maddmark1981 Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 I bought the rig 8 months ago and it came with fresh oil, when I was tuning to get better fuel Mileage I switched to Synthetic 5W-20 I am wondering if I should go back to conventional oil for fear of damage...Any Ideas or suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BendRed Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 (edited) 5w20 seems light - I use 10w30 dino in my 95 XE with 100k miles on it. If your just doing crank case to syn you wont see an over all improvement as the parasitic drag of oil on the crank case is negligible . Now if you do all drive train fluids to syn then you may see a 1-2 mpg increase ...... MAY! As far as damage .... non will incur but with the amount of detergents in the synthetic if you have any weeping or slight leaking , it will progressively become worse as the detergents clean away the gunk at the seals . Also , if you already burn oil , you WILL burn more. Edited September 23, 2015 by BendRed 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 Too thin. Synthetic is less viscous than dino as it is, that's basically water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 Use 5w30, that is the reccomended oil in the manual. Thick oil is to mask problems. 5w20 is too thin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 I have switched over to 5w30 synthetic. No issues. If you have any oil leaks, fix them before switching to synthetic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechanicalbaron Posted September 25, 2015 Share Posted September 25, 2015 I've been using mobile one 5/30 synthetic since I got mine. Had about 176k, have had no issues with leaks. I figure if mobile one synthetic oil is the recommended oil for many high performance and high line vehicles that it is best long term. However I still stick to a 3000 MI oil change schedule. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BendRed Posted September 25, 2015 Share Posted September 25, 2015 I use mobil 1 a lot but its still not a top tier oil . Many oils have pro's and con's and its solely dependent upon what portions of the oil's properties are your needed/desired high points. I spend way to much time over here talking about oil - http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm I prefer a Shell Rotella t6 or Chevron Dello in syns as they are diesel fleet formula and have the best compounds for sheer and break down properties. They are designed for Fleet vehicles and fleet vehicles are usually a vehicle that is constantly in motion with long run times. They also have properties that the copper crankshaft bearings of european cars need and meet euro spec oil requirements where 90% of on the shelf US sold oils do not. Yeah I know the Nissan isn't Euro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted September 25, 2015 Share Posted September 25, 2015 Rotella is good stuff but too thick for me to use in the winter here. I guess the 5w40 is suitable but still. I'm sticking to 5w30 as it's had that for it's whole life, so why change it. I have no oil loss, ticking, or smoke. I don't run stupid extended oil change intervals though. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BendRed Posted September 25, 2015 Share Posted September 25, 2015 If Im running synthetic Im running 5-7k mile oil service schedules ...... have for nearly 10 years with zero issues . Oil filter change at the half way mark. 5w40 is fine in cold climates as the 1st number is the cold temp and the 2nd # is the warm temp. Here in bend Oregon I use 5w40 Rotella T6 Syn in the summers and Liqui Moly 5w30 Syn in the winter ( for customer euro cars) Asian cars ...... any proper 5w30 syn all year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddmark1981 Posted September 28, 2015 Author Share Posted September 28, 2015 ok, well I have no oil leakage at all which I love about it, I changed my plugs for some Platinum ones, Changed the Oil to Synthetic, Sea foam through the master Cylinder, Lucas Cool Radiator additive and that brought me from 18Mpg up to about 20Mpg so I thought it was worth it, It gets cold and I don't want to go too thick, I've had some sluggish issues with other vehicles with 10-W30 in the deep cold Nova Scotia Winter so I'm a believer of 5-w20 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted September 28, 2015 Share Posted September 28, 2015 (edited) But why thinner higher number? 5w30 will be the same cold and protect the motor better warm as that is what it was designed for. 5w20 is spec'd for newer fuel saver cars like Honda civics. I got 22mpg many times driving from Ottawa to Kitchener. Sometimes even more. Now I'm running 33s so mileage is a moot point. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk Edited September 28, 2015 by adamzan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BendRed Posted September 28, 2015 Share Posted September 28, 2015 (edited) FYI - Platinum plugs are really only good for Turbo / supercharged cars. Platinum = denser material = which allows it to last longer but not burn as hot = not 100% burn off of fuel in the combustion chamber = More money to purchase Copper = less dense material = burns much hotter and burns off 100% of fuel in combustion chamber = better fuel economy and toque = less money This test has been done NUMEROUS times on numerous vehicles in my shop . My customers that come to me with there inline 3.0 BMW NA motors for tune ups always trip out when I implore them for copper over OEM recommended Platinum . But once I swap them out there more then impressed. I would have recommend a NGK copper plug Edited September 28, 2015 by BendRed 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 28, 2015 Share Posted September 28, 2015 I have to question this... To say that the platinum plugs are colder doesn't really make sense as the heat range of the plug is designed, and incorporated into the part number. Example... NGK BKR6ES (standard) NGK BKR6EGP (platinum) The 6 in each is heat range, the lower the number, the higher the heat IIRC. A plug either runs in the same temp range, or it is a different part number. Then there is how timing affects the temp; advanced timing tends to run hotter, so a cooler plug might be suitable to avoid detonation. None of this really applies to a low compression, low RPM, non induction/turbo, regular unleaded burning Pathfinder though... Maybe this is a specific BMW/performance thing, just like Nissans prefer NGK plugs, but I'm have to call BS when you say copper is hotter than platinum when both plugs are rated for the same heat range. That just doesn't make sense Bud. As for difference in cost, it is what, a buck a plug? Then they last longer as well, and even if you change them every 60k miles (probably overkill), you are out an extra $25 over 1/4 million miles? Not really even worth talking about... