New 93 XE in the CA foothills.

[crab]

I dont have any more right now, but Ill upload them when I do. Thanks for the interest.

Here's the exterior:

 

 

[crab]

He is correct. There should be a switch mounted in the dash area for those fog lamps.

Here are the 2 sides of the dash. Anyone know what went in the round hole closest to the steering column?

 

 

 

[mechanicalbaron]

I see now what I have. this is from ebay:

 

I guess the PO just destroyed everything, fixed nothing. Was anything mounted to the right half of the housing? The upper area sure looks to have mounting holes.

 

Looking a little bit into your year model, it appears that there should be a fog light there. Mines different. When in doubt Google it.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[Cuong Nguyen]

 

as far as the windows and doors go, I have a multi-tester and limited knowledge of how it works. Any good links to circuit basics on a vehicle?

 

Also, I tried to remove one door panel and promptly popped the clip through the hardboard. Any threads on removing door panels with destroying anything?

 

Thanks again.

 

You're best bet is to download the FSM (Factory Service Manual).

As far as removing the door panels, you can buy the special tool to remove it, or if you're like me, you can use the flat syle wire stripper/crimper tool. Just open up the crimping end of the tool sliding the jaws inbetween the clip. close the jaw around the clip and leverage the board away from the door shell.

 

You can use wood glue diluted down slightly with water to glue back the cracked end of the door panel boards. I don't think it'd be strong enough for broken bits but it's worth a try.

 

Here are the 2 sides of the dash. Anyone know what went in the round hole closest to the steering column?

 

 

 

 

I'm guessing that's a blank for an aftermarket alarm led light.

[Precise1]

Welcome, and wow, someone beat the tar out of that poor Pathfinder! I hope you got a good deal on it...

 

thanks, I will definitely be pestering you folks.

 

who's the expert on the door electronics? any good threads on the front door windows going up and down, but not the back?

Also, the locks dont work at all. Do you need to get to the lock cylinder to tell Nissan what key you need, or can they use the VIN?

 

 

we will be doing the timing belt Saturday. What's the best thread on that one? any gotchas?

 

One more. Is it true that you need to get a front end alignment done at a Nissan dealer?

 

thanks

 

Crab

Maybe someone changed the ignition lock so the key for the doors and ignition are completely different? Did the locksmith actually try making a key just for the drivers side lock?

FYI, someone is parting out a 1995 in Sacramento, maybe you can get the full set of locks/ignition from him? Maybe some other parts as well? There are some differences between the '93 and the '95 (mainly trim/interior) but most parts should be the same; double check compatibility with a parts web site like Rock Auto, Autozone, etc.

 

There is a good thread on the timing belt in the Garage/How To section. Can't miss it...

 

 

 

as far as the windows and doors go, I have a multi-tester and limited knowledge of how it works. Any good links to circuit basics on a vehicle?

 

Also, I tried to remove one door panel and promptly popped the clip through the hardboard. Any threads on removing door panels with destroying anything?

 

Thanks again.

Download the 1994 FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage section. Not all the wiring will be the same (as stated above), but things like door regulators, etc should be.

 

I'm not sure, search for it. I'm not help, I hate interior work because I'm the 'destroy all the clips' guy...

 

B

[crab]

Welcome, and wow, someone beat the tar out of that poor Pathfinder! I hope you got a good deal on it...

 

Maybe someone changed the ignition lock so the key for the doors and ignition are completely different? Did the locksmith actually try making a key just for the drivers side lock?

FYI, someone is parting out a 1995 in Sacramento, maybe you can get the full set of locks/ignition from him? Maybe some other parts as well? There are some differences between the '93 and the '95 (mainly trim/interior) but most parts should be the same; double check compatibility with a parts web site like Rock Auto, Autozone, etc.

 

There is a good thread on the timing belt in the Garage/How To section. Can't miss it...

 

 

Download the 1994 FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage section. Not all the wiring will be the same (as stated above), but things like door regulators, etc should be.

