paul.thoroughgood.3 Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 Was thinking today...what if someone made a longer lower control arm? If the control arm pushed the strut further out, it'd give less neg camber, more travel and wouldn't require sfd. At first glance, it'd stress the cv's more, but if you went 3" longer, you'd get 2" more lift with the same angle on cv's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushnut Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 there has been a few folks who have done this for a 2wd, making a pre runner of sorts, not sure about 4wd though, wouldn't you also need to lengthen the axles as well as TRE? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jyeager Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 If you are lengthening the control arm to increase travel, then you would also need a custom steering knuckle too. But perhaps that can be handled by an adapter that bolts to the knuckle where the strut does and bridges to the strut which would be in the same place it always is (same angle...a must or else you would need an angled top spacer and then you negate the benefit of the longer control arm because you'd need a longer travel strut....) That's an interesting idea. Custom lower control arms aren't hard to build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 He's right they aren't that hard to hurt build. The reason so any people don't do it is because of all the supporting mods you need to do after, like what was said, knuckles, probably need something to account for the angle on the show tower, new and custom CD'S, new sway bar mount, etc. Would be sick if anyone were to do that. -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 Honestly, I wouldn't go that route if you just wanted lift. For that effort, you'd be better of considering an SAS. What the guys mentioned above is the tip of the iceberg. Long travel kits for Frontier and Xterra can run up to $3000...and that's without longer CVs, coilovers, pre-runner fenders, and other things that are required and probably don't even exist for an R50. It would not be remotely cheap, and the gains would be no better than an SFD. If you plan to lift your R50 any appreciable height, an SFD becomes necessary (noting that dropping the subframe is what corrects CV and steering angles, and does not provide any lift in itself). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul.thoroughgood.3 Posted November 21, 2014 Author Share Posted November 21, 2014 True, didn't really think that through lol just popped into my head while looking at possible mounts for bar work. Seems like sfd is the way to go if I can ever afford it haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 Obviously not to say it's not possible, but it wouldn't be easy. The strut is the most limiting factor on our trucks. If I were to do anything short of an SAS, it would be to eliminate the MacPherson strut system and build UCAs mounts to use Frontier/Xterra, Titan, or even 4Runner UCAs and coilovers. Then you start opening doors to more off-the-shelf lift options. (I've actually given thought to a bolt-on system that could achieve this.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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