hawairish Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 Expanding on my last comment about not getting the SFD...if you have routine vehicle inspections that prohibit that sort of modification, definitely don't do the SFD. It's not something you can just quickly remove from the truck to pass inspection. What exactly are you looking to do with your truck? Your initial post only seems to suggest that you want to replace all your suspension components, but it's not clear why. Is there a particular tire size you're looking to run? This dictates how much lift you'll need. You mentioned larger all-terrains...what's available there? If all these basic parts are so difficult to find locally...even regionally...then what's your back-up plan if something fails? Like I said, I'd go with the OME setup, put 31" tires on, and see how it works out for your trips. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN_S4 Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 I agree hole heartedly with hawairish. A SFD is a pain in the butt. Ask me how I know. The end result is awesome but if you aren't planning on running 33's WITOUT cutting into your liners and fenders, I would recommend sticking with the OME coil lift, and spacers. This will give you aprox 3" of lift. Cheaper and easier on parts. WJ coils need to be cut to fit and you will need adapters for the bottom. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 I agree hole heartedly with hawairish. A SFD is a pain in the butt. Ask me how I know. The end result is awesome but if you aren't planning on running 33's WITOUT cutting into your liners and fenders, I would recommend sticking with the OME coil lift, and spacers. And I completely agree with CDN agreeing with me. I've installed an SFD on my own truck 3 times already (original install, spacer swap #1, and spacer swap #2...it all requires the same amount of work), including all my own homework to make them in the dimensions I wanted. It's a lot of work. I bought the truck used with OMEs at all corners and 245/70/16s. I was very pleased with that setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 I will manage to purchase the Jeep WJ coils/springs locally in Qatar. Are they supposed to be stock size or what? These are the options from Krypton Fabs. New! - Rear Jeep WJ Coil Spring Adapter / 1 Inch Lift Spacer - Add: $44 Rear Jeep WJ Coil Spring Adapters - Add: $30 If you go with the SFD. I used the regular Coil Spring Adapters and 5.5" lift WJ Jeep Springs. From Andrew At KF. If you have 2" lift springs up front, then that will combine with our 4" kit for a total of 6". In the rear you will want the 5.5" lift springs from a wj jeep. Iron rock offroad carries these. These will mount with our regular WJ adapters. For shocks in the rear, you will want a set of rear 2000 f350 2wd shocks. If your pathfinder is a 99+ (newer body style), you will want the same application but specifically a monotube type shock. I used 6.5" lift springs. I found them for $190 shipped at CSL Offroad, but they no longer seem to be in business. Their website is defunct. If you email Andrew, and tell him what you plan on doing with the SFD...and your application, he will be able to help you out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 (edited) Lift springs here. http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10346.html Like I said, I'd go with the OME setup, put 31" tires on, and see how it works out for your trips. This is how I started. 2" lift springs and KYB struts. Longer springs and shocks on the rear http://www.rocky-road.com/nissan-pathfinder-lift-kit.html You'll fit 31s comfortably. You may want to start with this....then see if you need (or want) more. When I went to the SFD, I kept the 2" lift and struts up front, resold the rear springs and shocks, and have my current setup. I agree hole heartedly with hawairish. A SFD is a pain in the butt. Ask me how I know. The end result is awesome but if you aren't planning on running 33's WITOUT cutting into your liners and fenders, I would recommend sticking with the OME coil lift, and spacers. This will give you aprox 3" of lift. Cheaper and easier on parts. WJ coils need to be cut to fit and you will need adapters for the bottom. I disagree. It wasn't hard at all. I did it myself, in a single car garage at a condo...only had to have help lifting the front differential back into place. Granted, I'm not afraid of getting dirty and comfortable working with air tools and wrenches. I run 33s and no trimming. I still rub on the front wheel well plastic at full turn...but it doesn't bother me. That plastic is stubborn and won't rip off...I thought for sure by now it would. lol! Edited July 27, 2015 by 96Pathfinder4x4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 I disagree. It wasn't hard at all. I did it myself, in a single car garage at a condo...only had to have help lifting the front differential back into place. Granted, I'm not afraid of getting dirty and comfortable working with air tools and wrenches. Yeah, not hard, just a lot of work. I've done all mine with a floor jack and jack stands (including that diff). Help is a luxury item I've rarely seen over the past 15 years when working on my vehicles. Unless you count my wife dropping my to make sure my truck isn't