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well it finally popped... :(


Kyle94
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Cv shaft finally gave in... Was out messing around in the sand it blew up while spinning around in a circle.

 

So my question. Could the cvs being worn out cause a clunk on bumps? I had this clunk before it blew up. And it's still there. But I'm not sure if that's it. I also get a metal hitting metal sound when I hit the brake. I know I have some play in either the inner tierod end on the passenger side is screwed up. Or the steering rack.

 

72$ for a new shaft. And both of them are gonna need done... One at a time!

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Compression rod? I don't think r50s have compression rods.... Lower control arm bushings maybe?

 

Yeah, it when clank clank clank and then NOTHING and then 2wd. Lol.

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Well, i get the clunk while driving in 2wd, just down the road... cv's not engaged. and when i hit the brakes i get one solid metal on metal THUD or something.

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Got a cheap camera? I'd zip tie one on the under carriage and drive up and down a well lit street. Take it inside and watch for bad parts?

 

*edit .. stupid autocorrect.

Edited by devonianwalk
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Well, i get the clunk while driving in 2wd, just down the road... cv's not engaged. and when i hit the brakes i get one solid metal on metal THUD or something.

My old clunk just reared it's ugly head yesterday. Just as bad if not worse than before. Grrrrrrrrrr. Need to figure it out. Keep me posted and you troubleshoot.

 

-Kyle

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Got a cheap camera? I'd zip tie one on the under carriage and drive up and down a well lit street. Take it inside and watch for bad parts?

 

*edit .. stupid autocorrect.

Heck while he is at it tape a cheap LED flashlight or "zip tie it" hehe

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First thing first is I would replace your parts you KNOW you already said you need. You say in the first post you have a known steering issue, I would address that and your bad cv now, making sure all other components bench test (well floor test) and are lubed tightened properly. While the wheels are off make sure brake components are visually and physically in good condition and installed correctly (You can't imagine the number of brake noises and performance issues I see due to an improper/rushed self brake job like loose calipers/frozen-unlubed slides/twisted flex hoses/etc. Everyone makes mistakes, it's human nature :aok: )

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That's the Thibg. I've removed the wheels many times. And a while back I figured out I had a loose caliper bracket bolt. I tightned it up as soon as I noticed. But I can't tell if or what it would have messed up.

 

I've got a hook up on cvs. So I can get both fairly cheapy.

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Got and installed a 100% new Cv shaft. Took me about and hour and I went into it knowing very little about what I was doing. Was easier than a wd21 since no upper ball joint to mess with. But the abs sensor is a biotch.

 

Now just the otherside and fix the brake click. Which I'm thinking is brake caliper or stuck/bent slide bolts from having a loose caliper bracket bolt.

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Huh, well I went out messing around in logging roads and now when I stomp on the brakes my truck pulls hard right and the right side wheel feels like it kicks up. So I'm Thinking the drivers side caliper isn't moving freely like it should and isn't stopping right.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Turns out it's because my spare is not fullsize and actually makes the truck lean..... -_-

 

So no brake issues now, but it still clunks. new cv shaft and all, steering rack biushings are getting done soon, but im hoping the rack itself isn't shot

 

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A note on the steering rack. I just purchased one from Dearborn/Detroit Axle off eBay to replace mine. I get a click every once in awhile while driving, but mostly the click is present when parked with the vehicle off. I can turn the steering wheel and get a nasty click when turning to the right every time.

 

I thought it may be inner tie rod, but the truck is wandering all over the place when at highway speeds and road is bumpy. There is a YouTube video of a guy with a Mazda 6 that replaces his inner tie rod due to wandering and clicking, and the issue was still there until he replaced the rack. So I bit the bullet and purchased a rebuilt rack.

 

The rack is sitting in my garage. Overall it feels VERY solid, so I would not hesitate buying one from the same place. They were cheaper than anywhere else I looked. I'll post an update once I git 'er done and let you know how it feels.

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Cv shaft finally gave in... Was out messing around in the sand it blew up while spinning around in a circle.

DO NOT DO DOUGHNUTS IN 4WD.

A friend ripped up his front diff gears in his Cherokee doing exactly that last weekend at Ocotillo Wells (desert).

 

In 4WD, your front tires are trying to rotate at the same speed as your rear. In a doughnut, your rear is moving/trying to move faster than your front tires. You are really lucky if all you damaged was a cheap CV axle. Don't forget to thank that axle for failing before your diff gears shattered.

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lol no, i wasn't doing a circle, i was literally just turning around, but it was up hill sort of turn around, so i gave it gas because it wasn't move and then Clunk clunk clunk, nothing and 2wd. XD

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DO NOT DO DOUGHNUTS IN 4WD.

A friend ripped up his front diff gears in his Cherokee doing exactly that last weekend at Ocotillo Wells (desert).

 

In 4WD, your front tires are trying to rotate at the same speed as your rear. In a doughnut, your rear is moving/trying to move faster than your front tires. You are really lucky if all you damaged was a cheap CV axle. Don't forget to thank that axle for failing before your diff gears shattered.

X2... snow or ice is one thing as everything is slipping wiith no traction, sand or gravel not so much. Unless you're a baller with so much WHP traction isn't an issue if you don't want it to be. :lol:

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Another thing to do. Is if you are in 4 Low, drop down to First gear. Dont stay in Drive with or even without OD on. 1st or 2nd should be plenty. Again, unless your in something really slick like snow, mud. To much skinny pedal breaks stuff.

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