Mbrianc Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Hello everyone! I recently bit the bullet and decided to do an electric fan conversion on my 02 pathfinder 4x4. I installed a proform 67014 "14 fan and a proform 67012 "12 inch fan with a derale 16738 controller. As far as the fans running, they turn on at my setting (190 degrees by my OBD tool.) The A/C override switch works as well. The problem is that when the hood is closed, the fans stay constantly on at idle. Open the hood and the fans run for about 30 seconds, shut off, and then cycle again as advertised. Close the hood, and once the fans turn on they don't shut off. I think the problem is related to the hot air underneath the hood being unable to escape. Anybody else have this problem after their conversion? And if so, how did you fix it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colinnwn Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 I didn't have that problem. Looks like that Derale is hard set to 180/165. 165 seems pretty low for a cut off. Mine cuts off at 177 by OBD. Also did you push the sensor through from the engine side and into the grille side next to the upper radiator inlet? That's how I did mine and saw where people had trouble that oriented it differently. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbrianc Posted February 16, 2017 Author Share Posted February 16, 2017 (edited) My controller is adjustable. I monitored my obd tool until it said the temp was 190, then turned the dial until the fans come on. Maybe I gave the wrong part number,I am away from my vehicle. I pushed the probe through from the engine bay out about two inches below the top hose. Edited February 16, 2017 by Mbrianc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbrianc Posted February 16, 2017 Author Share Posted February 16, 2017 My bad, it is the 16749 controller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbrianc Posted February 16, 2017 Author Share Posted February 16, 2017 My bad, it is the 16749 controller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Are you using any kind of shroud with your fans? If not, you are not pulling air through the entire radiator, reducing its efficiency, and some air being pulled through the radiator can then be pushed back through the areas not covered by the fans. Also, It does not appear that either model of the Proform fans you purchased will enough total CFM to keep the VQ35 reliably cool (especially if you're not using a shroud). If you are seeing this kind of issue now when temperatures are cool, it will be worse in the summer. For what it's worth, I used to run a Flex-a-Lite #295 fan (4600cfm) in my VG33 Pathfinder, and on very hot days (> 100°F), and the AC would stop blowing cold air the engine would run warm. I ended up reverting back to the stock fan because the disadvantages of using an e-fan were greater than any advantages. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbrianc Posted February 16, 2017 Author Share Posted February 16, 2017 No, there isn't a shroud. I had read that the stock fan pulled 3000 cfm at 5k engine speed. I figured that 2850 at idle to 3k rpm would be sufficient. I don't off-road and there is no towing package, so I have no plans for high rpm low speed applications. I was most certainly worried about August here in Arkansas. I had read posts from others with smaller fans get by just fine, and It looked like I would too until I closed my hood lol. The reason I wanted to do the efans is because my OEM clutch I replaced back in 2015 is on its way out again. And I found cracks in the blade this time. A new OEM clutch and fan are expensive if all I am going to get out of the clutch is 2 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbrianc Posted February 16, 2017 Author Share Posted February 16, 2017 (edited) So what could be done about a shroud? Edited February 16, 2017 by Mbrianc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Hmmm, that is odd that your clutch pack is dying so quickly. I've only replace the fan clutch on mine once (about 10 years ago), and I've got 193K miles on my rig. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbrianc Posted February 16, 2017 Author Share Posted February 16, 2017 (edited) I know. Damn thing cost me 200 bucks last time I bought one. But sure enough it is staying engaged and you can see where some of the oil has leaked out around the shaft. And now add the price of a fan blade on to that. Pissed me off. And I only have 175k on it. Edited February 16, 2017 by Mbrianc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 (edited) A new fan clutch runs $35-$90 at rockauto.com and I'm sure you can source a new fan for under $50. Well, anyway you already have some money invested in the e-fan solution, so you should try to follow it to completion to see if it meets your needs. Unfortunately I have no suggestions how to make a shroud for your application though. Edited February 16, 2017 by XPLORx4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbrianc Posted February 16, 2017 Author Share Posted February 16, 2017 Are suggesting aftermarket? I thought OEM was the route to go with the clutch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 For a 14-year-old vehicle, I don't believe that OEM is going to be any better than aftermarket for a fan clutch. Naturally, there are different quality levels for aftermarket, but I would have no problem not using OEM parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbrianc Posted February 16, 2017 Author Share Posted February 16, 2017 I'll keep that it mind if these fans don't pan out. I was advised on Nico forums a couple years back to not even bother with the aftermarket clutches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbrianc Posted February 16, 2017 Author Share Posted February 16, 2017 I'll keep that it mind if these fans don't pan out. I was advised on Nico forums a couple years back to not even bother with the aftermarket