TXPower Posted January 18, 2014 Author Share Posted January 18, 2014 Kingman, you done the swap, I cant find your thread build? I guess I probably could re-coup the HP loss with some mods. Or, as said, forced induction of some sort. Will a VG33e be within the same price range regardless of the donor vehicle, I mean I know that will vary based a number of factors but is it apples to apples? Off to change my thermostat and start finishing my wiring repair. TXPower Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 I did Z31 MPFI from TBI on my '88. It'll be a VG33E when I get home next in a few months. If you pull the engine from a wrecking yard the price will most likely be the same. Companies that pull them usually charge more per liter and also more based on how new the engine is or mileage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TXPower Posted January 18, 2014 Author Share Posted January 18, 2014 (edited) Yeah, that's what I figured Kingman. What year model range will you be looking for your donor engine? Oh and update for everyone, as I began changing the T-stat, got down to it and WHAT A MESS. Full of rust. The housing that it sits in, its rusted thru...... It gave me a moment of clarity. I suspect the freeze plugs and who knows what else are rusted out rusted thru and fill in the blank with other problems. Every layer I have pulled so far on the engine has shown another rotten layer. Gave me a moment of complete clarity. Time for the VG33E Swap!. So, shifting gears now, I'm gonna pull this engine. Having said all that, I'm gonna search the site but hit me quick with advice on pulling this thing out, do's, don't, look out for this etc etc etc.............. Oh and the 5spd tranny is bad too so pull it out first, then pull motor? Thanks all, TXPower Edited January 18, 2014 by TXPower Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 The freeze plugs should be SS, at least the OEM replacement one's are. I had to replace the metal pipe that runs from the thermostat down to the lower hose way back, I used a junk yard pipe was better than the one I had. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TXPower Posted January 18, 2014 Author Share Posted January 18, 2014 Yeah, metal pipe was a mess and the neck that covers the T stat but those weren't the real issue. Its the other side of T stat housing, the one bolted to the block that the stat sits in, its rusted right thru and what I could see into the water jacket was really nasty. TXPower Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 well if you find a low mileage VG33 or possible a JDM engine you should be good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TXPower Posted January 18, 2014 Author Share Posted January 18, 2014 Man, I'm reading these old posts on pulling this engine and its confusing, pull the diff, don't pull the diff, move the tranny back......... anyone done this with a 5spd that can say just do this or that? Thanks, TXPower Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 (edited) I would disconnect/drop the tranny first (it has to come out anyway) to give you room, access, visibility and because it is a heavy bastage. I wouldn't want to wiggle both of them around together. . That may or may not allow you to to pull the motor without pulling the front diff. I seem to recall removing the oil pan is a trick, as well as someone remving the radiator support and making it a breeze. I've only pulled a tranny, so no first hand knowledge about removing the motor... B I suspect the levels of experience, assistance and equipment (not to mention prefference) dictate the different methods of removal. Edited January 18, 2014 by Precise1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TXPower Posted January 18, 2014 Author Share Posted January 18, 2014 Hit everything I can see that may hold, motor, tranny, exhaust or tbars with PB Blast. Bought to pull tranny first. TXPower Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gv280z Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 you should wear goggles / eye protection, you're gonna have all kinds of crud falling in your hair, face, and eyes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TXPower Posted January 19, 2014 Author Share Posted January 19, 2014 Well, slower progress than I had hoped for but, ah, oh well. I got the torsion bars out and everything else soaking in PB Blast. Will resume tomorrow. Spending that much time underneath you get a good chance to look at things. Underbody, frame, suspension components, cross members, everything looks good. Zero rust. gv280z, yeah, my eyes and contacts are gunked sufficiently. Its been many years since I've done this stuff. Almost therapeutic, I've missed it. But, I can tell I'm 40 something.......... Anybody else got any advice for tomorrow as far as order of operations, tricks, tips? TXPower Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TXPower Posted January 20, 2014 Author Share Posted January 20, 2014 Got the exhaust off today, that was fun...................... Got both shifters undone, the T case shifter, it sucked to get out too.............. Tomorrow I'll unbolt