BrianD Posted November 24, 2017 Share Posted November 24, 2017 The brakes failed today while wifey was driving on a busy shopping day street. I commend her for missing 2 cars and jumping the curb, driving over the lawn and turning right into an access road & coasting to a stop without hitting anyone. She missing the 1st car by ..??? and inch! I checked my dash cam footage and was amazed. The .avi files are too large to post. I had CAA tow it home. Just finished looking at one of the 3 lines on load sensing valve. The leaking brake line is routed above and around the frame. How the hell is anyone supposed to be able to work on this when U can barely even see it? How do U get a flaring tool up in there to fix it? There's hardly enuff room to turn a mini tubing cutter to even get started! Anyone do this b4? Shiezza! Where do I start with the repair? Too dark for pix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forsaken Posted November 25, 2017 Share Posted November 25, 2017 Just use a compression fitting. My previous pathfinder spent most of its life on salty roads, and all the rear brake lines rusted out. I got new ones and used compression fittings to splice everything back together. I know its not good practice to do this..... but sometimes, you gotto do what you gotto do. It held for almost 4 years until last week when I parked it for good and pulled the engine and trans out to put in a body with less rust. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citron Posted November 25, 2017 Share Posted November 25, 2017 Abandon the line and replace it. Run it in a more accessible area. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 Don't use compression fittings. Just buy a roll of brake line and run a whole new one. Shouldn't take that long. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johann_peralta Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 I ran a new stretch of brake line. Much easier! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianD Posted November 29, 2017 Author Share Posted November 29, 2017 Thanx guys - I did NOT use compression fittings. I replaced the 2 lines from the joiner block to the LSV and found the right rear line also leaking - replaced them all. The torch worked wonders! It took me almost an hour to get the one nut out of the aluminum joiner block cause the head stripped. Turning it with a greasy vise grip a 1/4 turn each time was brutal up in there on my back in the driveway. The weather was "warm" ( 17 C or 62 F) yesterday so that was good. I had wifey help with bleeding and all seemed good( it got too dark to finish the 2 front lines) then I started it and there's absolutely NO pedal at ALL now! WTF?! What happened?? What shud I do now? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianD Posted November 29, 2017 Author Share Posted November 29, 2017 oops..I forgot to mention, I broke the differential vent hose fitting off. Any suggestions to where to get another one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 Nissan has them, they're not very expensive. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citron Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 Still have air in the system. Bleed the front two lines. Make sure you keep the reservoir topped off between bleeds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianD Posted November 29, 2017 Author Share Posted November 29, 2017 Thanx again. I bled all 4 corners and still have no pedal. So I thot I'd check the rear 2 again - no bubbles. I got tons of bubbles from the right front...thot I finally found the prolm. I disconnected the ground from the battery b4 bleeding as directed in the FSM. Uhhhhhhmm.. what now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted November 30, 2017 Share Posted November 30, 2017 Did you bleed the ABS module? I know there's a bleeder there on the WD21, I'd expect the same on an R50. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianD Posted November 30, 2017 Author Share Posted November 30, 2017 WHHAAAAT!? NO! I did not know that! I'll check that tomorrow ,..and also check the master cylinder a s well. Like..thanx eh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted November 30, 2017 Share Posted November 30, 2017 Hopefully that does it! Looks like the LSV might have a bleeder on it, too. There should be a procedure in the service manual showing you what/where/what order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianD Posted November 30, 2017 Author Share Posted November 30, 2017 Yes I knew about that LSV bleeder but it's rusted clean off. I bled the system once B4 when a front line ruptured and got a good pedal. There is no bleeder valve on the ABS module tho. Thanx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianD Posted November 30, 2017 Author Share Posted November 30, 2017 STILL no pedal!! I bled the system for 3rd time! today hoping I'd get pedal ( someone told me I was doon it wrong) - NOPE. I put a light behind the master cylinder reservoir and pushed the pedal..BUBBLES! Lots of em! Big ones - small ones! So after lukn on line from Cardone ( the manufacturer) the guys says nver push the centre piston in more ..or less than, and 1" or you'll ruin the seals. So I'm pretty sure that's what's happened to mine. I ordered a new one from the local Hotspot Auto parts - $209 complete or $132 for one without the reservoir. I'll change it over tomorrow when the new one comes and give'em the old one for a $24 core charge refund. Finally hard to get line wrenches too - KW Surplus - $10 for 3 of 'em. Later 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjotrainbrain Posted November 30, 2017 Share Posted November 30, 2017 Ouch, that's an annoying expense. Hopefully it fixes your problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianD Posted December 2, 2017 Author Share Posted December 2, 2017 Ok - I was gonna get a new master but I thot I'd have a closer luk at this one 1st. I removed my master cylinder. Disassembled it expecting to find torn inner seals but it lukd like new...but it was dirty. I found that the diaphragm in the reservoir CAP has a small split in it. Cud THAT be prolm? Really? I crazy glued it until I can get a new one. So I cleaned all the parts with brake cleaner and air compressor. Re assembled it and attached lines hoses etc, and did a bench bleed. It seems to be workn just like the new ones I see on YouTube when they are doon their bleeds. Gonna reinstall and see what happens..maybe it was just full of dirt and or air...or is the diaphragm the prolm. I'm waiting for the outside temp to rise a bit b4 I have to crawl around on the asphalt again for bleeding the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianD Posted December 2, 2017 Author Share Posted December 2, 2017 I reinstalled my original master cylinder - bled all the brakes...had the negative ground removed from the battery to disable the antilock system. No brake pedal again!. Went an got a new master cylinder. Bled it and installed it. Bled 4 corners and STILL no brake pedal. After I start it it's like there's nothing attached to the pedal..no leaks! ..unbelievable!. I've bled he system FOUR times now! WHAT NOW!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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