resting on my face, or my kids taking my tools when they see an opportunity (i.e., my feet hanging out from under the truck). CDN_S4 had an exception because of rust, of course, which presents some other challenges. But I wouldn't let difficulty of the SFD install dissuade you, DJ, if you really want to go that route. I would instead focus on parts availability. We might go without a failed or replacement part for a couple of days...you might go a couple of weeks. My real point is that I think your project may snowball quickly if you don't know what you're looking for nor how to achieve it. (Uh...so maybe snowballing isn't a good reference for Qatar, but I don't have a sand-related analogy ). Have you seen these? Where Can I Find Old Man Emu Supension In Doha? ARB Emirates Ironman 4x4 Middle East (Ironman produces a lift spring that two guys here are running. They have a medium and heavy duty option...Ironman4x4.com) Making a strut spacer locally should be trivial. Get a strut mount, trace the shape, make it uniformly X thick out of steel/aluminum/poly, use longer bolts on the strut mount, install. If you have Nissan Patrols or other LandCruiser series over there, you might even have better/cheaper options than WJ springs. We don't have those here, so we can't really chime in, but I've seen some references to Patrol springs before on NPORA and the PCoA forum (the Australia forum where they also have Patrols/LCs). You'd need to do a lot more homework. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 Yeah, not hard, just a lot of work. I've done all mine with a floor jack and jack stands (including that diff). Help is a luxury item I've rarely seen over the past 15 years when working on my vehicles. Unless you count my wife dropping my to make sure my truck isn't resting on my face, or my kids taking my tools when they see an opportunity (i.e., my feet hanging out from under the truck). I feel ya, on that respect. Seems like noone works on their own stuff anymore. It's become more of a consumerist society. Need something? Buy it. Something needs done? Hire someone. If I can't do it myself, I'll spend time figuring out how. Unless it comes to attic work or specialty work. I have more time than money...and I work slow. hahah! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 I feel ya, on that respect. Seems like noone works on their own stuff anymore. It's become more of a consumerist society. Need something? Buy it. Something needs done? Hire someone. If I can't do it myself, I'll spend time figuring out how. Unless it comes to attic work or specialty work. I have more time than money...and I work slow. hahah! It's a sad reality. And I can't even find anything that I need locally these days; I have to buy everything online. But I'm also somewhere in between...I usually buy something and use it for some unintended purpose. I'm no fabricator, but I bleed MacGyver. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Remus92 Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 It's a sad reality. And I can't even find anything that I need locally these days; I have to buy everything online. But I'm also somewhere in between...I usually buy something and use it for some unintended purpose. I'm no fabricator, but I bleed MacGyver. I can't find anything local. I'm in the land of the big 3. I'm lucky if I can find a pathfinder in a jy. And the z? Forget it not in this state. I usually start looking for parts online and if I need something now I go to the parts stores. End up paying more but my wait time is 1 to 2 days rather than 4 to 5. Agree on the jerryrigging. My best so far was using hinges and random bolts to make my steering wheel puller into a crankshaft pulley puller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 Agree on the jerryrigging. My best so far was using hinges and random bolts to make my steering wheel puller into a crankshaft pulley puller. Let me tell you about the 2x4 I used to for holding R200 diffs for torquing on a vice, keeping an axle stationary so I could test LSDs break-away torques, as a torque extension on said axle, and most recently to un-bend a bracket for a tire carrier mount... But not to get too far off topic... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJDESI Posted March 1, 2016 Author Share Posted March 1, 2016 I am just about a click away from ordering the following for my SFD lift... plz advise: WJ 4" rear lift springs: 155$ http://www.ironrocko....com/10335.html WJ 2" front lift springs: 135$ http://www.ironrocko....com/10320.html Rear Shocks: Bilstein 33185569 5100 Series Gas Shock Absorber http://www.amazon.co...009FU6I6G?psc=1 Front Shocks: I will go with KYB... let me know if you have something better So my question to you is... am i missing something here? regards, DJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJDESI Posted January 7, 2017 Author Share Posted January 7, 2017 After a whole years wait, this is what happened.. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJDESI Posted January 7, 2017 Author Share Posted January 7, 2017 Continued 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJDESI Posted January 7, 2017 Author Share Posted January 7, 2017 Continued... