shoesandsocks Posted December 30, 2012 Share Posted December 30, 2012 (edited) So as i found that my traction was less thani would have like with one wheel spining today i was just wondering what the negatives are for welding my diff. i assume it would act like a locker only i have a welder and patience and could do this for free. i have done this to many a nissan 240sx for drifting and know what it does to them but for my front i mean transfer case in 2wd and manual hubs unlocked it should drive like normal with no side effects right? If im just tottaly off base and missing something someone please let me know Edited December 30, 2012 by shoesandsocks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted December 30, 2012 Share Posted December 30, 2012 Yeah, I'm interested about this as well. Two of my wheeling buddies were trying to convince me to do this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radwaste Posted December 30, 2012 Share Posted December 30, 2012 Have a buddy with a WD and a front welded diff; no problems so far. Says the wheel required more attention while off road due to its tendency to straighten out. There are several more topics covering this, as well as some pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 yes it should be normal driving. Now that we have determined that the atx14a transfer case lubricates using the rear driveshaft to turn the tc oil pump, welding the front will do just fine. If not having an arb there, this is what I would have done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoesandsocks Posted December 31, 2012 Author Share Posted December 31, 2012 hmm is that the shift on the fly transfer case or is that the one u have to manually change im still new to this nbbut mainly not a whole lot of negatives guess all i can do is go to the junkyard and pull one off the pathfinders there are all pathfinder r50 front diffs the same some say 96-00 some places say 96-04 just wanna make sure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocky2 Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 I always thought that welding the diff was a poor mans locker. Easy but permanently locked and no going back. You also need a good penetrating weld and someone competent enough to do it. A crappy weld and you'll be in there again and probably ruin something else. I myself will be going with a lunch box locker soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick13 Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 (edited) Sorry, don't mean to jump in half-cocked on this (cause I drive a open/open R50), but here I go. My thought is that you are correct that with manual hubs unlocked that it should drive normal, but I keep thinking this might only be an option for certain type of wheeling? I keep picturing this setup in my rig and I think it might drive me crazy. I've watched folks with selectable front lockers quite often and they basically have to drive completely straight while engaged and immediately disengage once through an obstacle. This makes me think that I'd have to run a trail in 2WD (cause our trails here have lots of switchbacks and tight turns which a front locked diff would be difficult if not downright dangerous to negotiate) and then hop out and engage my hubs every time I want 4WD and even then, I can basically only aim straight over an obstacle (which makes choosing a line and getting in the right position before an obstacle a little bit tedious/limiting). I also would hate to imagine how overheated my transmission would be since I'm assuming you'd have to be in 2WD High when not in 4WD with hubs engaged? Again, only imagining how this might work in my rig, doing wheeling like I currently do. Not trying to sway you either way. Hey, maybe I just don't get the concept and am totally off-base. So take it for what it's worth (maybe not much). Edited December 31, 2012 by Rick13 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 (edited) Yes you are right.... The driver would have to come out and lock the front for a real tough obstacle.... but then again, welding a diff, especially the front, is a money issue.. I would say if you do not have the money to have the luxury of an arb , then you can weld the front but have to live with the disadvantages that comes with it... I have done many rough trail (rock climbing), and I had to use my front locker maybe 25% of the time.... so I guess with money running low, I would have no problem getting out of my truck to lock the hub.... Not to forget, you can leave 1 of the 2 front wheel locked (like the passenger) and locking the driver side hub is a matter of a few seconds.... compared to the 1500$ or so for an arb, I feel it is a good deal... Again, If you are a good welder do it, or get someone good to do it, or else you will be sorry when you break in the trail because of a bad welding job... Edited December 31, 2012 by fleurys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick13 Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 Not to forget, you can leave 1 of the 2 front wheel locked (like the passenger) and locking the driver side hub is a matter of a few seconds.... Holy 3WD batman! Makes me think you'd have to be careful with the torque you supply to the single CV...maybe if you keep that in mind as you run I guess. Any ways, just thought I'd throw my $0.02 and it'd be interesting to hear how this goes if you decide to proceed with this mod. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoesandsocks Posted January 1, 2013 Author Share Posted January 1, 2013 i feel confident but i want to run a trial first so i think ill find another diff from a donor weld that and see how i like it anyone know if there all the same or are they year specific for the r50 or are they all the same Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoesandsocks Posted January 1, 2013 Author Share Posted January 1, 2013 as for welding i used the plate method 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocky2 Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 Looks solid to me!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new4x4r Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 Do it!!! If it doesn't work, grab another diff. from a wrecker. I've been driving with a Spooled front end for a year now. Its a night and day difference in traction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 Never mind with the welding. Sheesh! I'd get tiered of getting in and out of Vajayjay for each obstacle. