maddmark1981 Posted October 17, 2015 Share Posted October 17, 2015 Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djratlif Posted October 17, 2015 Share Posted October 17, 2015 Sway bar link, cheap easy fix. Both sides should be under $20 at local Napa/chain parts stores. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddmark1981 Posted October 17, 2015 Author Share Posted October 17, 2015 Awesome... Thank you Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 18, 2015 Share Posted October 18, 2015 Nothing personal Bud, but you really need to download the FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage section and spend a little time looking at the diagrams, exploded views and descriptions. While questions are welcome, doing some homework first is encouraged and you'd be surprised at all the other things you'll learn that you run across doing that. B 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddmark1981 Posted October 23, 2015 Author Share Posted October 23, 2015 New parts, putting them on this weekend... I got both sides... Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddmark1981 Posted October 23, 2015 Author Share Posted October 23, 2015 Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddmark1981 Posted October 23, 2015 Author Share Posted October 23, 2015 I'm not sure how much these should be torque at... They're not sitting perfectly in their washers so I'm gonna leave emjust threadded on and put the tires back on and adjust from on the ground Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddmark1981 Posted October 23, 2015 Author Share Posted October 23, 2015 Here's my awesome weld job I did on the strut rod bushing rase Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PathyAndTheJets Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 I think that style of washer goes the other way. I could be wrong though. Probably doesn't matter enough to flip them around either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pav Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 According to the FSM - FA37 its 12-16 ft-lb. When you change that you might as well do the stabilizer bar bushings so everything can sit properly. Looking at the bits of your frame from the pics I would do a tap test all the way to the back of the truck. I think you are going to be finding a few surprises along the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddmark1981 Posted October 24, 2015 Author Share Posted October 24, 2015 I wasn't aware that the washers were on wrong, Are you certain that they go round to bushing? I copied the original assembly pattern.. When I get the stabilizer bushings I will check into it... A tap test? I haven't gone over it since this past spring, The passenger side rear frame over wheel well was rotted out when I got it, I went at it with the air chisel and fabricated a new channel sleeve and welded it into place... I know shes rough around the edges... Im gonna try to clean it up and spray it with undercoating again, salt up here on the roads is terrible for any vehicle. Shes got a wobble in er when Im shifting and especially on the highway you notice it when I let off the gas and when accelerating ... I'm trying to get that wobble out of her by replacing bushings and bearings if need be but I'm no mechanic, I just dabble cause I cant afford a mechanic and I have lots of tools and It's fun for me.. I don't know what I'll do next cause the wobble seems to be in the rear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 24, 2015 Share Posted October 24, 2015 That's the right way for the washers. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PathyAndTheJets Posted October 24, 2015 Share Posted October 24, 2015 I wish I could remember where I heard it. It is supposed to reduce wear on the bushing, catches less crap with the cups up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pav Posted October 24, 2015 Share Posted October 24, 2015 Like Adamzan stated he has them on the right way. They should be more snug in cups though, so there really should not be any debris accumulating in them. These parts are cheap and will wear quickly if the rest of the suspension is out of whack. If you had the cups inverted they would end up catching more dirt and worse you will wear out the bushing very quickly since the pressure put on them is not being dispersed properly. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechanicalbaron Posted October 24, 2015 Share Posted October 24, 2015 I wasn't aware that the washers were on wrong, Are you certain that they go round to bushing? I copied the original assembly pattern.. When I get the stabilizer bushings I will check into it... A tap test? I haven't gone over it since this past spring, The passenger side rear frame over wheel well was rotted out when I got it, I went at it with the air chisel and fabricated a new channel sleeve and welded it into place... I know shes rough around the edges... Im gonna try to clean it up and spray it with undercoating again, salt up here on the roads is terrible for any vehicle. Shes got a wobble in er when Im shifting and especially on the highway you notice it when I let off the gas and when accelerating ... I'm trying to get that wobble out of her by replacing bushings and bearings if need be but I'm no mechanic, I just dabble cause I cant afford a mechanic and I have lots of tools and It's fun for me.. I don't know what I'll do next cause the wobble seems to be in the rear When I first got mine it would randomly get a wobble when going over certain bumps on the freeway, like bridge overpasses. The only way to stop it was to either let off the gas or stab the throttle. After replacing all the shocks I assumed it was from the rear axle link bushings but none were blown out. I found that when running my tire pressure at 26 psi that it went away. I usually run mine at 40 psi. Which didn't make any sense to me but it worked. I ended up replacing all the bushings in the front suspension with polyurethane and went back to 40 psi tire pressure. Hasn't happened again. So try running your tire pressure at 26 psi for a while if you aren't already and see if that helps. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddmark1981 Posted October 24, 2015 Author Share Posted October 24, 2015 That makes sense... I'll check em out right now...thanks Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 It's the rear suspension bushings you should be looking at for those symptoms. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddmark1981 Posted October 25, 2015 Author Share Posted October 25, 2015 OK, ... I'd like to have them all replaced but I can only afford one at a time... What in the rear should I be addressing? I looked into lower control arm bushings and they're expensive and apparently need to be pressed out and in again, have you done these before? Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechanicalbaron Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 It's the rear suspension bushings you should be looking at for those symptoms. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk I've never had to replace rear suspension bushings on a WD21 in the 10 years working at a Nissan dealer, r50's all the time for some reason. After replacing all of my shocks that was the first thing that came to mind was the rear bushings. It was after a quick trip offroading that I realized that after airing down my tires that the wobble was gone, after driving it for a couple weeks at a tire pressure of 26 psi never had it happen again until I put the pressure back to 40 psi. I do realize that wear and tear is dependent on the geographic region you reside. Out here seems to destroy anything that is rubber. Still haven't replaced my rear bushings, it's on the "to do" list. However I agree that closely inspecting the rear link bushings should be the first step in isolating this type of problem. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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