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJDESI Posted January 7, 2017 Author Share Posted January 7, 2017 Following are direct links to their respective websites I purchased from. WJ 2" Front Coil Springs WJ 4" Rear Coil Springs KYB 335032 and KYB 335033 Front Shocks Bilstein 5125 Seried 33-185569 Rear Shocks AirLift AirBags - 60742 1.5" Wheel Spacers - Purchased from eBay but now the link is not available but they were for 110$ I think... Reese 2" Tow Ball Reese LED Hitch Step A note to all: This forum has guided me in so many different ways. As a human we are supposed to make mistakes and we should make mistakes to have that knowledge. I have asked so many stupid questions and every time, the members here patiently answered each and every question. I am thankful to all of them. You have made my car look and feel awesome. Warm regards... DJ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TowndawgR50 Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 Congratulations. Make sure to post some photos when its all installed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 Cool! But what's with the front WJ springs? I don't think you'll be able to use those anywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJDESI Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 (edited) Cool! But what's with the front WJ springs? I don't think you'll be able to use those anywhere. I will not...?? I thought its supposed to be for both front and the rear!!! What do I do now...????? Congratulations. Make sure to post some photos when its all installed I sure will.. Thank you Edited January 8, 2017 by DJDESI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 If you're still doing the SFD, you just need stock R50 front springs (or OME, etc.) for the front and the WJ rear springs for the rear. The WJ rear springs also get cut and require some sort of adapter...people have bought them because the inner diameter is close to the R50 rear springs (except at the tail end, which is why it gets cut off). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJDESI Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 ... The WJ rear springs also get cut and require some sort of adapter... Where do I cut them from and what length? Yup, I will be doing SFD. Can you please guide me further? I clearly misunderstood and was under the impression that I will need 2" lift springs for the front AND 4" lift springs for the rear as that is what I have been asking... So theres no use for the WJ springs for the front on pathfinder? Now I have WJ 4"lift springs for the rear which I need to cut. I got the bilstein shocks for the rear too. Also have the KYB shocks for front and apparently the WJ 2" front springs are pretty much useless for my application... I am sure I am missing something so kindly correct me if I am wrong. Much appreciated... Regards, DJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 In re-reading the posts, I can see where the confusion was...we were talking in the context of WJ rear springs, but "rear" got dropped from discussion and was then misinterpreted as being "all" springs. I see it wasn't caught on your confirmation post a while ago, either. Unfortunately, the front WJ springs can't easily be used. You'll need OME lift springs (the medium or heavy duty, the latter giving slightly more lift), or 2" lift springs from Automotive Customizers (4x4parts.com). (This assumes you're going for a 6" lift, or 4" SFD + 2" lift.) As for how much to cut the rears, start by cutting only one side at the spring at the point where the inner diameter is the max...that is, cut off the least amount of the pigtail so that it'll fit the upper perch. Then you'll need some adapter to sit atop the lower spring perch on the axle that will allow you to use the pigtail that's still on the opposite side of the spring. If it's been a while, I'd highly recommend searching for more SFD discussions on the forum...but the search function of the forum ignores 3-letter words, so use Google to search "NPORA SFD WJ springs" or similar to find better results. There are several of them. I can't really give any more specific details about the WJ springs because that's not the approach I took, but the concept is pretty simple. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJDESI Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 A roof rack makes things easier and gives you plenty of space along with options you can have. There are plenty of after-market roof racks available but I was looking for something that will give me a good nights sleep with a million star view on top and also provide support for the ARB Awning and the LED bar. I went with a custom RR. Gave my friend a design and with some further brainstorming, he fabricated this awesome roof rack for my pathfinder. Every weekend, I head out to desert. Putting up a tent in the middle of night after a long bumpy ride and then putting everything back the next day is tiring, so I had a mesh on top so I can simply roll out a folding foam mattress and use a sleeping bag as a blanket. Works perfectly and also gives a great view of people and bonfire from up top. My friends just love it and we spend most of our time up there playing or just laying lazy star-gazzing This is what I have: This is how I sleep now 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJDESI Posted January 