Mauitrailguy Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 Thanks to a lot of time, research and advice the SAS began yesterday. This is a little nerve racking but I'm about a third done IMO. Please send advice and chime in as this is on going. I am planning on putting the third link on the passenger side. The joints have not arrived yet but they are 1.25" heims with high missalignment. Inside frame pan hard with same joints ran to the top of the differential. The steering will remain the Waggy steering until the suspension is dialed, but before the alignment I will switch it up. I'm still working the details of that out. I am using the same coils as the rear, Calmini 3 inch lift coils and shocks. Bring on the comments, please dont be a jerk, I am learning and this is stressful, but insight is welcome. DOM And so it gets cut out. Thanks to NissanNut I have the right brake parts Made these from .25" plate Axle alligned and marked every inch from the knuckle Frame reinforced 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauitrailguy Posted February 28, 2014 Author Share Posted February 28, 2014 IFS Crap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hytekrednek Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 Just wondering what you are going to do with your UCA's???? Which lift are they?? How much?? Just wondering. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauitrailguy Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 My Brother has dibs on them, Sorry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hytekrednek Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Hey you never know till you ask. By the way which UCA's are they? and what are your thoughts on them. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauitrailguy Posted March 3, 2014 Author Share Posted March 3, 2014 Hey you never know till you ask. By the way which UCA's are they? and what are your thoughts on them. James Calmini UCA's, not a huge fan. When I took the rig in for an alignment they told me the upper bushing were shot two weeks after installation. Not really sure how but it is what it is. Also, they are already a little rusty after just 2 years and the paint is already peeling off the arms. I also had issues with the nuts falling off of the cross pin where they mount, ended up welding those after months of trying things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hytekrednek Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Thanks for the real world info on the calmini arms. Appreciate it. Good luck with the swap. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauitrailguy Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share Posted March 4, 2014 I have all the links hooked up, the third link on the passenger side wasn't gonna work with the starter being there and the issues that would arise with the panhard being so high up on the differential, as if I weren't already trying to stuff 10 lbs of crap in a 5lb sack that would have been worse. That being said it is on driver side. Lower links are about 27" long bolt to bolt, upper link is about 18" but it looks super short. I tried setting it down yesterday, but the panhard is hitting the top of the differential. I need to rotate it or move it about a inch. It was barely hitting but there is not cover on it right now so that issue will only get worse. Other than that things are working out good. I plan on fixing the panhard today and getting some steering on it possibly. All the links are completely adjustable and the local alignment shop said alignment should not be and issue given how much everything can be tuned. Here's some pics. What do you guys think. More to come tonight, hopefully. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauitrailguy Posted March 8, 2014 Author Share Posted March 8, 2014 Everything is just about done except the steering. I am having an issue with the drag link hitting the cross link at the angle to the pitman arm. I can only think of two solutions, 1.) higher lift 2.) pull pitman off and rotate 180 degrees to point forward at center. I will have to cut the frame tab to do that but other than that are there any other issues with this? Suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauitrailguy Posted March 8, 2014 Author Share Posted March 8, 2014 Everything is just about done except the steering. I am having an issue with the drag link hitting the cross link at the angle to the pitman arm. I can only think of two solutions, 1.) higher lift 2.) pull pitman off and rotate 180 degrees to point forward at center. I will have to cut the frame tab to do that but other than that are there any other issues with this? Suggestions? So that just switches the steering from left to right and vice versa=not gonna work. Should have thought about, it make sense when i think about it. that I am going toward the route of moving the steering box up as much as possible. This is driving me crazy right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGFINDERMAN Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 How do you have your panhard mounted to the frame? Also, i think that upper link is gonna give you some problems being so short. If i did it over again, i would have modified my trans crossmember again to where i could make the upper the same length as the lowers. It keeps the angle of your diff consistent with your output on the transfer case. I see some binding issues happening with your upper being that short and angled up. What size tires are you planning on running? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauitrailguy Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 Planning on running 33's. I was looking at the upper link and thought about the same thing you are saying as far as the length. The panhard is mounted behind the steering pitman about and inch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Magicians_Eye Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 Just my own personal opinion but I really would reconsider welding that upper link to the cast diff housing. There is a very debatable issue whether this is safe or not. I'm not looking to debate just pointing what I see as an issue. This is your only upper link on a 3 link setup you want that to be as strong as possible and not have to question whether or not this will fail on you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauitrailguy Posted March 12, 2014 Author Share Posted March 12, 2014 Any suggestion on were to put it. It seems to be a very common practice on many applications to place it on top of the diff. With appropriate heat and feed speed it seems to be a sound option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGFINDERMAN Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 I agree with the addition of a truss. It is kind of a pain due to space, but it will give you added strength. You dont want that mount tearing loose when your rolling 50 down the road back from the trails. You could at least build up to your existing mount with some 1/4" plate and get a good strong weld on both sides. See pic below. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauitrailguy Posted March 12, 2014 Author Share Posted March 12, 2014 Yeah, I agree with that. I made allot of mistakes here due to inexperience. I have to move the axle back an inch or so and I have to move the third link mount back and much lower. Then I am getting a cross member as well as a custom pitman arm to run heim steering. I am looking for flat top knuckles to run full crossover and then I will deal with the track bar and exhaust. Then finally a driveshaft. This is getting pricy but I am gonna get this right before I drive it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Magicians_Eye Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 Even a little small truss that connects to the axle tubes would be better. I know clearance is an issue though. You have to do whatever is needed to make this work correctly and be safe. The issue with welding to cast is the potential for their to be hidden cracks and or just a weaker mounting point. Doesn't really matter how big the mount is. It get's really complicated. It's how cast reacts to being heated and cooled. It's about cast being a very dirty metal with lots of impurities that can effect the weld or the metal that the weld is melting into. Many people will tell you to avoid welding to cast in any situation where it's put under allot of load. Yes it's done but there is a high risk of failure so that's why people avoid it. Just take a look at the after market trusses on the market. The good ones do not weld to the cast diff housing, they bridge over it and maybe bolt to the pinion housing. The diff housing is already under a ton of stress and you don't need to do anything to it that could potentially compromise it's strength.The "simple" answer is to be safe and find or make the room for a truss. The amount of damage that would take place in a failure of the upper link mount would be pretty extensive. If it happens at high speed or on some sketchy cliff you also run the risk of getting really hurt too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauitrailguy Posted March 12, 2014 Author Share Posted March 12, 2014 Good copy on that, I have a bit of stuff to do. I am sure I can make room for a truss, I fit all this other stuff under there so I don't see how I could find a way. Thanks for the input. I will have updates over the next couple weeks as I get the kinks out, now to go find flat top knuckles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauitrailguy Posted April 24, 2014 Author Share Posted April 24, 2014 Here is an update.... I changed allot of stuff here. The third link is lengthened. I made the mounts from .25 plate. Crossmember was a custom order as well as the steering arm which is double sheer for the heims. Kar Tek was the source for the misalignments and the bolts for the steering. They are F911, 20% stronger than grade eight. There will eventually be a truss on the differential mount, after about 7 hours of research and talking with a friend who is a certified welder, I determined that as is will be fine until the 37's and 3 more inches of lift go on, as well as the front driveline components. I have a line on a shaft, hubs and possibly a two piece shaft for the rear. Im totally diggin it as of now. I am moving over the next two months so things will slow down, but definitely more to come. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
APACHECHIEF13 Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 Nice set up. How do you like the calmini shocks? I need to find a bad ass long travel shock for my pathy. I had calmini on order but 6 weeks later and still no word so I cancelled them Sent from my Z795G using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauitrailguy Posted May 9, 2014 Author Share Posted May 9, 2014 They work pretty well. I might change the angle to get more travel. I like that they aren't pressurized so you get a nice feel when driving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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