the tranny from the engine, take out the cross members, strap the tranny/transfer case to my jack and hope for the best. When I get this engine/tranny out, I'm gonna put this rig on my trailer and take it to the car wash and spend about $50 bucks in quarters on engine degreaser and high pressure soap. Caked with oil and grease from an old oil leak. I figure I'll get the engine compartment, undercarriage, and all the front end and suspension stuff cleaned up while the engine bay is empty. Maybe paint or Linex some stuff. TXPower Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TXPower Posted January 21, 2014 Author Share Posted January 21, 2014 Got the tranny/transfer case out today................. did it by myself...................... I'm beat. Whoever the engineer was that decided to put bolts holding the tranny to the engine block from both directions, especially the one below the starter...........I'm not impressed. Will pull the engine next weekend hopefully. TXPower Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 Hang in there Bud! Sounds like you are making good progress... It took me most of a week to replace a clutch by myself, but I did clean/replace other things as well. It is a lot of work and back and forth as you noted, just do one step at a time and it'll be done soon. Slow and steady, no mistakes... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TXPower Posted January 21, 2014 Author Share Posted January 21, 2014 As I lay under my rig yesterday I got to thinking how some of what I've done or will be doing may be a little easier if I had pulled the front differential out. Seems there'd be more maneuverability with it out of the way. It looked pretty straight forward to take out but I'm not sure. Anyone have opinions on this? Thanks, TXPower Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 I've never dropped the trans to remove the engine on AT or MT pathys. If you are replacing the trans anyway then that makes sense but i always just pull the torsion bars, unbolt the cv joints from the front diff, and drop the front diff. Then u have all the room in the world to pull the engine forward and out. Trans can stay in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 X2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 (edited) TXPower, my two cents.... There are plenty of decent running vehihcles on craiglsit in dallas for sale that will be running and inspected and in much better condition. IMHO It would cost way less to get one that way then hunt down trannys and wiring harmnesses and inteiror parts - and who knows what else from sitting up. Sell what you have or keep it for parts, and find a nicer one then start the build on that one. BTW, where are you at you said south dallas? Edited January 21, 2014 by Alkorahil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 Replacing injector harness wiring is really easy and if you plan to vg33 swap you need to tear the engine down to that point anyways, its really not a lot of work as long as that is the only issue. Just depends if you like a project or want a turn key. But if you buy a turn key then you probably wont get a vg33 pathy! Lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TXPower Posted January 22, 2014 Author Share Posted January 22, 2014 Alkorahil, thanks for your advice, I do appreciate it. Yeah, I know I can find a "better shape" Pathy but not for what I have in this thing. Meaning, I paid 500 for it in 08, if I sink say, 3500 bucks into it with a vg33e swap, salvaged or rebuilt tranny and put a poor mans lift, wheels and a few of the other common upgrades folks do with these WD21's, I think I accomplish what I'm looking for at a reasonable price. As Nefarious said, "if you like a project....", I do. Oh, and I'm up near McKinney. Nefarious and Kingman, my tranny has mucho grind in first 3 gears and reverse and likely needs bearings. Tranny now was a must, if I'm gonna rebuild this motor or do a swap, having a cashed tranny behind it afterward is no bueno. But for future reference, should I have to pull the motor again (man I hope not), I will try y'all's way. Any chance when I go back in I could get motor and tranny/t case all together stabbed back in via my engine hoist? Probably not but???? Thanks as usual, TXPower Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 (edited) I've never done it myself, but my friend said he has done it before, his truck was a manual trans. It would be super tight though...I don't think it would work with an auto but I could see it fitting with the manual, which is quite a lot smaller in physical size than the auto. Don't quote me on this though! I would probably just do them separately if it were me, but thats just cause i would rather not deal with all that weight together added with the tight fit it would be. Less frustration to do it the right way, You might get lucky though! Eye it up, see what you think. Edited January 23, 2014 by Nefarious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Oh, and I'm up near McKinney. me too!! sweet! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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