Slartibartfast Posted December 2, 2012 Share Posted December 2, 2012 My driver's door hinges are shot, and it was sagging enough that it didn't always close properly. So I bought a full kit (pins, bushings, plates), and finally got around to installing them tonight. Apart from a little fiddling with the wires, the door itself came off pretty easily. Trouble is, the PO of mine never bothered to oil the hinges, and the pins had rusted and stuck themselves into the little cylinders welded to the door (which is why the plates hogged out). The top one came out with a little hammertime, but the bottom one is going nowhere. The plate moves freely but the pin is rock-solid in what're supposed to be bushings. We've heated it, we've beat on it, I even drilled a hole in the cylinder to shoot some PB in there, but it's still sitting there mocking me. I'm afraid if we keep beating on it, we'll bend up the door and then it won't go back on. Anybody got a bright idea? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted December 2, 2012 Share Posted December 2, 2012 cut the cylinders off and get new ones? from the jy or something? i think at that point thats what i would..... i have never oiled my door hinges on any of my trucks. lol. i put new hinge pins in one door and didnt even install with oil! hahaha/. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted December 2, 2012 Share Posted December 2, 2012 i have never oiled my door hinges on any of my trucks. lol. i put new hinge pins in one door and didnt even install with oil! hahaha/. fskc you're a dumbass to the OP I would keep at it, it will eventually break loose. Try heating it and then throwing cold water on it. I've had success with that in the past. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 2, 2012 Share Posted December 2, 2012 Can you get vice grips on the head and keep working it back and forth (even if it doesn't move to try to fatigue the corrosion? Can you use something like a cold chisel (dull hopefully) to put against the OD of the pin at either end as different positions radially so you can rap it with a hammer to try to work it around and loose. This is the sort of thing I'd try to do first, break up the corrosion. Yopu can always cut and weld later if that doesn't work. Do you have any naval jelly around? Where the hell did you get this truck that the pin is so corroded that it's frozen? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 2, 2012 Share Posted December 2, 2012 (edited) Adamzan has a good point about thermal shock, but instead of water, I recommend a can of dust-off or what ever brand you like. Hold it upside down and it will stream out frozen liquid, this way you can control and pinpoint what you are cooling (the pin hopefully), not just everything at once. B Edited December 2, 2012 by Precise1 Brain fart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted December 2, 2012 Share Posted December 2, 2012 fskc you're a dumbass Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted December 2, 2012 Share Posted December 2, 2012 My buddies 93 has a bottom hinge pin that resisted my earlier efforts, but his truck is a rust free Cali edition. I was hoping to avoid pulling fenders like you have obviously done. I agree with adamzan, keep at it, something has to give. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted December 2, 2012 Share Posted December 2, 2012 Kingman has a good point about thermal shock, but instead of water, I recommend a can of dust-off or what ever brand you like. Hold it upside down and it will stream out frozen liquid, this way you can control and pinpoint what you are cooling (the pin hopefully), not just everything at once. B LOLWUT. won't that possibly crack it? just my thinking? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 2, 2012 Share Posted December 2, 2012 If you don't think well, then don't think often... Nothing will crack. Is it good for the metal? No but this isn't hardened or tempered steel (other than the pin maybe, but that is being replaced). The steel will expand/contract and the weak link is the corrosion which is what he needs to break free. Don't do this with glass parts... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted December 2, 2012 Author Share Posted December 2, 2012 It came in through New York and then spent a few years in Idaho. Of the eight door hinges, only one of them isn't frozen like this. We've beat on it with the chisel (worked on the upper pin) but not much from the side, I'll give that a go, then pull the rubber off and try heating/quenching. Last resort is cutting the cylinder. We did try vise grips, but there's very little room to get at the pin, and then they just slip off without moving it. (It's very hard steel.) Thanks to all for the input, and I'll post pics of what's left of the pin when it finally gives up. won't that possibly crack it? just my thinking? I'm more concerned that the can says 'Product will decompose in contact with flames and red-hot metal to release toxic and corrosive byproducts." That said, if it cracks the pin I'll smile like a monkey. If it won't come out in one piece, it can come out in two! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 2, 2012 Share Posted December 2, 2012 'Product will decompose in contact with flames and red-hot metal to release toxic and corrosive byproducts." Just put on sunglasses, hold your breath, spray and walk away for a bit... Good call though, I never saw (or read) that. I do use shop procedure for compressed gasses/volitle chemicals though. Eye protection, ventilation and just plain If in doubt, clear out... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted December 3, 2012 Author Share Posted December 3, 2012 Victory... sort of. My dad beat on it a little more this morning, and finally managed to budge it. Maybe sitting overnight let the PB dig in. We cleaned up the cylinders as well as we could (we couldn't get much of anything in there, because the edge of the door was in the way) and pressed the new bushings in place. Then we realized the the pins wouldn't slide into the bushings once they were pressed in. We decided to pound them through anyway, along with loads of white lithium grease. The top hinge is stiff, but seems to work. The bottom one is so tight that the pin has already stripped out the new plate. Also, the door shuts oddly now. The top hinge (fleabay special) pulls the door too close to the pillar, so when I shut the door it's compressing the seal a lot more than it should. This makes it hard to shut and makes the latch pop when I open it. We figure we'll shim that up when we tear into it again to tack weld the pins to the plates. The good news is that it's back together and I won't be driving to work tomorrow minus a door and fender. But what a piss-poor design. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 Well, that sort of worked out. Makes me want to go check/lube mine now... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 Makes me glad I oiled mine with chain oil. What's weird is that my passenger side one is failing but the drivers side is still in decent shape. I don't enter the vehicle from the passenger side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inyourface1650 Posted December 15, 2012 Share Posted December 15, 2012 I must admit, I had the dealer do it. Cost $200 + parts. Well worth the price Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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