linewar Posted September 25, 2013 Share Posted September 25, 2013 Any update on this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixinto Posted October 2, 2013 Share Posted October 2, 2013 (edited) Geez, man. If you come up with any ideas as to what caused such a random catastrophic failure, I'd love to hear it. I have never heard of a head gasket blowing while the vehicle sits in a garage. (I know that's not what happened, but it still seems like if that had happened while driving , you would have noticed it. Maybe an irresponsible party started it and revved it while it was parked and you were not looking, and blew the gasket?) I have to agree completely, when he explained it, i was scratching my head too. First time i even heard of a gasket just giving up AFTER your parked it. Thanks for the info though if nothing else its outside the norm and very interesting. OH an after thought, dont forget to soak your "rocker follower" or lifters in oil before you put them in. And i would probably use new head bolts, just as a precaution "really really wouldn't want one to um....ya im not going to say it" and if you use oil on the threads i believe it changes the torque specifications. GL with getting her up and running, I hate to see when someone puts a lot of time into a project and then in return the project craps all over your bath towel when your not lookin. =( Edited October 2, 2013 by fixinto Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted October 2, 2013 Share Posted October 2, 2013 You have to put oil on the head bolts when they're being installed and even better if you run a tap down the threads to get all the debris out, which there's usually quite a bit. You want the least resistance to get tge truest torque reading. VG33 head bolts are torque to yield so its best to replace them. The torque specifications for the VG33 is also asinine! Tried and true way is to just torque them like a VG30. 22, 43, 47 ft/lbs following the pattern. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCgabel Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 I have to agree completely, when he explained it, i was scratching my head too. First time i even heard of a gasket just giving up AFTER your parked it. Thanks for the info though if nothing else its outside the norm and very interesting. OH an after thought, dont forget to soak your "rocker follower" or lifters in oil before you put them in. And i would probably use new head bolts, just as a precaution "really really wouldn't want one to um....ya im not going to say it" and if you use oil on the threads i believe it changes the torque specifications. GL with getting her up and running, I hate to see when someone puts a lot of time into a project and then in return the project craps all over your bath towel when your not lookin. =( I've got new head bolts. i wasnt gunna put the old ones back in because when they are installed in the factory the are tightened to the max shear, so when taking them out and putting them back in you will never get them as tight as rec torque because the bolts will be to weak and snap. Thanks im praying it all pans out. ill be finding out soon though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCgabel Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 You have to put oil on the head bolts when they're being installed and even better if you run a tap down the threads to get all the debris out, which there's usually quite a bit. You want the least resistance to get tge truest torque reading. VG33 head bolts are torque to yield so its best to replace them. The torque specifications for the VG33 is also asinine! Tried and true way is to just torque them like a VG30. 22, 43, 47 ft/lbs following the pattern. Torque to yield. thats what i meant not (shear) shear would be bad. Thanks for the torque specs! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCgabel Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 (edited) So an update, I got all my seals and gaskets in the mail finally yesterday so im back at it. All the head bolts are out but the two inner top ones on the passenger side which r caught under the rocker arm rail, they r lose but i cant take them out without remove the rod rail which i dont really want to do just yet. I am trying to take the valve head off the block but its on there nice and firm. Anyone know if i should be tapping it with a sand shot to work it off or is there more because im able to lift the front of the head up but the back seems to be on there pretty good. should i just keep working it out or is there more? the two bolts r not holding it on because they r lose and i can move them up and down when im trying to take the valve head off. On another thought whats better steel or graphite head gaskets. ive heard good and bad about both cant make up my mind. The kit came with graphite. Edited October 8, 2013 by DCgabel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCgabel Posted October 25, 2013 Author Share Posted October 25, 2013 Heads are all off and everything is cleaned up nicely. As for putting the new gasket on should i be doing more than cleaning the surface and putting the new HG on or should i be spraying on copper gasket spray on the new gasket before installing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 This thread needs more pics. How many miles when the gasket gave up the ghost? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixinto Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 You have probably moved on since your last post, but i will comment anyway. You probably dont need the copper sticky gasket stuff, the dowel pins (spelling ? ) should hold them in place while you put the heads on. The FSM says to pull the head with the exhaust manifold on it. to put it back in, if you dont have help or a hoist, u can get a couple of cheap ratcheting straps and cut a 2x4 to 56 inches and put it on the inner part of each fender with the ratcheting strap around the head so you can slowly lower it down and position it. worked pretty well for me being i was working alone and didnt want to muck up the gasket. sometimes it just pays to have an extra set of hands there =( Patrick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 (edited) Heads are all off and everything is cleaned up nicely. As for putting the new gasket on should i be doing more than cleaning the surface and putting the new HG on or should i be spraying on copper gasket spray on the new gasket before installing. I used this on my wife's Prelude. I felt that it was a good sealant. It is pretty tacky so, make sure you surfaces are clean and free of lint. I actually did a practice spray on the old gasket to see what I was dealing with. I suggest you do the same? *edit .. Just noticed that I am a few days late for the advice. How's it working for out? Edited November 2, 2013 by devonianwalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCgabel Posted November 6, 2013 Author Share Posted November 6, 2013 So far so good. so Ive gone a little deeper and decided to redo all the valves too figured why not since I'm here anyways. And just a thought on that. should i be replacing the rocker arm rail bolts? Just curious, would be hating myself if they needed to be replaced after doing all this horse @!*%ack to the engine. Thanks for all the help! Ill have more pictures up tonight on my progress time/motivation permitting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCgabel Posted November 7, 2013 Author Share Posted November 7, 2013 (edited) A little update. So just a heads up to those doing this same job. Do your best not to miss this bolt. Its on the passenger side head around the back. Its pretty difficult to see. Another if you look at the first page of this forum you'll see the driver side head of my engine. When i took the valve cover off my passenger side i hummed and hawed as to whether i should just take it all apart, clean and replace because it was much dirtier than my driver side. So, i decided to go ahead and take it all apart and clean it since my gasket kit came with new valve stem seals anyway. Edited November 7, 2013 by DCgabel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 (edited) Might as well throw in some 3.0 cams while your in there. Get a few extra ponies. Oh, a pic of the chamber side would be awesome btw. Edited November 7, 2013 by Rebelord Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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