TahoeRunner Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 Hey everyone, Its been a while. Been real busy with my 2 young boys, changing jobs, fighting winter plagues, etc etc... I've been looking around on the forum the past few days and catching up and so a few days was the anniversary of when I picked up my 95 Pathy a year ago. Just smogged him again and reregistered, and when I looked at the smog ticket, I've only put 3800 miles on him since I bought him... He just sits in our garage and comes out to play at least every other weekend... poor fellow! He's going to get some excersize this summer though as we've planned out our camping calendar and we plan to load him up and head out a few hours from home a few times to go exploring. Anyways, I've gotten close to doing the fluids and fixing a few small things, but never got around to it. In two weeks i've got an all day date with Sarge to finally give him the attention he needs! I've been reading all the fluid threads and such and getting ready to pick it all up... I still have a few question though I wanted to get your input on before I buy stuff. I've read up on the manual transmission specifics all the capacities, etc and so here is my plan... Manual Transmission = 4 qts of Penzoil Syncromesh and 1 Qt of lucas oil stabilizer Front and Rear Diffs = Lucas 80w-90 (non-syn) w/ LSD Transfer Case = Either Syncromesh or the Lucas for the diffs (any suggestions) Good ole fashioned Oil change with Castrol High Mileage Part Synthetic and new Napa Filter So any true benefit with going with the Synthetic upgrades on any of this. I'm trying to be somewhat budget concious and with only getting 3k miles a year or less, not sure if its worth the extra money. So I've read that the Syncromesh works well and improves the shiftability in the manuals (and its reasonably priced) but any other manual trans fluid you guys like? My tranny is a little notchy going into second, especially when cold. Anything that smoothes that out i'm open to. Seems like some of you are running the Lucas Stabilizer and that works well... As far as the gear oil or ATF in the transfer case, any one thing better than the other? I like that the gear oil is thicker, and with using the Pathy on winter trips over the sierras a few times, I've had to drive in 4x4 at 40mph or so for extended periods... would gear oil be better for that? I'm also going to finally replace the exhaust hangers, and fix the rear hatch sensor issue that triggers the dash and overhead lights. Other than that though he's running good and I can't complain really. I'm open to input on any of this. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 Gear oil was called for in the older pathfinders (2 doors) and the newer ones say ATF for the transfer case. I have no idea why, but people on here have used both with no issue. I use ATF in mine and have 0 issues. For motor oil I think that unless you are leaking or losing oil somehow you should stick with either conventional or synthetic. With how little mileage yours sees I would just use castrol GTX (if you want to stick with castrol). For the manual transmission you want to make sure it is GL-4 only, not a GL-5 "but is compatible with GL-4" The rear hatch sensor is an easy fix. A couple of washers under the striker for the latch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TahoeRunner Posted March 12, 2013 Author Share Posted March 12, 2013 yeah just to clarify, I'm not considering going full synthetic on the motor oil, just considering it for the diffs, trans & tcase. I'm sticking with half Synthetic for the motor oil just so I don't spring any leaks. I'm changing it at a year even if I don't hit the 3 or 4k mark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 Ok, about the Syncromesh... Pennzoil® Synchromesh Fluid is a synchromesh transmission fluid designed for certain manual transaxles and manual transmissions used by General Motors or Chrysler. No thanks. Redline MT-90 has been proven so I would go with that if you need synthetic. Otherwise, if you can find dino-gl4 don't be shy about using it, especially if you change it in 30,000 miles (or 10 years ). Throw in 1/2 a quart of Lucal Oil Stabilizer to make it 5.1 liters and call it good. The manual states ATF for the transfer case and many people run it without issue. I'd put in gear oil (what is in the tranny) but you could save and use the ATF. I don't put a lot of miles on my Pathy either and I use Castrol synth blend oil with a Bosch filter. Change it every 3,000 miles/year and you'll be fine. I'm sure TownCivilian will show up soon... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismopathy93 Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 I run royal purple in my vgs and the wifes 4.0 in her 2010 pathy we picked up 2.5 mpgs with the 2010 pathy didnt notice much on my truck but I drive it hard every day but I have not sprung any leaks in the truck and it has 222k on the motor! