drive mine in the salt here in Ontario. Even sitting in storage has caused some corrosion it wouldn't normally have.

4 hours ago, gamellott said:

I did take a trip to a salvage yard and one donor was completely covered in rust on the frame and chassis. I think the body was ok.... I have a feeling it was a transplant from somewhere else. Mine, that I believe has been here the entire time, has some rust, but nothing catastrophic. They used to just throw down sand. Now they throw down some liquid stuff that appears to be vile on aluminum. 

That stuff is liquid salt brine or calcium chloride. It is even worse than standard rock salt as it will creep into the crevices and really fskc things up. I wish they would stop using it as it is horrible for the water table like salt.

[gamellott]

14 hours ago, adamzan said:

Yep, and I remember when you bought that truck from Tony, it was mint! I don't dare drive mine in the salt here in Ontario. Even sitting in storage has caused some corrosion it wouldn't normally have.

That stuff is liquid salt brine or calcium chloride. It is even worse than standard rock salt as it will creep into the crevices and really fskc things up. I wish they would stop using it as it is horrible for the water table like salt.

I don't really know what that stuff is. I have not had any significant issues with corrosion on anything short of surface corrosion on aluminum. I imagine I'll find out more on the aluminum whenever I get the engine and transmission finally sealed up. Right now, they look pretty clean, probably because it's getting a constant slow flush of oil on the bottom of the transmission... That will be one of the final projects to seal this baby up!!

 

The heads were cleaned a couple of years ago, and they still look immaculate as the day I re-installed them. My Polaris Slingshot, OTOH, Looks like SH!T under the hood.