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EGR Removal (TD27 engine) need help


teixeira
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Need your help on completely remove my EGR system, EGR valve, pipe, butterfly housing, etc.

Been searching for this but can't find any write up on how to do it.

 

Here it is:

pepd.jpg

 

Seen the bolts and with tools I have theu are reachable from the top or engine bay, no biggy...

Taking the valve off I need the blanking plate, gasket paper to make a gasket and sealant.

 

Question: the blanking plate as to be from steel or can it be iron? I have iron laying around and could make one...

 

Here is some measures that I found on the web:

EGRblank.jpg

 

Everywhere I read I'll need 2 blanking plates, why? for the pipe?

 

Well here is another thing, the pipe starts on the EGR and the other end is different:

y8p2.jpg

 

How do I blank this on the manifold? an equal blank as before won't work...

 

Then we have the vacuum tubes that go from the EGR to these:

5zmd.jpg

 

Easy to take out. From here to the back of the alternator, the vacuum pump:

esnf.jpg

 

What should I do to these vacuum tubes? Have to be careful not to affect the breaks as they use the same vacuum pump (larger tube)...

 

And also go to the air filter box:

mtru.jpg

 

And then the butterfly housing next...

 

Any help is welcome, thanks everyone. :)

Edited by teixeira
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That tube that goes from behind the fire wall to the manifold only needs the one end blocking off with a thin blanking plate such as you drew, then bolt it all back together, it is only to cut off the gas return.

The hoses to the valves as shown in the pic near the battery are blocked off like was done in this pic.

20130713_105826_zps65f3b2b1.jpg

 

As for the wee hose from the air box, I believe this needs to stay as it has something to do with a valve that senses the vacuum for the brake light on the dash. Mine was connected in a different place and left off when the engine swap was done, it took ages to find the bugger to plug back in to stop the handbrake warning light to go off.

 

Hope this helps a little.

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Sure helps, thanks Kiwipete. :aok:

 

But here is the thing, I want to take out everything that isn't needed that includes that tube behind the manifold. I really don't want to bolt it back together....

How did you do it? left it there?

 

As for the hoses, I should leave the one to the air box, I can see how you did that, nice pic. :aok:

And the other hoses, what did you do? I can see that you took them out...

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Thats my picture with the measurements :aok:

Its tricky to undo the bolts under the exhaust manifold, a socket on a swivel (universal) and the correct length extensions is how I got mine.

The inlet manifold end is much easier. Then the pipe can be removed, although its hard to get out. Lots of wiggling will get it.

If you have to remove the gearbox at all, then to remove pipe would be much easier.

The blanking plate size is the same for inlet manifold and exhaust manifold. I used alloy for inlet, and steel for exhaust.

I also made a fitting and used exhaust blank to mount an exhaust temp probe. Not the ideal location, but is easy way to mount probe.

Trace vacuum piping back from the valve on inlet manifold end of EGR pipe, and remove it.

I also removed butterfly from inside throttle body, and removed vacuum piping from this also.

Picture is from underneath, looking up at exhaust manifold. You can see my blanking plate with temp probe installed.

Blurry bit to the right of pic is gearbox bellhousing, and to the left is the body (footwell). Removal would probably be easier if a bodylift was installed.

Its also a good idea to remove inlet manifold and clean out all accumulation of gunk buildup.

I used steamcleaner, but have had suggested to use ovencleaner

SDC14063.jpg

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Also to help,


Question: the blanking plate as to be from steel or can it be iron? I have iron laying around and could make one...

Steel/iron same thing?

 

Everywhere I read I'll need 2 blanking plates, why? for the pipe?

Yes two blanking plates- one for each manifold where pipe bolts on.

Well here is another thing, the pipe starts on the EGR and the other end is different:

How do I blank this on the manifold? an equal blank as before won't work...

Black circle shows where pipe is welded to the cast fitting that bolts to underside of manifold.

Look from underneath to see. (is well hidden under there!) Same size blank plate is used here.

y8p2.jpg

 

 

 

What should I do to these vacuum tubes? Have to be careful not to affect the breaks as they use the same vacuum pump (larger tube)...

Where vacuum tube is removed be sure to block off pipe (of vacuum source) so not vacuum leak is caused

 

 

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Thanks, Slide.

 

So that's your measure pic, :lol:

 

Iron and steel is the same thing, my English at the time was.... :blush: I meant alloy (like you said).

I'm going to try and do some blanking plates, now I get why 2 are needed. :aok:

Will look under and find those bolts to take the pipe off, doesn't look that easy.... I really don't want to remove the gearbox, let's see how that turns out.

 

How did you block off the vacuum pipes?

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Damn, I tried to get to bolts on the exhaust manifold, like you said it really is a tricky place and the bolts look really rusty.

I don't have the right length to get there, I might have to go shopping. :unsure:

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Spray them down real well with PB Blaster if you haven't already. It'll make things a whole lot easier especially since its a hard to reach area and torque won't necessarily be at a premium.

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WD40 is alright but doesn't work any where near as well. PB chemically eats rust and creeps everywhere to break it down. If you can find a can, give it a try and you'll never go back. Doesn't smell as good unfortunately.

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