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linkinpark Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 Well I didn't read ever single post but just to tell everyone I did this to mine about two weeks ago. WOW is it different. Makes snow driving alot easier. Very wierd steering because it always wants the steering wheel to be strait. When it comes to turning it turns better than before. I just make sure that I undo the hubs before I get to dry road. I understand the money issue. Who has an extra couple grand for lockers. But I also have a spare front diff just in case. Just my 2 cents Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 IIRC the diffs are all the same, make sure you get one matched to your rear diff ratio though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stioc Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 Just for the sake of a more complete discussion I'll throw in a couple of things based on what I've learned over the years: 1. Get a rear ARB locker and be done with it - yes they're pricey but they work and hence you only cry once. 2. If money is an issue you can get a $400 Lokka front locker WITH manual hubs. They work OK but frankly locking a front diff first isn't very effective due to the weight transfer. Since you typically need the lockers going up hill the rear locker has the advantage (why you see factory lockers usually in the rear first). Now see point 1 above. 3. In some situations you can use your e-brakes as a cheap locker, this may help send the power from "the wheel that slips to the wheel that grips- it's the power of Subaru AWD". They even sell dual lever hand brakes to control left/right e-brakes. But in the end you'll want...you guessed it, a rear ARB locker. 4. In theory welded diffs work but as Rick13 said above they only really work under certain conditions, anytime you have traction the wheels wouldn't want to turn and can be downright dangerous in ice. The only purpose of a differential (as the name says) is to allow one wheel to turn at a different speed than the other...that's how a car turns. You weld them solid they'll bind and fight and possibly break stuff. Just my 2cents. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stioc Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 BTW, I've been holding out for an ARB locker but I keep asking myself do I really want to spend another $1500 in mods? Sure it'll make things less dramatic when off roading but since I usually travel with others I can always get them to yank me up- why I've been telling 'thexbrit' here to get his ARB locker already 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theexbrit Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 BTW, I've been holding out for an ARB locker but I keep asking myself do I really want to spend another $1500 in mods? Sure it'll make things less dramatic when off roading but since I usually travel with others I can always get them to yank me up- why I've been telling 'thexbrit' here to get his ARB locker already & a winch!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 Welded diffs on independent suspensions are extremely hard on bushings and suspension components. If you are doing this on an R50, definitely get locking hubs so that you can unlock the diff for on-road use. A locker is definitely better than a ghetto rigged welding solution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoesandsocks Posted January 3, 2013 Author Share Posted January 3, 2013 but they do the same ting so wouldnt a locker be just as bad on my suspension? and i have personally never heard of a front drifferential being welded to cause suspension failure can u elaborate on that a lil better i know on from personal experience as i stare at my drift car with a welded i hae never noticed any excesss suspension wear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocky2 Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 Dude Weld it up and see for yourself ! Report back and tell us what YOU think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stioc Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 (edited) No suspension wear, just tires if you're lucky other wise your axle/CVs and ring and pinion. Depending on what type of a locker we're talking about and whether it's the front or the rear they may have the same effect as a welded diff but only momentarily. You don't drive around with a locked arb locker even when offroad, you lock it, get over the obstacle and disengage it. Also there's more give in the offroad situations so the chances of fubar'ing your drivetrain are less but it still happens all the time especially on those built rock crawlers - usually because they're running full spools with massive tires. In our case, the rear axle on the Pathy is pretty solid and can handle the strain from an ARB type locker (part-time spool) in low-traction offroad situations. The front diff is pretty decent too but not sure about the axles/cvs. Heck, I've seen people break axles from not having a locker too- the tire in the air spins up to a good RPM and as it comes down on the solid ground it immediately gets the grip and snap goes your CVs- something's got to give. On a drift car you have a welded diff on the rear- allowing you to power out of the slides but hopefully on cheap bald tires and a greasy skid pad so there's some give. In normal driving though on high traction surfaces you must hear the tires squeal especially when turning? And in rain and icy conditions that's gotta be a white-knucke-fun ride! Though since you already have experience with a (at least with the rear axle) welded diff you understand the risks and if you want to try it out on the Pathy with a spare diff go for it! Edited January 3, 2013 by stioc 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new4x4r Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 WELD IT!!!! Last time I checked, this was Nissan Pathfinder OFF ROAD Association. Offroading is for those who love adventure, and whats more adventurous then diving head first into the unknown? And the feeling you get knowing you did something someone else has? Sweeeet! Not to mention all the guys following this thread will feel better about trying it after you giver a go! DO IT!!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 just remember how NOT to weld it together Lincoln Locked diffs are nothing new and far from a "ghetto rigged solution", more a classic fall back in many automotive based scenes. In the front though your gonna pretty much make your front end primarily a trail only thing and a 'i need to get the eff outa this ditch' type thing, not so much a putter around because its a little slippy out in 4h type thing (in my opinion that is, so take it as you will. Of course I also assume AZ don't get winters like say Canada would get so that may not be an issue). manual hubs will be your road savior, i'd suggest a set if your gonna go for it if you like turning I say snag up that spare diff you plan on, weld er up nice and good, keep feedback coming on pros/cons with some good hands on experience instead of some peanut gallery opinions (myself included) and sell off whichever diff you DON'T wanna use new4x4r said it best, this is Nissan Pathfinder Off Road Association . Making it there safely and intact the fun way is what it's all about! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now