VHerring Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 Ok, so in my adventure of trying to replace the #5 injector, I now can't get the coolant drain plug to break free on the passenger side of the engine block! I have sprayed the h*** out of it with PB blaster, but because of where it sits, I can't get to it without having to use my swivel extension ( What I wouldn't give for a set of 90% ratcheting box wrenches!) Now I know that there has been some kind of accident, this thing is dented up pretty good on the passenger side and the brush guard and bumper are bent too, but should the drain plug be so close to the motor mount on that side that there is no clearance for a ratchet on that side? Any tips or ideas for getting this darn thing broke loose? Can I take a coal chisel and hammer to it a couple of times without a huge risk of breaking anything? Or, even better, do I even need to drain that side if I already pulled the plug on the driver's side? If not, I won't even worry about it and can just finish pulling my lines loose from the plenum! TIA! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCWD21 Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 Mine were stuck in there really tight from scale deposits and rust. I had to heat the block up for a pretty long time to get it hot enough to break free. This was with the engine on a stand though so I had better leverage. Have you tried heating it up to see if it helps? Obviously be incredibly careful since the fuel lines are on that side but it should come out in time. Sent from inside my potato Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VHerring Posted October 14, 2016 Author Share Posted October 14, 2016 I had not tried that...don't have a torch or anything like that, but I do have a heat gun. I'll keep that as an absolute last resort, since there are so many wires and such through there too. Thanks! Anybody with other ideas too, send them this way please! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuong Nguyen Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 By yourself a little propane torch at the hardware store Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 I had my injector rails off when I had my intake apart and didn't touch the drain plugs. Just pulled the lower rad hose, let it drain out, and had no issues with coolant. I did the water pump and timing belt at the same time, no issues there either, at least not that I can remember (nothing that caused problems). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VHerring Posted October 14, 2016 Author Share Posted October 14, 2016 Ok cool, that lower hose is sooo much easier than fighting with this damn bolt! LMAO! Thanks! BTW, this thing is for sale if anyone is interested...I can't ship it, but it's for sale all the same! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 I wouldn't have touched those. I don't trust them not to snap off or not seal properly on installation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VHerring Posted October 14, 2016 Author Share Posted October 14, 2016 Yea, I pulled the driver's side no problem but the passenger is a bit**!! I just pulled the drain plug on the bottom of the radiator since I couldn't reach the lower hose very well...worked fine! Now.....isn't there a specific order I need to remove the allen bolts for the plenum? (Sorry, I know, too many questions...but I don't have my dad to ask these questions anymore, so I'm turning you all! ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macrow Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 They go at a diagonal pattern for removing them however I would refer to the FSM to give you proper order for that or a Haynes or Chilton book as well. if I remember right it's on page 22 in section EM of the FSM that will show you the proper order when removing & installing those. I would refer to it or if you don't have it you can find the link to download it in the Forums here under the Garage section I would recommend doing that as it is a good thing to have on hand when doing any kind of work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VHerring Posted October 15, 2016 Author Share Posted October 15, 2016 Cool, thanks. Found it! It only lists tightening order for installation, nothing about loosening order! Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 I don't remember doing mine in a specific order, but I did go around and loosen them all a little before removing them the rest of the way. If you want an order to follow, maybe just reverse the tightening order? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macrow Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 Yes, I did mine in the reverse order as it shows for tightening them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VHerring Posted October 21, 2016 Author Share Posted October 21, 2016 Ok all...Pathy is running great! So far I have replaced the brake master cylinder, water pump, water pump pulley, thermostat, timing belt, timing belt tensioner, fan clutch, fan, alternator, upper and lower radiator hoses and a full oil change. A little over a week ago the CEL came on, and my codes were 33(heated O2 sensor ), 34(knock sensor) and 45(leaking injector). So, I replaced the injector that was leaking, most of the vacuum lines since it was all apart, all spark plugs, the fuel line that links the 2 sides of the fuel rail, plenum gasket, removed EGR and replaced the gasket, and another full oil change since I had gas in the oil. Got it all put back together, and it fired right up first try!!!!! Drove it around for a little bit, and the damn CEL came back on, codes 33 and 34 again. So, after beating the he** out of the old O2 sensor to be able to get it out, I got it replaced and rewired too!!! Knock sensor code was still there, but I reset the ECU and it's now reading 55(no malfunctions)!!!!!!!!!!! Not bad for being a woman, doing most of the work by myself (my husband helped with the first round, but I did everything myself after the CEL came on the first time other than he helped a little putting it back together) and did it all with my 3 kids at home! (ages 7,2 &1)! Hopefully the damn knock sensor code doesn't come back...if it does though, I'll just relocate it...not tearing that all apart again unless it is totally unavoidable! YAY ME!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuong Nguyen Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 Good job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleFR Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 Yeah, knock sensor relocation is the way to go on those. Your probably not too far from me, I'm in the far western part of KY. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now