Manual Transmission won't detach from engine ( 2001 Pathfinder VG35 )

[IRONFIST]

Hey everyone, 

I'm finally working on my Pathfinder build and am having the silliest issue. 

First off this is an off road build I'm working on, I already have a 100 series ( LX470 ) for over-landing but this Pathfinder is going to be my fun weekend warrior vehicle.

The build is a 2002 Pathfinder LE, it has a a blown engine but otherwise solid and minimal rust vehicle.  This vehicle I bought for this build specifically.

The donor vehicle is my 2001 Pathfinder SE with the Manual transmission, this was my daily driver in college but when I was teaching my sister how to drive manual in it she toasted the clutch,  when I got under it to get working on the clutch I realized that rust had eaten away far too much of the vehicle and so it has now become the donor vehicle.  So before anyone gets mad this is me saving one Pathfinder with another.  

So far I've gotten the engine out of the 2002 Pathfinder LE,  and I've pulled both the engine and trans out of the 2001 Pathfinder.  For some reason though I can't get the transmission to slide off the engine. Any ideas?  I was told there were a couple cotter pins I needed to take out and I reached in and got those, but I don't see what else is keeping it on?  

[Slartibartfast]

I imagine the same rust that ate the body has gotten in around any dowel pins it might have, and/or between the input shaft and the pilot bearing. I would soak those with penetrating oil, try a little heat, give it another go. Is it locked up tight like the bolts are still in, or is it wiggling but catching somewhere?

 

IIRC the intake is different auto/manual (one has power valves and one doesn't), so don't throw out the dead engine until you're sure you've got everything you need off it!

[IRONFIST]

I was actually wondering if I had to swap over those power valves or just keep the manual as is,  seems like power valves are a bit of a liability? 

[hawairish]

Speculating here, but them only thing holding them together should just be the bellhousing bolts.  I can't imagine how cotter pins could be used here.  But, any misalignment between engine and transmission when trying to split them will cause binding on the alignment dowels and input shaft.  Super important to make sure things are as straight as possible.  How do you have things supported when trying to split them?

 

Are there any tabs or gaps where a pry bar can fit to start splitting them?  It's common for those to exist.  A dead blow hammer is also a good tool to have here to smack the bellhousing without damaging it.

 

So in the end, are you just mating the 2001 engine to the 2002 AT, or are you converting to manual?  As Slartibartfast mentioned, you'll need parts engine parts (like the lower intake plenum for sure, and maybe the intake manifold).  If doing a manual swap...I imagine that would be far more involved, but having the full donor helps tremendously.

[Slartibartfast]

I would expect the computer to get upset if the power valves weren't present. Loctite the screws while it's apart, should be fine after that.

 

Manual swap might be tough to find parts for. A guy on here a while back had a hell of a time trying to find a new flywheel for his VQ R50.

 

I had a look at the MT section of the service manual, looks like they want you to remove the crank position sensor from the bellhousing before pulling the trans. Maybe that's hanging up? It also shows a snap pin on the withdrawal shaft (guessing that's the pin you pulled). The manual's a free download from Nicoclub if you haven't picked that up yet.

Edited September 23, 2024 by Slartibartfast

[hawairish]

I would think the computer wouldn't like them missing...but I'm not sure how it would know?  There are no sensors on the valves themselves, but maybe it'd manifest as a vacuum leak, because that's what actuates the valves.

 

Just looked at the removal instructions in the MT section, too.  Honestly, I'm baffled by them.  It does say to remove the snap pin and withdrawal shaft, but also to remove the withdrawal lever (I really want to just call that the release fork!) and release bearing.  Pretty impossible to remove the bearing from the input shaft when it's obstructed by the clutch, flywheel, and engine, let alone doing so through a small hole on the side of the transmission.  But I can't even imagine how removing any of that stuff would be necessary because they're all connected to the bellhousing/transmission.  The install has all the parts reassembled before mating it to the engine, so seems really odd why they'd need to be removed at all.  Nissan doing dumb things again.

[Nick.Holland78]

I have a hydrolocked VQ35 engine, auto transmission. I can't remove the transmission from the engine the 'normal' way since the crankshaft won't turn. Can't unbolt the torque converter.

 

Decided to drop the entire drivetrain out the bottom. I posted a few pics from today on Facebook. 

https://www.facebook.com/share/p/i3yeRwYLR69cEhrB/?mibextid=xfxF2i

 

Detaching connections was the same as removing transfer case, transmission, then engine except for the difficult to reach bolts. Took off the front facia. Detached the lower control arms and steering tie rods. Then sat the engine down on the subframe. Jacking the truck so high just took slow incremental care.

[Lock]

On 9/24/2024 at 7:46 AM, hawairish said:

I would think the computer wouldn't like them missing...but I'm not sure how it would know?  There are no sensors on the valves themselves, but maybe it'd manifest as a vacuum leak, because that's what actuates the valves.

