Kyle94 Posted October 27, 2013 Author Share Posted October 27, 2013 TPS set, and idle re-learned... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted October 27, 2013 Share Posted October 27, 2013 If TPS is good, and timing is set the only thing left to check is the IACV and it sits on the throttle body is my understanding, so you shouldn't have to remove the intake. But I've never done it before. But that's what I'd do next in your shoes. -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheAustinHenry Posted October 27, 2013 Share Posted October 27, 2013 As far as 3 goes, that sounds suspension/brake related. As easy as a loose caliper bolt or sticky caliper. If not ball joints. only because you mentioned going over bumps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 I 'fixed' my RMS drip with some additive from Autozone. So far, so good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted October 29, 2013 Author Share Posted October 29, 2013 what kind of additive?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 (edited) probably some kind of injector or fuel system cleaner. i tried it for a few tanks, didn't really see any results. Then again, my car was running fine. -Kyle Edited October 29, 2013 by ferrariowner123 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted October 29, 2013 Author Share Posted October 29, 2013 Lol. For the oil? I'm taking it to Nissan in a few months for the running thing if I havwnt figured it out by then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 Is your intake tube good to go? No cracks past the MAF? They tend to crack near the TB. Coolant temp sensor good to go? IIRC there are 2, one may be reporting a colder temp causing it to want to idle faster. ^^^ IAT temp sensor good to go? ^^^ Same thing. IAC valve, its under the TB. No need to remove the intake. Just PITA to kinda get to. Just a few off top of my head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 what kind of additive?? I think it was this stuff. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Bar-s-Rear-main-seal-repair/_/N-260b?itemIdentifier=426114_0_0_ I posted it before, but can't find my old post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 I just bought some bars rear main and crank shaft seal stuff. We will see how it goes. Sometimes the idle will be lower if I start it warm. But it's like something kicks in and it the idle pick back up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 I just poured a bottle of Bars to stop a cold water leak in my Heep. It really worked! I placed some cardboard in front of the radiator so to run the engine temp up to 240-250f. After two or three restarts the crack in the iron block sealed. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 Is the rear main as easy to fix as a Jeep? Or do we have to drop the trans? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 We have to drop it or at least pull it back... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixinto Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 I've read either the tb or the idle air control valve have went bad. But idk. Still searching For a timing light. Harbor freight doesn't sell them. And oreilly doesn't rent. Trying to find one from a friend to borrow. Harbor freight has em, well at least around here, i bought one for 20 dollars when i had high idle issues after cleaning my TB also. And to get any real adjustment out of moving the dizzy u need to unplug the TPS. Also if you cleaned everything all shiney and happy. I hate to point out the obvious. But be sure your your high idle cam is working properly. Look in the FMS to see what its supposed to do. After that adjust the IACV screw at the rear driver side of the intake. "recommend a nubby phillips head screw driver". My TB looked like it hasn't been cleaned in years so i cleaned it while i was doing the valve cover gaskets. then i found out my cold idle cam or "thermo element" was jacked up and stuck at a higher idle than it should have been. Instead of dropping 150 dollars on it i freakin backed the screw out all the way till the little arm that pushes out no longer touched the "bent" bracket that adjust your idle on start up. that way its always the lowest idle it can be. when u first start it on cold mornings it will putt putt for a couple of seconds then the ecu kicks in and it goes upto 1200 or so. I was 750 on idle before the cleaning and after i was 1200 to 1500. After the thermo element thing was resolved i was able to adjust the screw on the idle air control valve to get the idle resolved. got it down to 725 at the moment thats where i prefer it. normal for manual shift is 750 plus or minus 50 so i just went on the low side. PS after you do the adjustment, if it doesnt run exactly right give it a week or so of just driving it, and it should calm down a little. Also check that small little crappy hose that plugs into the bottom of you throttle body inlet. very hard to miss but kindof easy to knock off. I hope my endless blather helped u out. but i have been where you are. Best wishes Patrick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixinto Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 Don't recall, but did you replace the fuel filter? It's a quick $5 job....gas will leak everywhere...even if you follow the directions in the manual... ^ amen to that, dont be directly under it and i highly recommend safety glasses or a scuba mask hehe. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixinto Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 (edited) The IAC is under the TB, IIRC. Sent from my Moto X! IACV on a 96 is under the upper plenum in the rear on the driver side. the little black box that has 3 tubes going to it is under the throttle body and ya, its a pain unless u take some stuff off, but the single tube running out of one side that goes to the underside of the throttle body is what popped off during mine, and i was getting the same exact things as the poor fella workin on his. " Also my thero element for the fast idle cam was bad" Edited October 30, 2013 by fixinto Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 iacv turned all the way down now, idles 900-1000 rpms. it fluctuates now. more so than before. almost like the same pulse i get when accelerating. the little round disc filter thingy clicks now. and it idles about 650 in drive. something else is the problemo.... on to look for the fast idle cam BS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixinto Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 iacv turned all the way down now, idles 900-1000 rpms. it fluctuates now. more so than before. almost like the same pulse i get when accelerating. the little round disc filter thingy clicks now. and it idles about 650 in drive. something else is the problemo.... on to look for the fast idle cam BS. If you were able to adjust it down that far i would say the fast idle cam is not stuck on the high setting, "maybe it is" but that seems ok. the searching idle may just be the ecu having to adjust to the changes in air flow do to the throttle body cleaning and iacv adjustment i would give it a week and see what happens unless its throwing nasty CEL's at ya. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted October 31, 2013 Author Share Posted October 31, 2013 No cel. Idle is about 750 as of today. And the drive idle is a little less. Over all I'm much happier now to just fix the slight up and down in the idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixinto Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 No cel. Idle is about 750 as of today. And the drive idle is a little less. Over all I'm much happier now to just fix the slight up and down in the idle. Sweet, happy its getting lined out for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted December 9, 2013 Author Share Posted December 9, 2013 Still having the fluctuating up and down ilde when accelerating. And the more i noticed it and think about it, the more it pisses me off. I plan to swap it to a 5spd shortly and with the way the engine dips when gaining speed, i could imagine what that will feel like when hooked directly to a 5spd. I have a tested good alternator sitting waiting to be installed. (mine's bearing are shot and causing a whine) but i'm not sure if that will fix it. Hopefully this next weekend. Timing could possibly not be set right? I'm not the best at figuring out the timing. At tax time ill end up just taking it to nissan for them to run diagnostics, if the alternator doesn't change anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted December 9, 2013 Share Posted December 9, 2013 Does the fluctuation happen when you use cruise control? You've checked for air intake leaks and ensured the air filter is sealing properly, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted December 9, 2013 Author Share Posted December 9, 2013 No. It happens most noticeably when I'm accelerating and not using cruise. But it still does it when using cruise on the highway and the torque converter isn't locked. That's when I can really feel it is when the tc isn't locked. I've had the air box off a few times. Everything seems fine. Can't find any leaks, not even using spray. Nothing happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted December 10, 2013 Author Share Posted December 10, 2013 What's really odd is it seems somedays, i can start it up and run it for a while and it doesn't do it, or does it hardly at all. or it's just me. But either way it's taunting me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixinto Posted December 18, 2013 Share Posted December 18, 2013 do you have a timing light? 3rd stripe on balancer is 15 degrees btc. If it dont do it when you first start it up, Like before the truck is upto temp. that just says it has to do with the sensors and ecu or possibly timing. The ecu dont start reading the sensors till its upto temp. until then its in open loop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now