MaritimeMan Posted January 27, 2005 Share Posted January 27, 2005 31" BFG's 15X7 wheels. Lowest I've ever run em is about 26 lbs/in^2. What the lowest you can safely wheel on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumper Posted January 27, 2005 Share Posted January 27, 2005 30x9.50x15s at 15psi to get off the beach if i go low on it it takes an hour ,no idea how far, to get off the beach over sand and stone of all sizes never had a problem with the tyres i did bust an alloy wheel (hole in rim) getting a stone jammed while at 15psi ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted January 27, 2005 Share Posted January 27, 2005 I read in a magazine article (use this information appropriately!) that you can USUALLY get away with as little as 10 psi on a non-beadlock wheel. Any less than 10 psi you really want beadlocks. And of course, you have to really slow down (10-15 max) to avoid overheating and damaging sidewalls. At 10 psi, the factors that affect your success: - weight of the vehicle (heavier will peel bead loose sooner) - side loading due to rocks or side slope angle or tight turns (more side load will peel sooner) - the individual wheel and tire combo. Some beads seat tighter, some looser. On a pathy, we could probably get away with 8 or 9 psi in a straight line on sand or mud! My personal limits are: 20 psi unless I have re-inflation capabilities on board! Even at 20, I keep speeds down under 55 and monitor carcass temps (stop and feel) until I can re-inflate. 15 psi unless I really, really need to go lower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkpath96 Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 I've been trying to figure out the best tire pressure for my BFGoodrich All-Terrain TA/KO's. I have searched endlessly for the recommended psi on the tire wall but can't find it. The sticker in my pathy says 26 psi, but does that not depend on tire type/size? My garage told me 34 psi, so that's where they are at now, but they look to me like they are over-inflated, and I feel like I've lost traction in the snow... I'm going back to 26 psi to see if it makes a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mookie Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 When I had 31"s and 33"'s both on 15x8, I'd go as low as 8-10psi if the trails were funky enough. If things weren't to bad, the average was right around 18-20psi. Winter runs have to be careful as ice tends to start the leaks so depending on the trail, you'd find yourself airing up pretty quickly. With my 35"s on 15x10, I just air down to around 20psi average. It really depends on what type of trails and the conditions of the trails and how you drive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted February 11, 2005 Share Posted February 11, 2005 8-10 at the beach, 15-20 on the trail for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel Boy Posted February 11, 2005 Share Posted February 11, 2005 Um, does no one else run tubes??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted February 11, 2005 Share Posted February 11, 2005 Um, does no one else run tubes??? Nope, hence tubeless tires. I've got 31x10.5 BFG M/T's, and they claim something like 44 lb max. I keep them in the upper 30's on road, and have rarely had reason to air them down much at all, maybe a few lb's. But then, I'm stubborn and I'm at about 45K miles on these tires, which isn't bad for mudders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adelard of Bath Posted February 11, 2005 Share Posted February 11, 2005 Somewhat unrelated but back when i was a mailman, in the winter, I had snowtires on a minivan and I would run them 8psi....probably up to 55mph for a few minutes at a time....then I noticed that when I came out in the morning, the heat in the tire had melted the snow/ice I parked on and overnight froze it into a tireshaped piece of ice that locked me down to the driveway....one time I could hardly break out so I stopped running them so low Wasn't underinflation the root cause of the whole Ford Explorer/etc rollover fiasco of a few years back? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted February 11, 2005 Share Posted February 11, 2005 Underinflation at speed is the problem you're refering to. Low inflation while while stuck in the much is a much different beast. I dare you to flip an Exploder while running 8lbs. at 3mph on the trail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel Boy Posted February 13, 2005 Share Posted February 13, 2005 You see, what you do is put tubes in side your tubless tyres, enabling them to be run at very low pressures, and eliminating the risk of knocking the tyres of the bead, or getting debrie jamed in the bead causing a slow leak due to the low presures. Thats what i was getting at. Obviously its not common practice in tha states yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted February 16, 2005 Share Posted February 16, 2005 Wasn't underinflation the root cause of the whole Ford Explorer/etc rollover fiasco of a few years back? Most objective engineers believe so. Some of us are quite convinced that was 95% of the cause. And unfortunately for Firestone, their tires appear to have been SLIGHTLY less tolerant of gross neglect and abuse. Of course, Ford's upper management and attorneys would prefer you believe otherwise... And they sure snookered the media!!! Too much heat WILL cause overheating, delamination of cords, and increase risk of blowouts. The faster you go, the more heat. The less air pressure, the more heat. The greater the load the more heat. BTW, running tubes will increase heat generation, and the general rule of thumb is to decrease the max speed rating by 1-2 categories when using them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted February 17, 2005 Share Posted February 17, 2005 I saw these so called "internal bead locks" in this month's Petersen's 4Wheel & Offroad. In the US they go by the brand name Staun Bead Lock, but they are Austrailian products normally known as SecondAir. Its really a slick idea, I thought. They use a very low profile inner tube that sits way down inside your normal offroad tire, and it pushes directly on the bead from the inside to force it onto the rim all the way down close to or at 0lbs pressure. It seems to be a sound enough idea to keep things in place, and they say an added benefit is if you manage to pop or tear a tire, you could limp a short distance to safety or the road on that inner tube type deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel Boy Posted February 17, 2005 Share Posted February 17, 2005 Rims with bead locks are cheaper per rim than the second air per rim beleive it or not!!!! There must be some advantage in the second air system over the rim bead locks else they wouldn't sell any i guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudfinder Posted February 23, 2005 Share Posted February 23, 2005 33x12.50 on 15x7 i take it down to 10-15psi on the trail and 30-35 on the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted February 24, 2005 Author Share Posted February 24, 2005 Second air? What is this second air you speak of? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumper Posted February 24, 2005 Share Posted February 24, 2005 take a look here second air Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4wheeler Posted February 24, 2005 Share Posted February 24, 2005 I have 235 75 15 BFG ats and i run 36 on the road. I have run them down to 7-8 pounds in the river bottom to pull my cousins 4x2 pathy out of some SOFT sand and had to drive home on them. I wouldnt go far on them but i was close to home. I can go all the way to 50 in my at's according to the sidewall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted February 25, 2005 Author Share Posted February 25, 2005 Holy crap!!! 249.00 A pop, thats insane. My wheel tire combo doesn't cost that a piece. But I guess if you are real serious, and have the cash it would be a great investment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumper Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 that is 249 nz dollars about 125 us dollars Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel Boy Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 Hehe, some of you guys should migrate out here, you would filthy rich!!!!!! Double your cash just like that!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LINDERS Posted February 27, 2005 Share Posted February 27, 2005 I'm glad you brought this up. I had a discussion with the guys at Discount Tire regarding tire pressure and wasn't sure if i believed them or not. So maybe one of you guys will know. The Discount guy told me that the tire pressure listed on the inside of the VEHICLE door is the proper tire pressure for the VEHICLE regardless of the tire on the vehicle. However, I argued that the tire pressure listed on the TIRE is the proper pressure the the TIRE, regardless of the vehicle. Which is right? (Assuming were talking about daily driving tire pressure and not off road.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosspbig Posted February 27, 2005 Share Posted February 27, 2005 I would go with whatever the tire says on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted February 28, 2005 Share Posted February 28, 2005 The tire pressure listed on the side of the tire is it's maximum capacity, not it's reccommended running pressure. Go by the doorjam sticker, or whatever makes you happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted February 28, 2005 Share Posted February 28, 2005 Um, does no one else run tubes??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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