 

Just looked at the removal instructions in the MT section, too.  Honestly, I'm baffled by them.  It does say to remove the snap pin and withdrawal shaft, but also to remove the withdrawal lever (I really want to just call that the release fork!) and release bearing.  Pretty impossible to remove the bearing from the input shaft when it's obstructed by the clutch, flywheel, and engine, let alone doing so through a small hole on the side of the transmission.  But I can't even imagine how removing any of that stuff would be necessary because they're all connected to the bellhousing/transmission.  The install has all the parts reassembled before mating it to the engine, so seems really odd why they'd need to be removed at all.  Nissan doing dumb things again.

 

I know this is an old thread and OP has probably resolved the issue, but I wanted to share that I get where they're coming from in the FSM.

 

The Pathfinder unlike other VQ35DE cars has a pull clutch, so the release/throwout bearing 'clicks and locks' into place when you install the transmission. When using the clutch, it pulls the release bearing/pressure plate fingers away from the engine to release, instead of a regular push clutch/pressure plate which obviously push the fingers towards the engine.

 

Apparently this provides more clutch force with less clutch pedal effort but it's a more complicated system. This is also why the Pathfinder has a unique flywheel that no other VQ35DE uses. Can't use a 350Z flywheel - I tried, the surface is a few inches too 'high'. 

 

So reading the FSM it looked weird and complicated to me. But when I did it it makes sense, all you're doing is letting the withdrawal lever/fork assembly all fall out and off of the release bearing, so the trans can be removed without being stuck on the release bearing. The release bearing stays locked in the pressure plate, and you remove it once the trans is off by lifting the collar and it comes out. It seems to be designed for multiple reinstalls.

 

The fork hole is pretty small, but you can get at the pin with small pliers and then it all falls apart easily.

 

But having installed it 3x because I bought the wrong flywheel twice, you can also just push the collar at the base of the release bearing/pressure plate in towards the engine with a long flathead screwdriver, and the release bearing is 'unlocked' and pops out still held in place by the release lever/fork too. I don't know how to post quality pictures here yet but they'd describe it a lot better.

Edited January 23 by Lock

[hawairish]

22 hours ago, Lock said:

 

I know this is an old thread and OP has probably resolved the issue, but I wanted to share that I get where they're coming from in the FSM.

 

The Pathfinder unlike other VQ35DE cars has a pull clutch, so the release/throwout bearing 'clicks and locks' into place when you install the transmission. When using the clutch, it pulls the release bearing/pressure plate fingers away from the engine to release, instead of a regular push clutch/pressure plate which obviously push the fingers towards the engine.

 

Apparently this provides more clutch force with less clutch pedal effort but it's a more complicated system. This is also why the Pathfinder has a unique flywheel that no other VQ35DE uses. Can't use a 350Z flywheel - I tried, the surface is a few inches too 'high'. 

 

So reading the FSM it looked weird and complicated to me. But when I did it it makes sense, all you're doing is letting the withdrawal lever/fork assembly all fall out and off of the release bearing, so the trans can be removed without being stuck on the release bearing. The release bearing stays locked in the pressure plate, and you remove it once the trans is off by lifting the collar and it comes out. It seems to be designed for multiple reinstalls.

 

The fork hole is pretty small, but you can get at the pin with small pliers and then it all falls apart easily.

 

But having installed it 3x because I bought the wrong flywheel twice, you can also just push the collar at the base of the release bearing/pressure plate in towards the engine with a long flathead screwdriver, and the release bearing is 'unlocked' and pops out still held in place by the release lever/fork too. I don't know how to post quality pictures here yet but they'd describe it a lot better.

 

That's a very helpful explanation!  Honestly, I've never heard of a pull-type clutch like that.  And very typical of Nissan to make this truck an absolute bastard in one more way (we already know this is the case with the R50...it shares practically NOTHING with any other VQ35DE model, except the exhaust manifold gaskets basically).

 

Looking at pictures on RA for 02 R50s, I see what you mean.  "Diaphragm style".  Wild.  I never knew.  But yeah, that makes a lot more sense now.  And that clutch literally only cross-refs to 01-02 R50.  How stupid...

 

Lastly, welcome to NPORA!  Great info for an early post. As far as image hosting goes...there is none.  If you want to post pictures here, you'll need to use a 3rd party image host and then link to it in the post (pasting a URL in the text field should auto load the image, similar to how I posted the RockAuto pic above).  

[Pimshady57]

On 1/22/2025 at 11:08 PM, Lock said:

 But having installed it 3x because I bought the wrong flywheel twice, you can also just push the collar at the base of the release bearing/pressure plate in towards the engine with a long flathead screwdriver, and the release bearing is 'unlocked' and pops out still held in place by the release lever/fork too. I don't know how to post quality pictures here yet but they'd describe it a lot better.

