tacoman Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Hi: My engine rear oil seal is leaking and probably should be replaced (95 Path). I had the transmission low oil self destruct problem a few years ago and I replaced the tranny, clutch and this engine oil seal (Nissan Part). I am not too happy with the prospect of doing it again, that tranny is one hard bugger to remove. My question: Does this oil seal hold pressurized oil or just splash. I am wondering if it is just going to continue to drip or if there is a possibility that it will catastrophically gush a large volume of pressurized oil on a long road trip. I have never had a 3.0 apart so I never seen where the seal is relative to the bearing. I have some time right now and I am thinking of replacing before it gets worse. Clutch is not slipping and otherwise everything is ok. Its not really even showing up on the dipstick right now. Anyway, if any has any experience I would like to hear it. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 I would change it. Leaking oil ruins people's driveways and it will ruin your clutch. Mine was leaking and by the time I got around to fixing it, it would lose a liter of oil every 1500 miles. I was also worried about it gushing all the oil out. I don't know if this is possible or not. I drove it for about 6 months with it leaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 Did you grease the seal when you put it in? The rear inside edges of the oil pan are known to leak as well and that looks just like a rear main leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 oh this reminds me...guess i should do this while i have the transmission out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacoman Posted March 8, 2013 Author Share Posted March 8, 2013 (edited) Yup. Greased it when I put it in. I was careful. PO'ed that it failed with only 60thou on it. I may have been better off leaving the original seal on the car. The old man used to say, "If it ain't broke don't fix it". Seems like his advice is only right if I don't follow it. I am 95% sure it is a rear engine seal. I put some Tracer die in the engine oil. I thought it may have been transmission oil and I wanted to be absolutely sure. It looks as if it is comming out of the tranny drain hole. I will take another look at the pan though, retorquing the pan would be an easy fix. That tranny is an absolute bitch to get out. Edited March 8, 2013 by tacoman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted March 10, 2013 Share Posted March 10, 2013 I'd much rather pull the engine out than drop the transmission. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 I'd much rather pull the engine out than drop the transmission. To each their own..i'd rather drop the transmission. Less wires and hoses to deal with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leo94 Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 If its hard to tell where the leak is coming from you should probably decrease the whole area and then take it for a drive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 I think he means degrease. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacoman Posted March 12, 2013 Author Share Posted March 12, 2013 I did the degrease and dumped in some Tracerline dye. It really looks like a rear oil seal and not a oil pan leak. The Tracerline works well with the UV light. The dye does not work at all using the Tracerline "Blue" light. Question really is to fix it or put a pan under it. It will need to get worse before it gets fixed. I don't mind adding oil, I don't like it leaking, I really don't want a catastrophic dump of oil on a road trip. I have pulled the tranny and it is a real bitch. I can't believe it is easier to pull the engine but you might be right. If the engine needed had other leaks, oil burn, or whatever, I would probably go in that direction. Think I will fight the devil I know. By the way Andreus, how to Detroit lockers work for you? Did you do front and back? I understand there may be some grinding required. I was thinking that my be my next upgrade. Your equipment list is a lot like mine, headers (throley), Borla catback, oil filter relocate, and Warn hubs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 The locker works pretty well most of the time, although it doesn't occasionally act funny on the road and goes bang when taking off from a stop. It's weird, can never pinpoint when it is going to happen or bad it will be. So far not self destruct so I guess its kinda normal. I got some stuff from Amsoil that I'm going to put in the diff that is supposed to help with it making noise. We will see. I only have the Detroit in the rear axle. BTW, no grinding to install the locker. I got the version that goes in your own carrier: https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/detroit-locker-p-2684.html. Installing the extra low gears in the t-case does require some grinding of the t-case casing and is kinda of PIA. Also, require blood....the internal edges are sharp since no one is supposed to go in there after its built. I'd say the low gears would be my second best mod after the locker, especially since I drive a stick. I have an ARB ready to install for the front. I was/am too nervous about putting a non-selectable locker in the front. Some of the wheeling around here locally takes some tight turns and I didn't want to have to get out and unlock my hubs to prevent bind up. If you gonna get serious about off-roading than a locker is almost a must. It is by far the best capability improver for the money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 To each their own..i'd rather drop the transmission. Less wires and hoses to deal with. agreed... while it can be a PITA, there is a lot less crap to deal with if you drop the tranny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 I go with pulling the tranny, but it is not fun, esp if it 4wd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathybuilder Posted March 15, 2013 Share Posted March 15, 2013 I only have the Detroit in the rear axle. BTW, no grinding to install the locker. I got the version that goes in your own carrier: No grinding that I can tell to install the full carrier version either. I've got mine mounted to the 3rd member now, hopefully be putting it into the housing tomorrow. No issues yet that required modification... I go with pulling the tranny, but it is not fun, esp if it 4wd. Agreed, the tranny is a beast to get out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacoman Posted March 17, 2013 Author Share Posted March 17, 2013 Thanks for the help on the tranny. Kinda of got sidetracked on the Detroit lockers. Thats good information also. Andreus, I would like to hear how the Amsoil additive works. Thanks Again John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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