Fusible link gauges and replacement

[awildbabyshark]

Hi,

 

     So I've been looking and looking for a suitable way to replace the links with something a bit easier to replace in the future. I've come up with 2 options,

 

1 is to replace with fuses of the same amps or 5 amps higher than the fusible link is rated.

 

2 keep fusible links but instead of a plastic connector make something where they connect with eyelet terminals to pop off and on when in a "side of road" or "off road" situation. 

 

Either way I need to know the amp rating of the fusible links, or at least the awg of the links. After searching online I've found a chart for Nissan fusible links that says 

 

Pink-30 amps

Green-40 amps

Red-50 amps

Yellow-60 amps

Black-80 amps

Yellow-100 amps

 

After more research I find an amperage rating chart for awg of wires, which I won't write because it's long and easy to find. So after cross referencing it seems that the green wire at 40 amps makes it a 12 gauge wire. Which it clearly is not big enough. I'm guessing it's a 16 gauge. 

 

But that's just it, I do not want to guess. I want not just me but all of us pathy lovers to be able to buy spools of fusible link and make spare links we can toss in quickly and easily, or fuses, of proper ratings. For that we must know the amperage or gauge of the black, green and pink wires please and thank you. 

[Slartibartfast]

The fuse links are intentionally undersized. That's what makes them the weak link, so they burn up before the harness does. Looks like they're usually four sizes smaller than the wiring they interrupt, which matches your observation that a wire which should be 12ga to take the rated amps appears to be 16ga.

 

Blade fuses would be more convenient, but might be tricky to size properly. They don't work the same as fuse links. Fuse links are slow-blow. A blade fuse might pop for brief overloads that the fuse link never noticed, and if you fixed this with a bigger fuse, it might not fail for a lower-but-sustained overload that would've taken out the fuse link. I'm not saying that it can't be done, or that it would definitely change the failure point enough to matter (surely it's not on a knife's edge if they trusted it to fuse links in the first place), but I don't know how far I'd trust it.

 

I've never had to replace a fuse link on mine, so I'm inclined to leave well enough alone. If I was going to reengineer them, I like your idea with the screw terminals. Make sure you get the special fuse link wire, sounds like its got special insulation so it doesn't start a fire when it blows.

[gamellott]

Yes, fusible links serve some kind of purpose and are slow blow. I burned one up when I crossed the terminals when trying to jump start a vehicle. It caused other problems, but that was 30some years ago and I don't remember everything I destroyed in the process.

 

What I really have noticed in everything that has fusible links, is that they typically get corroded over the years from exposure to battery acid. Just me? I don't know, but they are certainly a nuisance over time. Which is why I am a fan of sealed cell batteries!!!

[adamzan]

On 8/14/2023 at 8:32 PM, Slartibartfast said:

I've never had to replace a fuse link on mine, so I'm inclined to leave well enough alone. If I was going to reengineer them, I like your idea with the screw terminals. Make sure you get the special fuse link wire, sounds like its got special insulation so it doesn't start a fire when it blows.

I've taken enough of them out of JY trucks over the years that I don't worry about having to find them anymore. Always keep a set in the toolkit in the back.

 

OPs idea is good though, perhaps there's another way or another fuse type that would be a slow blow. Can you get slow blow blade fuses? What about this https://www.littelfuse.com/products/fuses/automotive-passenger-car/blade-fuses/299.aspx

[Slartibartfast]

^ That's a good idea! I didn't know slow-blow blade fuses were a thing.