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1994 SE Made in California?


AZJOE
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I see that, for some reason I thought you had a 95, no idea what makes the CA or Fed one's different, unless it's a CA Smog number thing like with the CA only cat converters, ??

 

I would go with the federal one, the CA part may be tuned for the lower CA emissions, and you are not in CA anyway.

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Too late, hahaha. I ordered the CA EGR so I know it will fit. Funny thing, I'm also ordering a EGR for a 96 Geo Metro that also had a EGR code and it actually cost more than the Nissan. Anyway, I will try change both the EGR and EGR temp sensor and see if the light goes off. If not, will have to try changing the knock sensor too. But I'm sure you are right and this will hopefully take care of it. Thanks again. I'll keep you posted as to what happens in the next few weeks.

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Why would the CA one fit? Not that I think they are different in how they mount but your truck was a CA truck but you said the engine was a JDM engine, so why would you think the CA part would be correct on a JDM engine?

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What I'm thinking is that the vehicle is going to be wired, and fitted for a CA EGR. But I honestly don't know. It probably dosen't make any difference. but then again, possibly the mechanic I hired to swap engines could have taken the old EGR off the old engine, and installed it on the Jap motor too, right? I don't know what parts he switched from to the other. I'll let you nkow if it dosen't work.

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I never knew there was even a difference between CA and Fed and auto and manual EGR valves, when I bought the JDM engine for my pathfinder I know it was bolted to an automatic trans as the company separated the engine from the tranny in front of me. No idea if it actually makes a difference if a manual trans EGR was installed on an auto trans engine. Do not know what the difference is between the parts, they all look the same with the same fittings.

 

I'm sure what ever one you use will work fine.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey, here's what happened. . . Took my new EGR and EGR temp sensor from Rock Auto over to my mechanic and he installed the temp sensor ok, but the EGR did not fit! If I can figure out how to attach pics here, I will show you a pic of mine on the truck that shows it has a separate small pipe on it, but the new one doesn't have it. And it appears from your pics that your truck doesn't have it either. But I ordered the CA one, so I don't know what happend. Anyway, the mechanic installed the sensor ok, then cleaned the old EGR and said it looked ok to him. But the Check engine light was on. So I brought it home and looked at another post of yours on how to check your own codes. Pulled the front seat out, discovered my ECU has a screw, rather than a switch. Followed instructions and got the same two codes as before. EGR and knock sensor. So I'm back to zero again. The light did go out for a while, but after 3 miles came on again. Crap-o! I guess I better ship back the EGR and get the right one, then maybe order a knock sensor and just install it also?

Well, unable to figure out how to put a pic in here. But take my word for it, the EGR on the truck has another small pipe on the front of it going up to this other round brass looking thing. ???

 

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can you take a pic and e-mail it to me? if so I will post it. Did you reset the codes after the mechanic worked on the truck?

I can send pics after I get home from work, if you'll send me your email address.

I had the mechanic take a battery cable off to clear codes, and I did the same also after I got it home. But the light came right back on. After I read the codes, I fiddled with the screw for a while and at one point the check engine light was blinking on and off. Eventually it went off entirely and I drove it about 4 miles and thought maybe it was ok, then the light came on again. I didn't read codes again after that since I reinstalled the seat again and figured it would be the same two anyway, EGR and knock sensor.

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A picture would be helpful.

 

I'm not sure what you read about checking the ECU, but this one explains the proceedure, the switch VS screw types, the different modes, how to clear it, etc...

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/21-ecu-self-diagnostics-for-87-95-pathfinder/

 

B

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You shouldn't have to take the seat out to read the codes, normally I just slide it all the way forward and go in from the back door. The ECU should have a screw. here is my e-mail - ahardb0dy@aol.com

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This is the federal, auto trans EGR from the rockauto site:

 

zxl6a0.jpg

 

This is the CA, auto trans EGR from rockauto site, I see the extra pipe fitting:

 

vpf3ph.jpg

 

Did you order part number EGV445? That is the second pic part number, see if on the top of the new EGR if it has this number on the sticker - V17-028

 

My 94 is a Federal truck and the JDM engine was from Japan so they probably don;t use the CA style emissions over there either, probably why mine bolted right up, your truck is a CA truck, the JDM engine you bought may have had the egr switched over being it was in CA, or it wasn't a JDM engine ???

Edited by ahardb0dy
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This is the federal, auto trans EGR from the rockauto site:

 

zxl6a0.jpg

 

This is the CA, auto trans EGR from rockauto site, I see the extra pipe fitting:

 

vpf3ph.jpg

 

Did you order part number EGV445? That is the second pic part number, see if on the top of the new EGR if it has this number on the sticker - V17-028

 

My 94 is a Federal truck and the JDM engine was from Japan so they probably don;t use the CA style emissions over there either, probably why mine bolted right up, your truck is a CA truck, the JDM engine you bought may have had the egr switched over being it was in CA, or it wasn't a JDM engine ???

I ordered EGV445, but that's not what I received. I received a regular EGR like you have on your truck.

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So here are the OP pictures, first one is his EGR valve showing that BPT part on top:

 

2mo5pmr.jpg

 

 

this is the part they sent him, must have been boxed wrong as he did order the correct part number:

 

htuu4o.jpg

 

 

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