 

I'm not sure, search for it. I'm not help, I hate interior work because I'm the 'destroy all the clips' guy...

 

B

Good deal? $800. Didn't feel like a deal for a few weeks, but now I'm coming around.

 

The locksmith was a mobile guy who came to the car before I drove it away. don't know what he did, but the ignition keys don't turn in the cylinder. I heard you need to give Nissan the cylinder number from the door lock itself.

 

Did the timing belt last weekend, thanks. So many parts dont fit when you buy them, but that's another forum topic. (the rock auto belt didn't fit, had to get a NAPA like what was in there. No problems. 2 of the 3 radiator hoses were nowhere near the right part, etc.)

 

I found a 93 FSM on that clio something site. Thanks for the encouragement.

[crab]

 

You're best bet is to download the FSM (Factory Service Manual).

As far as removing the door panels, you can buy the special tool to remove it, or if you're like me, you can use the flat syle wire stripper/crimper tool. Just open up the crimping end of the tool sliding the jaws inbetween the clip. close the jaw around the clip and leverage the board away from the door shell.

 

You can use wood glue diluted down slightly with water to glue back the cracked end of the door panel boards. I don't think it'd be strong enough for broken bits but it's worth a try.

 

 

I'm guessing that's a blank for an aftermarket alarm led light.

thanks. there ARE alarm remnants under the hood.

[Precise1]

Good deal? $800. Didn't feel like a deal for a few weeks, but now I'm coming around.

 

The locksmith was a mobile guy who came to the car before I drove it away. don't know what he did, but the ignition keys don't turn in the cylinder. I heard you need to give Nissan the cylinder number from the door lock itself.

 

Did the timing belt last weekend, thanks. So many parts dont fit when you buy them, but that's another forum topic. (the rock auto belt didn't fit, had to get a NAPA like what was in there. No problems. 2 of the 3 radiator hoses were nowhere near the right part, etc.)

 

I found a 93 FSM on that clio something site. Thanks for the encouragement.

Considering a fairly straight body, no rust (I'm assuming) and that you should get another 100k miles at least, I'd say that was reasonable. Once you get things sorted out, I'm sure you'll like it...

 

Yeah, who knows... I had a locksmith come out and make me a new key to a car once; he did it by putting a blank into the drivers side door, jiggling it, looking at the printing on the metal, and filing it. Took him about 20 minutes, but it worked in every lock. Pretty neat, and after watching him, I think I understand how to do it. Never been that bored though...

 

Glad you took care of the T-belt right away, too many people ignore it. Did Rock Auto send you the wrong parts or did you order the wrong parts? That sucks regardless, I hate being into a job and not have what I need.

 

Can you provide a link to that '93 FSM? I'm sure a lot of people would be interested; '94 has been the earliest free, digital version available so far...

 

B

[crab]

Considering a fairly straight body, no rust (I'm assuming) and that you should get another 100k miles at least, I'd say that was reasonable. Once you get things sorted out, I'm sure you'll like it...

 

Yeah, who knows... I had a locksmith come out and make me a new key to a car once; he did it by putting a blank into the drivers side door, jiggling it, looking at the printing on the metal, and filing it. Took him about 20 minutes, but it worked in every lock. Pretty neat, and after watching him, I think I understand how to do it. Never been that bored though...

 

Glad you took care of the T-belt right away, too many people ignore it. Did Rock Auto send you the wrong parts or did you order the wrong parts? That sucks regardless, I hate being into a job and not have what I need.

 

Can you provide a link to that '93 FSM? I'm sure a lot of people would be interested; '94 has been the earliest free, digital version available so far...

 

B

Sure, there's this one:

 

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1993_Pathfinder/

 

I have another that's in the format of the others on the nicoclub site. Can't for the life of me remember where I downloaded. it. Is there a place I can upload it to? it's about 38Mb zipped.

 

My auto parts struggle may be typical for a Pathfinder; I've really only worked on VWs in the past, so there's no drama over whether the parts fit. They always do.

 

I ordered the correct parts from Rock. Everything in the timing belt kit was fine, except for the belt itself. Easily procured one that fit at the local NAPA.