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TahoeRunner Posted March 13, 2013 Author Share Posted March 13, 2013 So I guess the Pennzoil is out. I've seen a few on here recommend it when I was searching through the forums, and its good for yellow metals but not GL4. Advanced Auto Parts doesn't carry Redline on their website from what I can tell, and I was trying to order everything from them since they had 15% off and free shipping. So is the Redline the Best? My local Napa had the Redline 75w90 but I didn't see the MT90 so I'll have to call them in the morning to see how much it is. I see many of you run the Royal Purple, but it seems to be the priciest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 I'm not familiar with the Pennzoil, it might be ok, but I'm steering you to what I know is suitable. My local Napa had the Redline 75w90 That should work fine also, it is the correct weight IIRC. I ran 85w90 in my manual (couldn't find the 75w90) with some of the Lucas which gave me no problems other than stiff shifting in 1st and second when cold (a few miles) B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 Lucas gear oil is garbage. Based on this white paper and Advance Auto's great discount codes, I would use Mobil 1 75W-90 as it resulted in the best score behind Amsoil SVG 75W-90 and the only "failure" of M1 75W-90 was shearing just barely under spec after some use. Maybe buy a fluid pump too to help fill the diffs. For the transfer case, use any synthetic ATF claiming to meet Dexron III specifications. AAP discontinued use of discount codes for most of the ATFs they stock, unfortunately. Valvoline MaxLife should be a good option, it has a beefy additive package compared to many other ATFs; see this table. Castrol HM is nothing special I think, they have mediocre metallic additive packages similar to Valvoline's and is overpriced for what you get IMO. I guess they have more marketing to pay for. See here for a virgin oil analysis of Castrol HM (albeit it's 10W-30 but the additives should be almost identical between the two). You can see a table of several conventional oils' virgin analyses here, but I wouldn't overthink it as any API SN oil will easily be capable of going at least 5k miles in a clean, mechanically sound engine. I would use Mobil Super 5000 5W-30 to save the $5 or whatever the price difference is. NAPA Gold filters are excellent, no need to change that. Amazon has Redline MT90 as well, it might be cheaper than your NAPA. Thought about changing your brake fluid, power steering fluid, coolant, fuel filter, PCV valve? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 Lucas gear oil is garbage. I put in some of the oil stabilizer in the tranny. It might be snake oil, but the way it makes the oil cling makes sense to me in a gear box. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 (edited) Lucas Oil Stabailizer is monograde gear lube without any additives, so all it does is thicken the lube and dilute the additive package. I can't see how things would become "dry" after extended periods of sitting, oil still clings pretty well all on its own... in a diff or manual trans I guess it's okay to use, but I would never use it in an engine. Edited March 13, 2013 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 I would never use it in an engine We are in complete agreement! B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TahoeRunner Posted March 14, 2013 Author Share Posted March 14, 2013 (edited) Thanks Guys, I actually did some looking around yesterday and found the Redline MT90 locally. We have a Summit Racing Warehouse here with a store attached and I found they carry the MT-90 for $14.95. And I'm kind of suprised to hear that on the Lucas Oil products, but I'm no chemical engineer I guess... I'll check out the Mobil1 for the diffs and the ATF for the t-case. AAP doesn't allow me to ship the M1 and we don't have a store in Reno. Is the MT-90 good to run in the t-case also or even the Mobile 1 If I choose not to run the ATF? Seems like the main advantage to the ATF is price? Edited March 14, 2013 by TahoeRunner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 I believe you have Interstate Oil in Sparks. They had everything i did for my tranny-transfer-diff changes and their prices were cheaper than anywhere, Wal-Mart included. http://www.interstateoil.