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Front control arm bushing replacement


okanagan
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It’s probably easier to just replace the entire arms. I’d do ball joints etc. at the same time as you’ll have to pull them apart anyways to get the control arm off. 
 

I had a HELL of a time getting two of the rear bolts out. Grit collects on top of the subframe where the bolts thread and worked it’s way in as I was unthreading the bolts, galling the threads. I ran a rethreading tap before installing new bolts

and had no issues after that. 

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On 1/18/2021 at 1:31 PM, okanagan said:

Anyone have any experience replacing control arm (not trailing arm) bushings?  Mine are original and there is some cracking on the rear bushing.

 

Done it, didn't enjoy it.  I destroyed them out with a combination of drill bits through the rubber to get the metal bushing out, then a sawzall to surgically cut the outer shell just enough to punch/chisel the shell out.  It's a lot of work, and I only did it for poly bushing.  Using a floor press isn't an option unless you've got some pretty specific tools/holders because the flange of the bushing obstructs the tube, and the shape causes other problems; you can't press out from the backside either because the rest of the arm obstructs the press ram.

 

If you're just planning to put rubber bushings in, definitely just buy the complete arm.  If you want poly, prepare to work for it.

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Yup. Pretty unpleasant experience BUT the switch to poly ( I swapped all suspension bushings to poly) was worth the work in my opinion. The performance gain is a stark contrast to OEM rubber.  If you just want a OEM replacement get the whole arm. 

 

I had access to a fully equipped machine shop and made some "quick" fixtures to enable me to use a hydraulic press but it was not worth it in the end. One cocked sideways and started to damage the lip so I had to burn the rubber out (also very unpleasant) and bore the bushing housing. 

 

I'd argue that the odd design was intentional to generate revenue for Nissan via parts sales. 

 

Edited by TowndawgR50
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