 

The injectors were another story. Also from Rock, did not fit at all. We crushed one trying to use a c clamp to get it in. Gave up then spent another $300+ on another set, also at NAPA. Those went right in.

 

Brakes, same deal. Rear shoes were impossible to get ( that matched what was ion the car). Every store we went to gave us something that was different from what was on there, nothing fit. We adjusted the old shoes to get the ebrake working and left it at that for now.

 

Thanks for the idea on the locksmith.

[Slartibartfast]

Ah, yeah, the belt makes sense, they switched from round tooth to square tooth mid-93. No idea how they screwed up injectors, though, AFAIK the only difference in injectors between MPFI Pathfinders is spray pattern.

 

My '93 has that blanking plug on the dash as well, and a stock alarm that doesn't use it. I assume they either wanted to make a space to install aftermarket stuff or there was some JDM accessory that wasn't required for the US.

+1 on the FSM being the best source of info on these. So much good stuff in there. Some amusing pictures, as well.

 

I used to use a screwdriver to remove door cards, but I picked up one of these a while back and it's been a huge help. I did have to clean up a few sharp edges so it wouldn't scratch the door, and you want to make sure you're prying right at the clip so it doesn't pop the clip out of the crappy fiberboard door cards, but it works so much faster and better than jamming a screwdriver in there. It's also come in handy for removing hoses.

[crab]

Ah, yeah, the belt makes sense, they switched from round tooth to square tooth mid-93. No idea how they screwed up injectors, though, AFAIK the only difference in injectors between MPFI Pathfinders is spray pattern.

 

My '93 has that blanking plug on the dash as well, and a stock alarm that doesn't use it. I assume they either wanted to make a space to install aftermarket stuff or there was some JDM accessory that wasn't required for the US.

 

+1 on the FSM being the best source of info on these. So much good stuff in there. Some amusing pictures, as well.

 

I used to use a screwdriver to remove door cards, but I picked up one of these a while back and it's been a huge help. I did have to clean up a few sharp edges so it wouldn't scratch the door, and you want to make sure you're prying right at the clip so it doesn't pop the clip out of the crappy fiberboard door cards, but it works so much faster and better than jamming a screwdriver in there. It's also come in handy for removing hoses.

I'm feeling like the O rings were the culprit with the injectors, maybe a few thousandths too big? no amount of lube would get them in. The second set pushed in as expected.

 

the RockAuto belt was shorter; they both had square teeth. It would only go on WITHOUT the tensioner pulley. we struggled for almost an hour before heading to a NAPA.

 

I'm sure I'll use that hole in the dash for some after market lights. thanks

 

That wrench looks like a fine answer to a problem. Is there a thread on door panel removal?

Edited January 15, 2016 by crab

[Terranovation]

To remove the door panel, start by prying up the round plastic retainer on the inside of your arm rest. You'll see it down in there where the inside door handle is. Unscrew the Phillips head in there. Now you should be able to slide the arm rest back then lift out. Remove the plastic rim that surrounds the interior door latch. Unscrew three bolts behind the arm rest, they are attached to the inside of the door panel, unclip the wiring that connects electric windows then start popping off all your round plastic retainers holding the door card on. They are white round plastic ones. The first one is at the bottom corner of the door. Once you get one off you can just start pulling gently and the rest will just pop out but be careful not to tear the flimsy card board material.

This sounds like a lot of work but once you get into the guts of it it's pretty easy compared to other vehicles. I want to replace my crappy door cards with some stronger material one day, I'm thinking mdf board would be better.

[crab]

thanks.

[maaakaaa]

I had an issue where the key wouldn't unlock either front door. It happened to both the same week. For me, it was a little yellow plastic connector piece in the door lock linkage. I think this is the video that helped me out:

[crab]

I had an issue where the key wouldn't unlock either front door. It happened to both the same week. For me, it was a little yellow plastic connector piece in the door lock linkage. I think this is the video that helped me out:

 

 

Thanks!