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 You can run MT-90 in the transfer case, it specifies ATF or GL-4 (but you can't mix the two). Redline's gear oils (i.e. normal 75W-90) are great too, perhaps you could use those in the diffs too. Unless you plan on off-roading and have a chance of potential water entry, then I'd suggest using a cheaper conventional gear lube and changing it out more frequently and whenever there was a chance of water entry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TahoeRunner Posted March 14, 2013 Author Share Posted March 14, 2013 (edited) Yeah, I'm not too worried about water entry, most the off roading I do is in the dry desert and its infrequent. Don't plan on taking on any streams. I was kind of thinking of the 75w90 Redline for the diffs and t-case. With the potential in the winter time of making long slogs in 4x4 at moderate speeds I'd like to do the better protection in the t-case. and thanks for the recommend on Interstate Oil. I'll check em out today... Edited March 14, 2013 by TahoeRunner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TahoeRunner Posted March 14, 2013 Author Share Posted March 14, 2013 hey so I called interstate oil just a few minutes ago. They only sell Redline by the case of 12. However the case of 12 is only 127.20 which comes to $10/qt and that's cheap! They sell both the MT-90 and the 75w-90 (which is $4 cheaper for the case). Would it be okay to put the MT-90 or 75w-90 in everything (tranny, t-case & diffs)? A Case would be enough to do it all. The only thing I notice, is that I would have to get the LS additive if I go with the MT-90... It seems weird to do one fluid for everything... thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TahoeRunner Posted March 14, 2013 Author Share Posted March 14, 2013 Well never mind... I just went to Redline's website and answered my own questions. The 75w-90 is a Gl-5 and the MT-90 says specifically to not use in hypoid differentials. Crap... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 hey so I called interstate oil just a few minutes ago. They only sell Redline by the case of 12. That's weird. I figured they would be the same. Is it only Red line they sell by the case? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TahoeRunner Posted March 14, 2013 Author Share Posted March 14, 2013 The location here in sparks they said everything they sell by the case, all though some are 6 to a case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TahoeRunner Posted March 19, 2013 Author Share Posted March 19, 2013 Okay so I've been researching and mulling it over. I'm going to spend the $$ on the redline MT90 for the tranny, just because with it probably not being over-filled and a little bit notchy in the gear changes (no wining or anything though) I figure thats worth it. However, with as few of miles as I plan on driving it, I'm just going to do the Valvoline HP 80-90 gear oil thats only $6/qt and if I have to change it in 5 years after 10k miles, I'm not too concerned. One more question though... So it looks like you can use the same gear oil in the tranny and transfer case, but can you use the Gl-5 oil? Are their soft metals in the tcase that would keep me from using the 80w-90 gear oil for the diffs, or do you have to use GL4? If you have to use Gl4 I'll probably just go with the ATF in the T-case and go with the Maxlife ATF. But with the fractions of a quart everything requires, I can save my self a quart of fluid for the TCase if I use the same stuff for the diffs and tcase. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted March 19, 2013 Share Posted March 19, 2013 The FSM only specifies GL-4, so I would not chance using GL-5 in the transfer case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 19, 2013 Share Posted March 19, 2013 I could have sworn the GL-4 restrictions was only for the tranny and I know GL-5 is fine for the diffs (my 1995 FSM only shows the ATF. I need to find my Chiltons or Hayes). No brass syncros being the difference is my guess. This I know for a fact: ATF will work for the transfer case, Dextron3 rated. 75w-90 GL-4 ONLY for the tranny, 5.1 liters (Redline MT90 included) Anyone have it in print that GL-5 is ok in the transfer case? (I really do think so) B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted March 19, 2013 Share Posted March 19, 2013 Even R50s through 2004 only specify GL-4 or ATF for the transfer case. Doesn't GL-4 have more anti-wear additives anyway? I don't remember right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TahoeRunner Posted March 19, 2013 Author Share Posted March 19, 2013 Thanks Precise1. Yeah I'm specifically asking for the tcase. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 19, 2013 Share Posted March 19, 2013 Understood. Found them! Chiltons: Transfer case GL-4 SAE 75w-90 through 1990 and ATF Dextron 1990 on up. Haynes: Transfer case GL-5 through 1990 and ATF Dextron II 1990 on up. If you don't have a pre 1991, use ATF. I'm using Dextron3/Mercon in my 1995. If you want to gamble with gear oil, only use GL-4. (I've never heard anyone with issues, transfer cases seem quite reliable) Even R50s through 2004 only specify GL-4 or ATF for the transfer case. Doesn't GL-4 have more anti-wear additives anyway? I don't remember right now. You know oils better than I do. That is the problem I'm having too... Looks like you are right with the specs. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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