Kyle94 Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 Cv shaft finally gave in... Was out messing around in the sand it blew up while spinning around in a circle. So my question. Could the cvs being worn out cause a clunk on bumps? I had this clunk before it blew up. And it's still there. But I'm not sure if that's it. I also get a metal hitting metal sound when I hit the brake. I know I have some play in either the inner tierod end on the passenger side is screwed up. Or the steering rack. 72$ for a new shaft. And both of them are gonna need done... One at a time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvdloc Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 Could be your lower compression arm? Mine use to clunk when I braked, replaced bushings no issues since, and yes I did brake a cv shaft before hand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted November 8, 2013 Author Share Posted November 8, 2013 Compression rod? I don't think r50s have compression rods.... Lower control arm bushings maybe? Yeah, it when clank clank clank and then NOTHING and then 2wd. Lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 In my experience with failed CV's (both on separate cars) they would only make that "clunk" sound when putting them at extreme angles. I would hear/feel the clunk mostly on tight turns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvdloc Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 Hmm yes the unibody r50's lol my bad. I would go with what devonianwalk says, extreme angles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted November 8, 2013 Author Share Posted November 8, 2013 Well, i get the clunk while driving in 2wd, just down the road... cv's not engaged. and when i hit the brakes i get one solid metal on metal THUD or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 (edited) Got a cheap camera? I'd zip tie one on the under carriage and drive up and down a well lit street. Take it inside and watch for bad parts? *edit .. stupid autocorrect. Edited November 8, 2013 by devonianwalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 Well, i get the clunk while driving in 2wd, just down the road... cv's not engaged. and when i hit the brakes i get one solid metal on metal THUD or something. My old clunk just reared it's ugly head yesterday. Just as bad if not worse than before. Grrrrrrrrrr. Need to figure it out. Keep me posted and you troubleshoot. -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixinto Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 Got a cheap camera? I'd zip tie one on the under carriage and drive up and down a well lit street. Take it inside and watch for bad parts? *edit .. stupid autocorrect. Heck while he is at it tape a cheap LED flashlight or "zip tie it" hehe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 I like the way you think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 First thing first is I would replace your parts you KNOW you already said you need. You say in the first post you have a known steering issue, I would address that and your bad cv now, making sure all other components bench test (well floor test) and are lubed tightened properly. While the wheels are off make sure brake components are visually and physically in good condition and installed correctly (You can't imagine the number of brake noises and performance issues I see due to an improper/rushed self brake job like loose calipers/frozen-unlubed slides/twisted flex hoses/etc. Everyone makes mistakes, it's human nature ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted November 9, 2013 Author Share Posted November 9, 2013 That's the Thibg. I've removed the wheels many times. And a while back I figured out I had a loose caliper bracket bolt. I tightned it up as soon as I noticed. But I can't tell if or what it would have messed up. I've got a hook up on cvs. So I can get both fairly cheapy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted November 10, 2013 Author Share Posted November 10, 2013 Got and installed a 100% new Cv shaft. Took me about and hour and I went into it knowing very little about what I was doing. Was easier than a wd21 since no upper ball joint to mess with. But the abs sensor is a biotch. Now just the otherside and fix the brake click. Which I'm thinking is brake caliper or stuck/bent slide bolts from having a loose caliper bracket bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted November 11, 2013 Author Share Posted November 11, 2013 Huh, well I went out messing around in logging roads and now when I stomp on the brakes my truck pulls hard right and the right side wheel feels like it kicks up. So I'm Thinking the drivers side caliper isn't moving freely like it should and isn't stopping right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 Sounds like a hanging caliper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted November 11, 2013 Author Share Posted November 11, 2013 So a hanging caliper could make the passenger side one grab harder? Or harder than the other side atkeast? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 If its not releasing completely it possibly sticking shut. Also possible that your drivers side is barely working. Sent from my Moto X! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share Posted November 25, 2013 Turns out it's because my spare is not fullsize and actually makes the truck lean..... -_- So no brake issues now, but it still clunks. new cv shaft and all, steering rack biushings are getting done soon, but im hoping the rack itself isn't shot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewp29 Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 A note on the steering rack. I just purchased one from Dearborn/Detroit Axle off eBay to replace mine. I get a click every once in awhile while driving, but mostly the click is present when parked with the vehicle off. I can turn the steering wheel and get a nasty click when turning to the right every time. I thought it may be inner tie rod, but the truck is wandering all over the place when at highway speeds and road is bumpy. There is a YouTube video of a guy with a Mazda 6 that replaces his inner tie rod due to wandering and clicking, and the issue was still there until he replaced the rack. So I bit the bullet and purchased a rebuilt rack. The rack is sitting in my garage. Overall it feels VERY solid, so I would not hesitate buying one from the same place. They were cheaper than anywhere else I looked. I'll post an update once I git 'er done and let you know how it feels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 Cv shaft finally gave in... Was out messing around in the sand it blew up while spinning around in a circle. DO NOT DO DOUGHNUTS IN 4WD. A friend ripped up his front diff gears in his Cherokee doing exactly that last weekend at Ocotillo Wells (desert). In 4WD, your front tires are trying to rotate at the same speed as your rear. In a doughnut, your rear is moving/trying to move faster than your front tires. You are really lucky if all you damaged was a cheap CV axle. Don't forget to thank that axle for failing before your diff gears shattered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 Turns out it's because my spare is not fullsize and actually makes the truck lean..... If you were closer... I have my stock spare on Craigslist. No bites...I'd give it away to get it out of my garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share Posted November 25, 2013 lol no, i wasn't doing a circle, i was literally just turning around, but it was up hill sort of turn around, so i gave it gas because it wasn't move and then Clunk clunk clunk, nothing and 2wd. XD 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 DO NOT DO DOUGHNUTS IN 4WD. A friend ripped up his front diff gears in his Cherokee doing exactly that last weekend at Ocotillo Wells (desert). In 4WD, your front tires are trying to rotate at the same speed as your rear. In a doughnut, your rear is moving/trying to move faster than your front tires. You are really lucky if all you damaged was a cheap CV axle. Don't forget to thank that axle for failing before your diff gears shattered. X2... snow or ice is one thing as everything is slipping wiith no traction, sand or gravel not so much. Unless you're a baller with so much WHP traction isn't an issue if you don't want it to be. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 Another thing to do. Is if you are in 4 Low, drop down to First gear. Dont stay in Drive with or even without OD on. 1st or 2nd should be plenty. Again, unless your in something really slick like snow, mud. To much skinny pedal breaks stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted November 26, 2013 Author Share Posted November 26, 2013 I've put my truck through much more abuse than spinning around in a circle with some throttle... But yeah. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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