clutches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunsmith Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 For a shroud, try to find a aluminum cookie sheet pan as close to the size of the radiator as possible. Some creativity, a few tools and plenty of zip ties and I bet you could fashion a functional fan shroud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbrianc Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 Update: I have acquired a maxima fan shroud that pretty much just bolts up to the radiator. It has no fans in it, but a small amount of modification should make my electric fans fit it. Got it at a junkyard for 20 bucks! However, I did some more toying around with the controller settings and temp readings from the OBD. As I stated before, I set the fans to come on when the OBD reads 190 from the ECT. The fans cycle on and off with hood open, and stay on constant with the hood closed at idle. As a test I left the hood closed, waited for the fans to turn on, and then turned the heater on max when they started. The ECT went all they way down to 179 and the fans still wouldn't shut off until I opened the hood! What am I missing here? I originally suspected a bad temp probe, but I don't think it would just be bad with the hood closed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citron Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Can you monitor if the fans are on or off while driving? I imagine it is the hot air being trapped under the hood, and driving would help that. Take an infrared temp gun and check the temp next to the fan controller probe with the hood open and closed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jyeager Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 I assume that you are unable to separately adjust the shut-off temperature? What temp is your thermostat? It must not be a typical 190 degree thermostat. Regardless, you are using (or trying to use) radiator coolant temp to turn your fans on and off. I assume it's not cooling enough with the hood closed because the hot air it's pulling past the radiator has no where to go. If you were driving down the road you may not have any trouble with it turning off. Remember that just because the ECT hit 190 degrees, doesn't mean the radiator coolant temp was anywhere near that. If the engine hadn't circulated a full radiator's worth of coolant yet when you turned your dial to match the engine's 190 degree temp, the radiator could have been at 150 for all I know.... Just a thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbrianc Posted March 1, 2017 Author Share Posted March 1, 2017 (edited) The fan controller is adjustable by a small screw there is no indication on the screw what temp it is at, which is why I used and OBD tool. The thermostat is factory, no changes there. and the fans do shut off at speed. Edited March 1, 2017 by Mbrianc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acrobaat Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 Hi , I don't know if you have sorted your problem out and if i'm of topic , but i still like to suggest one more check you can do. It is about sufficient cooling efficiency of your radiator. Old or to some degree corroded radiators (i don't know if yours is new ) can block up and loos cooling efficiency and your fan could be forced to run to cool engine as heat is not dissipate adequately thru the radiator. If you have infra red thermometer check the temp near the top radiator hose and then near the bottom radiator hose as this is the hottest and the coldest point on your radiator and this should give an indication if your radiator is cooling. Best of luck 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbrianc Posted March 7, 2017 Author Share Posted March 7, 2017 Thank you for your input. I did consider that issue, so I flushed the radiator, changed the water pump, and the lower thermostat. While I haven't actually checked the exact temp of the lower hose, I can grab it and it's obvious that the radiator is cooling. It was before I changed those parts as well. At this point I am starting to think that the ambient temp under the hood is affecting the temp probe, or the airflow of the fans is seriously impeded once the hood is closed and the static pressure increases. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbrianc Posted March 7, 2017 Author Share Posted March 7, 2017 Thank you for your input. I did consider that issue, so I flushed the radiator, changed the water pump, and the lower thermostat. While I haven't actually checked the exact temp of the lower hose, I can grab it and it's obvious that the radiator is cooling. It was before I changed those parts as well. At this point I am starting to think that the ambient temp under the hood is affecting the temp probe, or the airflow of the fans is seriously impeded once the hood is closed and the static pressure increases. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 This is probably a silly question, but do the fans run when the hood is closed but the engine is cold? Assuming you're reading the OBDII ECT sensor temperature, as the engine warms up, at what temperature do the fans begin operating? That might help you troubleshoot further. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbrianc Posted March 7, 2017 Author Share Posted March 7, 2017 They turn on when the engine warms up. Been a couple of mornings already that I drive all the way to work and they never started even once. Yes I am watching the ECT sensor. The guage on the dash will be at the middle from anywhere from 160 to 210 lol. Nowhere near accurate. So I ran the engine until the ECT reported 190 degrees and then slowly adjusted the screw on the controller until the fans started. I really like the way it runs with that clutch fan removed. And it doesn't overheat at all, but we aren't into the summer yet either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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