10, 2017 Author Share Posted January 10, 2017 Now that I have screwed up my dream lift and will have to postpone it. Yup, I am frustrated and almost broke as far as the lift is concerned but will still go ahead with the SFD now that I am too deep in a rabbit hole already. So... let me get this straight once again... bare with me I have 6" WJ lift springs for the rear, what will I need for the front? Can I use stock (new) springs for the front instead of buying OldManEmu or AC and then spending double their price for shipping to where I live? Any other alternative or compatibility without using lift spacers? When I fab the blocks, do I make them 4 inches or 6 inches to achieve a level or maybe with a slight rake? I will get extended brake lines (front and rear) - Frontier brakelines work for the rear too I have KYB shocks for front I have Bilsteins for the rear I am looking at the stuff and i cannot do anything about it... ahhhh Regards, DJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 Now that I have screwed up my dream lift and will have to postpone it. Yup, I am frustrated and almost broke as far as the lift is concerned but will still go ahead with the SFD now that I am too deep in a rabbit hole already. So... let me get this straight once again... bare with me I have 6" WJ lift springs for the rear, what will I need for the front? Can I use stock (new) springs for the front instead of buying OldManEmu or AC and then spending double their price for shipping to where I live? Any other alternative or compatibility without using lift spacers? When I fab the blocks, do I make them 4 inches or 6 inches to achieve a level or maybe with a slight rake? I will get extended brake lines (front and rear) - Frontier brakelines work for the rear too I have KYB shocks for front I have Bilsteins for the rear I am looking at the stuff and i cannot do anything about it... ahhhh Regards, DJ All is not lost. But, I must stress that there is probably more research required on your part if you're still needing to ask some of these questions. (And by no means do I say this negatively; I don't mind explaining things, though I hope they're not lost in translation, of course.) Let's take a step backwards, though... The "standard" 4" SFD was intended to use all stock front suspension parts...it is essentially a spacer kit. It included 4" strut spacers, 4" subframe spacers, and 4" motor mount spacers. Since there is no off-the-shelf 4" rear lift solution, the proposed method was to use a rear WJ lift spring, which would require cutting one end of the spring so that it could fit the upper spring perch on the chassis. An adapter is required to mount the uncut end of the WJ spring to the lower spring perch on the axle. It's important to note that a 6" WJ lift spring does not mean you get 6" of lift on the R50. You will cut—and possibly re-cut—the 6" WJ springs to get 4" of lift on the R50. it is not as simple as cutting 2" off the spring. You will have to determine the amount of rear lift and rake through trial and error, which is why you'd initially want to cut off the least amount of spring as possible. Now...to get 5"-6" of lift, you do everything for the 4" SFD, and then must use front R50 lift springs (OME, AC, Snake, IronMan, Pedders...whatever is available in your region). They must be for an R50 because they have to fit the R50 strut, without being heavily customized. The front WJ spring doesn't fit the stock R50 strut. You can use stock struts (there are no "lift" struts for an R50). For the rear, the 6" WJ may or may not work (I don't know the specs of the springs), but I suspect they will. In both scenarios, the SFD spacers are all 4". Your Air Lift bags may also not work in the WJ springs. They are meant for the shape R50 springs, not WJ springs. But, it may be possible to make them fit, you'll just need to modify their installation a little, since the WJ spring adapter may interfere with the air line. If you can get around that, you can make them work. You've also not mentioned anything about the steering link, which is one of the more critical parts. Have you gotten this link, or do you intend to make a custom one? The same length is use for the 4" and 6" options above. My recommendation at this point is to just run a 4" SFD, stock front suspension, and rear WJ springs. But if you want 5"-6", all you should need is front R50 lift springs. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowboarder12345 Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 The 6" rear WJ lift springs you have currently will give your rear somewhere around 7"to 8" of lift. I made the same mistake actually, I ordered the 6" springs too. I ended up having to cut them down about 2" to get 6" of lift in the rear. The crappy part about this is that if you cut the spring down past the pig tail the springs do not sit safely against the body imo. You will need to get some sort of keeper/cradle made to remedy this. The bright side is that you can basically just use a piece of pipe with a slightly larger inner diameter than the spring coil diameter. I will see if I can find any pics of the ones I made for myself, otherwise I can take some when I get off work. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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