NovaPath Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 (edited) So while underneath my truck today it appears I have bent not one but both of my rear trailing arms on rocks from one of my recent off road trips. A quick google search indicates that rugged rocks off road offers an HD option, but it seems a bit pricey for my current financial situation(broke). I'm wondering if anyone has retrofitted any other lower control arms into these rigs? In theory it is just a couple of bolts connecting a long piece of metal, as long as the length can be made the same it should be plug and play I would think. I'm not interested in going with new OEM equivalents as I'm sure within six months I will have managed to bend those up as well.. Thanks for the help! -Ryan Edited August 2, 2015 by NovaPath Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted August 3, 2015 Share Posted August 3, 2015 Fluerys use to make an option, but lack of sales and his Un happy results on his rig cause him to stop production. So unless you want to develop something of your own, your kinda stuck. But how hard could it be? For you're needs you just need some square tubing and some tubing that's the same as the stock bushings, weld it on at each ends and boom super strong lowers which is all you need. -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NovaPath Posted August 3, 2015 Author Share Posted August 3, 2015 Thats my thinking too Kyle, problem is I can't weld . Why are you thinking square as opposed to round, would square tubing be more resistant to bending? There is a fabricator that sponsor's my local club, I keep meaning to give him a call to ask him about this and just haven't done it yet.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN_S4 Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 You could even re-use the ends of the oem ones and just weld (or have welded) a stronger mid section in place. I'm fleurting with the idea too, as well as add an inch to it. I'm on WJ coils and they likely won't get compressed all the way very often and if they do, there would still be room for the wheel to tuck, just like there is room for it to move forwards. But at least for the majority of regular driving it would sit back in the centre. Let me know how you make out. I would think round is stronger than square, for the same reason submarines are round, not square. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 (edited) I bought a pair of OEM arms and had pieces of angle-iron welded to them. They have held up to some pretty extensive abuse ever since. https://www.dropbox.com/s/u1fqm38dparmofh/lca1.jpg?dl=0 Edited August 4, 2015 by XPLORx4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 That's actually very clever, simple, cheap and effective. Btw. How have those poly bushings help up? Mine are finally blown in the rear and I'm running through my options, I really like the "set and forget" of rubber/stock but the durably of Poly, but don't they need to be greased periodically? And I've heard they ride a little stiffer, is that true? Hate to thread jack. Pm xplorer if you would be so kind. Thanks. -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patqx4 Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 Adding strength is an interesting consideration. since the stock arms are hollow, what if you cut them in half at the middle, and got a thicker, stronger steel tube the exact right diameter to fit inside. then slide the 2 ends over it and weld it up. you could add length this way too, if you choose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN_S4 Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 ^^ I like this idea, however it sounds a lot more complicated than the other option of simply welding on armour. XplorX used a triangle shaped design. You could also take a 1/2 square tube and weld the entire arm in it, leaving the top open for the welds. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patqx4 Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 That's true, I think I may do both. I have new lca's with poly bushes sitting in the shed, I never want to have to deal with bent arms. If I do it, I will take lots of pics! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 (edited) Here`s a new model, cheaper that I have done... I ended up removing them because of the bushing having a bad design. But for the core structure, these are pretty much full proof. Made from 3/16'' 2x2 square tube. Fully welded and powder coated.. This is a new model that will hopefully sell better than my high end aluminum ones I use to make. Here`s one more idea for you... Edited August 4, 2015 by fleurys 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 (edited) I call dibs on testing! Any plans for making adjustable ones again? I know there are few guys who want or adjust the rear axle location after a lift. G Edited August 4, 2015 by ferrariowner123 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NovaPath Posted August 4, 2015 Author Share Posted August 4, 2015 Fleury's: What is the price of those bad boys? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NovaPath Posted August 4, 2015 Author Share Posted August 4, 2015 I bought a pair of OEM arms and had pieces of angle-iron welded to them. They have held up to some pretty extensive abuse ever since. https://www.dropbox.com/s/u1fqm38dparmofh/lca1.jpg?dl=0 Interesting Idea! I was actually laying in bed last night wondering If I could do something similar but without the welding, and use some 1/4 inch thick angle iron and some U-bolts... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN_S4 Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 I call dibs on testing! Any plans for making adjustable ones again? I know there are few guys who want or adjust the rear axle location after a lift. G I'm closer! lol I would definitely be interested in an adjustable set, or simply a set that's an inch longer and centres the wheels again. Are these hollow Steve? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 Interesting Idea! I was actually laying in bed last night wondering If I could do something similar but without the welding, and use some 1/4 inch thick angle iron and some U-bolts... U-bolts won't really work, because they'll get caught on whatever the arm drags over and will get pulled off. (Landing on or dragging over something is why trailing arms get bent.) Also, the increased strength comes from attaching [welding] the angle-iron along the entire length of the arm, not only at two ends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NovaPath Posted August 4, 2015 Author Share Posted August 4, 2015 U-bolts won't really work, because they'll get caught on whatever the arm drags over and will get pulled off. (Landing on or dragging over something is why trailing arms get bent.) Also, the increased strength comes from attaching [welding] the angle-iron along the entire length of the arm, not only at two ends. Those are the problems I ran into in my head last night, too..ha ha. I was thinking about using multiple(like 6) and having the ubolts on the top with a slightly larger angle bracket with holes drilled...at any rate it doesn't matter too much work and I'm sure it would break. I'll look into the angle bracket and welding idea, though. Just have to find someone willing to weld them for me... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patqx4 Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 If anyone has a bent or otherwise junk lower trailing arm, would you be willing to cut it in half to verify that it is completely hollow, and measure the inside diameter of the arm? It would be greatly appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 I call dibs on testing! Any plans for making adjustable ones again? I know there are few guys who want or adjust the rear axle location after a lift. G Adjustable ones are a pain to make so that they do not loosen on the trail and also the cost becomes prohibitive for customers.. Steevo from rugged has one set available and believe me at the price he sells them, he's not making alot of profit... That's one reason i'm not planning on doing them anymore.. Like I showed, I will be doing more of a fixed length (with possibly taking custom length order). 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 Fleury's: What is the price of those bad boys? No price yet, the product is not ready for prime time yet.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 I'm closer! lol I would definitely be interested in an adjustable set, or simply a set that's an inch longer and centres the wheels again. Are these hollow Steve? yes they are hollow . 3/16" thick. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenda3 Posted August 8, 2015 Share Posted August 8, 2015 Is there any reason ppl dont use good ol dom and hardened heims so its strong and adjustable? My plan was to just three link the rear of mine on jeep springs this winter. Sent from my LGMS395 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted August 9, 2015 Share Posted August 9, 2015 uhh, forgive my ignorance but why would you three link an already 4 linked rear? and i think Heim joints were what fluerys was using but he was having corrosion issues. -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenda3 Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 If you use a single triangular upper, the panhard bar goes in the trash. Now your rear end stays paerfectly centered and you can calculate cramming tires without guesswork too. I live in texas so we never consider corrosion here. But id make up some killer stainless bars if i lived in a salt and rust state...hmmm Sent from my LGMS395 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NovaPath Posted August 14, 2015 Author Share Posted August 14, 2015 So here is the question now, what would be stronger: 1. The rugged rocks offroad DOM links : https://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/hd-adjustable-lower-rear-suspension-links-nissan-pathfinder-1996-2004-by-rugged-rocks-p-3885.html?osCsid=64fk61qgt5ks4mbdlganbc6fp0 -Or- 2. Stock links with poly bushings and angle iron welded to the bottom? Price difference is going to be within 100.00, with the slightly cheaper one being the angle iron option... Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenda3 Posted August 14, 2015 Share Posted August 14, 2015 If your not a regular fab guy id buy those in a heartbeat. For 100 bucks more i think its a steal. Also you can keep the rear end from moving foreward too as well as set pinion angle ect. Sent from my LGMS395 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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