I just got a 2001 myself and looks like the clutch is gone. All I get is vibration when foot is pretty much off the pedal. What else is that if I take my foot off in gear it won’t even stall. What flywheel did you find since there really seem to be little to no options? I’ve found that rock auto has the replacement for what I believe is OEM (exedy). Any info would be appreciated!

Edited February 20 by Pimshady57
Adding information

[Lock]

I bought a NOS "Nissan Genuine" clutch, which was just an Exedy so that's the one the buy. 

 

As for flywheels, yours might be okay if the rivets haven't dug into it. The workshop manual says the flywheels are not supposed to be surfaced because they're slightly conical, idea being the clutch will grab from the outside first for gentle engagement, but it doesn't really make a difference if its flat. Besides, the clutch wears into this shape over time anyway.

 

There's two versions of the VQ35DE R50 Pathfinder flywheel. The difference is the sensor tabs due to ECU upgrades.

 

Cable throttle, 01.2000 - 07.2001, (US and Canada) 123104W001  https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/123104w001  (sensor plate has like 200+ slots)

Electric throttle, 07.2002 - 2004 (Canada only) 123105W90A https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/123105w90a (sensor plate has 3x10 slots)

 

The only difference between the two flywheels is the sensor plates, which unbolt and are interchangeable (but not interchangeable with automatic torque converter sensor plates). The VG33 flywheels and clutches are not compatible. 

 

I have a used but good condition 200+ sensor tab (cable throttle model) flywheel, and also a 3x10 sensor plate, which I might post for sale at some point.

Edited February 20 by Lock

[Pimshady57]

5 hours ago, Lock said:

Cable throttle, 01.2000 - 07.2001, (US and Canada) 123104W001  https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/123104w001  (sensor plate has like 200+ slots)

Electric throttle, 07.2002 - 2004 (Canada only) 123105W90A https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/123105w90a (sensor plate has 3x10 slots)

When I look up my OEM part number for the flywheel it comes up as 12310-4W000. The one you pointed out was -4W001. The manuf stamp on my drivers door is 6/00, and even the link you sent states it should be the 4W000 when I put in my VIN. So I assume it’s different than yours due to my manuf date. 
 

As for clutch I think it’s PN KNS07-EXEDY

 

I know my RMS is leaking, so I am thinking of going all out while it’s already pulled apart. Anything else you would recommend replacing? 

[Lock]

The last digit on Nissan part numbers generally means minor differences for the same part, or a part upgrade/revision which is why it's 0 for the first year then 1 for the second, they probably made some small change-mid production. You can order the 0, but if 0 is NLA can likely get the 1 and it'll fit the same. Here's a good guide to Nissan Part Numbers

 

http://datsun1000.com/PageView.asp?PageID=72

 

There was an oil leak at the back of my engine too. I bought a new RMS but you have to drop the pan (and axle if 4wd) to replace it, and as some other posts here have said it's not usually the RMS that leaks but the RTV/sealant around the RMS holder plate that was applied badly or just got old. That was the case for me.

 

I applied a thick bead of sealant all around the gaps on the plate that holds the RMS, and that fixed the leaks for me. If I figure out a gallery I can post a before/after picture. 

 

Some people say to replace the gaskets on the rear coolant pipe when the trans is out as it's easy to access. If it's 4wd change your transfer fluid and the rear driveshaft output seal. Change whatever seals on the trans you can and check the reverse/neutral switches aren't leaking. My transfer case switches were working but leaking. Buy genuine - cheap copies aren't sized correctly, won't work, and are a pain to replace when it's back in. 

Edited February 21 by Lock

[Pimshady57]

On 2/20/2025 at 10:39 AM, Lock said:

I have a used but good condition 200+ sensor tab (cable throttle model) flywheel, and also a 3x10 sensor plate, which I might post for sale at some point.

Hi Lock, are you looking to sell your flywheel? I’m in the market for it as I found out mine is done for

[Lock]

11 hours ago, Pimshady57 said:

Hi Lock, are you looking to sell your flywheel? I’m in the market for it as I found out mine is done for

Sorry to hear, is there any chance of resurfacing? 

Unfortunately I sold my spare flywheel a couple of weeks ago to another forum member, so I'm all out.

I got mine from car-part.com by calling wreckers until one would pull it and ship it to me, maybe give that a shot.

[Pimshady57]

11 minutes ago, Lock said:

Sorry to hear, is there any chance of resurfacing? 

Unfortunately I sold my spare flywheel a couple of weeks ago to another forum member, so I'm all out.

I got mine from car-part.com by calling wreckers until one would pull it and ship it to me, maybe give that a shot.

Ah unfortunate! I dropped it off at a second place for a resurface so let’s hope it goes well! There are a few engines out there and I have numbers that I’d need to go call around for to see if they’ll split it from the engine.