Just bought my Pathfinder :)

[AndersonZK]

I just bought my 1st Pathfinder (96 SE) and I wanted to just pick everyone's brain on here for some advice to put me in the right direction. Now, I'm pretty handy but I am NO mechanic so sorry up front. I wouldn't consider myself into the extreme off-road but I do like to camp and plan to make this my 'off the beaten path' vehicle.

 

I notice sway when I drive at decent speeds (50mph+) from the suspension but I want to lift about 2" to allow for some bigger tires if anyone had any suggestions on where to start for springs/shocks

 

I want to get a tube bumper replacement (Like the ARB ones) but I noticed on ARB that they say 1999-2005 for the R50 full bull bar-bumpers so I'm not sure if it will fit

 

My 4x4 seems to engage into 4H just fine, then I can get it past neutral and into 4L but I can't get it past neutral into 4H or 2 without turning the car off and putting it back into either 4H or 2. (It just grinds and won't go through)

 

I'm looking for a good sized roof rack with probably a mesh cover to hold a lot of my camping things since I have 2 dogs that take up quite a bit of room in the back while traveling.

 

Also I'm open for any other suggestions with storage and anything overall.

 

[Slartibartfast]

 

Sway could be a few things but I'd start by checking the rear suspension link bushings. When they go out, the rear axle can wiggle around a bit and eventually you get into what's known as death wobble. As for lifts, there are a few options, but I'll leave that for somebody who knows the R50 better than I do to explain.

 

To go between high and low range, stop the truck, put the transmission in neutral, then shift the transfer case. If you're stopped but in gear, the only thing holding the output of the trans from spinning is your foot on the brake. Put the transfer in neutral and the transmission is no longer connected to the wheels, so the trans and part of the transfer will spin up on you. Trying to engage high or low after that is asking the transfer to couple a spinning shaft to a stopped one. That's what makes it grind. If the truck is stopped and the transmission is in neutral when you move the transfer case lever, you should be able to go from high to low and back without drama.

2H to 4H and back isn't as picky, but will grind if you try it with the rear end already slipping. IIRC the little card in the driver's sun visor goes over all this and says something about not going between 2x and 4x at speeds over 50, but I suspect that restriction is more of a stability concern (don't go 50+ if the road's bad enough that you need 4x) than any issue with the case.

[fleurys]

Welcome.

 

For 2" lift you can have a look at my place.

 

[AndersonZK]

 

Sway could be a few things but I'd start by checking the rear suspension link bushings. When they go out, the rear axle can wiggle around a bit and eventually you get into what's known as death wobble. As for lifts, there are a few options, but I'll leave that for somebody who knows the R50 better than I do to explain.

 

To go between high and low range, stop the truck, put the transmission in neutral, then shift the transfer case. If you're stopped but in gear, the only thing holding the output of the trans from spinning is your foot on the brake. Put the transfer in neutral and the transmission is no longer connected to the wheels, so the trans and part of the transfer will spin up on you. Trying to engage high or low after that is asking the transfer to couple a spinning shaft to a stopped one. That's what makes it grind. If the truck is stopped and the transmission is in neutral when you move the transfer case lever, you should be able to go from high to low and back without drama.

 

2H to 4H and back isn't as picky, but will grind if you try it with the rear end already slipping. IIRC the little card in the driver's sun visor goes over all this and says something about not going between 2x and 4x at speeds over 50, but I suspect that restriction is more of a stability concern (don't go 50+ if the road's bad enough that you need 4x) than any issue with the case.

I've tried to go from 4L back to 4H in neutral (Transmission) and it still had the same grinds. I'll fidget with it a bit more and see if I can get a little more info either way. Thanks for the help though I am very new to having a manual 4WD...

[AndersonZK]

Welcome.

 

For 2" lift you can have a look at my place.

 

 

Thanks! I'll check it out.

[XPLORx4]

I've tried to go from 4L back to 4H in neutral (Transmission) and it still had the same grinds. I'll fidget with it a bit more and see if I can get a little more info either way. Thanks for the help though I am very new to having a manual 4WD...

 

Make the shift from 4H to 4L quickly and firmly. Press the t-case shift knob down into the floor, move the lever quickly back to 4L (while keeping downward pressure), then let the lever pop up to lock in 4L. If it takes longer than 2 seconds to shift between 4H and 4L, that's way too long. Do not linger in "N".

 

It'll take some practice.

[AndersonZK]

 

Make the shift from 4H to 4L quickly and firmly. Press the t-case shift knob down into the floor, move the lever quickly back to 4L (while keeping downward pressure), then let the lever pop up to lock in 4L. If it takes longer than 2 seconds to shift between 4H and 4L, that's way too long. Do not linger in "N".

 

It'll take some practice.

 

Thanks, that very well may be my issue. Do you think lingering in "N" could give me that impossible shift/grind?

[XPLORx4]

 

Thanks, that very well may be my issue. Do you think lingering in "N" could give me that impossible shift/grind?

 

Absolutely. The first few times I tried to shift into 4L, I did it timidly because I'd never done it before, and I got the grinding every time, until I shut off the engine before shifting, then restarting. I was like:

OK, I'm in 4H. Stop car and shift transmission to "N". Push down on the t-case lever, move it to from "4H" to "N". Kewl, the lever moved!

OK, now that I know the lever moves, now let's shift to 4L... GRIND GRIND GRIND!!! WTF??? Oh no did I break something?

Let's try that again, move to 4L... GRIND GRIND!!! Crap. Shut off engine and shift, then restart!

 

Eventually, I learned the proper technique and I haven't heard the grinding sound since. Move the lever swiftly, firmly and make sure it locks into place. The lever is pretty far back when in 4L, farther than you'd expect if you've never done it before.

 

Now, I'm like:

I'm in 4H. Stop car, shift tranny to "N".

Grab t-case lever. Pushyankpull. Clink! Done.

Shift into "D,2,1". Go.

 

Whenever I'm in 4L, I almost ALWAYS have the tranny in "1" or "2". You should almost never be in "D" or "O/D" unless you need to go faster. "D" in 4L has a max speed similar to "1" in 4H.

Edited January 18, 2016 by XPLORx4

[CDN_S4]

I used to the grinding too trying to get into 4L. Just like Xplorx says, don't be shy about it. Neutral and yankpushpull that sucker.

 

 

Sent from my Pathfinder

[Slartibartfast]

I just went out and tried shifting mine slowly, and sure enough, it ground a little going in. I forgot they did that! Just got used to the quick shift I guess.

 

Must be something about the fluid between the clutch packs moving just enough power to spin the tailshaft when it's not hooked to anything.

[FriedEGs]

I remember my first time trying to get into 4L... Like everyone mentioned, def keep the transmission in Neutral when you engage and disengage the 4L. Press down firm and give it a good pull towards you. It's def not as easy as the 'on the fly' motion you get from 2H to 4H.

 

Welcome aboard!

Edited February 3, 2016 by FriedEGs