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BendRed Posted September 28, 2015 Share Posted September 28, 2015 Platinum = denser material Copper = less dense Remove my comment about the cold part as you are correct about the numeric range printed on the plug . But - copper does conduct electricity much more effectively then platinum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BendRed Posted September 28, 2015 Share Posted September 28, 2015 I think I should clarify my "theory". When using a Copper plug in a turbo charged car , it throws a CEL code . Code is caused by the heat left on the copper plug from it not firing then cooling . With that being said , it shows that copper plug runs/ stays hotter and in "theory" more effectively burns the gas equating into efficiently burned gas = to torque/hp . We have tested this "theory" on numerous Asian / Euro cars with great success . You can call BS , but it has worked for the last 5 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted September 28, 2015 Share Posted September 28, 2015 I believe resistance of the plugs vs. power of the ignition system plays a part as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted September 28, 2015 Share Posted September 28, 2015 My pathfinder runs best with the NGK V-power plugs. They are the ones it calls for in the service manual. Copper plugs with the V groove. My Xterra calls for the ngk laser platinum plugs, but then again, it's supercharged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 28, 2015 Share Posted September 28, 2015 Platinum = denser material Copper = less dense Remove my comment about the cold part as you are correct about the numeric range printed on the plug . But - copper does conduct electricity much more effectively then platinum Yes x3 While copper is a better conductor than platinum, platinum is also highly conductive so I think "much more effectively" applies correctly. I think I should clarify my "theory". When using a Copper plug in a turbo charged car , it throws a CEL code . Code is caused by the heat left on the copper plug from it not firing then cooling . With that being said , it shows that copper plug runs/ stays hotter and in "theory" more effectively burns the gas equating into efficiently burned gas = to torque/hp . We have tested this "theory" on numerous Asian / Euro cars with great success . You can call BS , but it has worked for the last 5 years. I'll defer to your superior experience in all of that, being as I don't work in a shop and have never even owned a turbo. The only thing I was calling BS to is that plugs temperatures will be different due to construction material. In reality, plugs in the same heat category will perform similarly, regardless of construction material, due to the design. That is the whole point to the heat code... Applied to a Pathfinder, it really makes little difference. I had one drive to my house for a tune up, and it ran/started fine with 260k miles on it. All the plugs had a gap of .09-.1"; I suspect they were the original factory plugs. I've run the standard, the V power and the G power (platinum) and they all work fine; the platinum seem to stay the cleanest. Applied to turbos, if you wanted heat, why not just install a platinum plug of a higher heat rating? I did think that turbos ran cooler plugs though... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BendRed Posted September 28, 2015 Share Posted September 28, 2015 Turbo's do run cooler plugs but with a copper plug in a turbo we find the residual heat after spark causes almost a misfire due to the copper retaining heat after the fire (spark) . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 28, 2015 Share Posted September 28, 2015 So you are talking about the residual heat... Interestingly enough, the issue doesn't seem to be the material, but the design of the plugs. Copper actually has a thermal transfer rate almost 5.5x that of platinum (398 W/(m K) VS 73 W/(m K)); copper plugs have a large electrode and the the platinum have small ones, so it seems the small platinum tip is what allows it to cool sufficiently between firing. That makes more sense now... http://www.roymech.co.uk/Related/Thermos/Thermos_HeatTransfer.html B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BendRed Posted September 28, 2015 Share Posted September 28, 2015 (edited) BINGO! . nice research friend Edited September 28, 2015 by BendRed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 I'm a sciency kind of guy, and one of the keys to life is to learn; to keep learning. Kids these days with the internet are so lucky, I would have had to look this up in an encyclopedia/text books or go to the library... As for the oil, I agree with most of the posts, go with 5-30, synthetic is fine (even if it is just Mobil 1) unless you live in a major desert, then run 5(10)-40 synthetic in the blister months. I have a WD21 that I run 10-30 Valvoline semi-syn in (106k miles) and a R50 that has Mobil 10-30 in it (180k miles), and I'm considering going back to the Mobil 1 5-30 to see which it likes better on start up. Both work fine, but I'm trying to stock as few different grades of oil as possible, so finding something that all the cars like would be nice... B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 My lifters tick a lot on cold starts with 10w30. Not at all on 5 weight. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 Makes sense... thicker oil simply takes longer to travel to its destination. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 My lifters tick a lot on cold starts with 10w30. Not at all on 5 weight. Your cold starts are way different from my cold starts, no ticking here... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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