Hangdiver Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 I just put a 3" body lift on. I know, I know, I should have only gone with the 2" lift.... Now my front seats are canted inward. The two center bolts that go up through the body, one is really tight, and the one on the right won't align up. I'm going to try jacking the center body on each side of the xfer case and see if I can correct it. I just can't find where it's binding up. Any have any suggestions? Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 The driveshaft hoop was not unbolted when jacking up the body. It's under the seat area, I did the same thing when I did my bodylift. Shoulda read the instructions... but I thought I knew better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 /\This! Nunya?? You can read? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 Probably WHY I didnt read them! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangdiver Posted August 13, 2012 Author Share Posted August 13, 2012 The driveshaft hoop was not unbolted when jacking up the body. It's under the seat area, I did the same thing when I did my bodylift. Shoulda read the instructions... but I thought I knew better No, it was all attached. Even made sure the doors were fully shut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangdiver Posted August 13, 2012 Author Share Posted August 13, 2012 Nunya, What did you have to do about it after it happened? I'm going to try to jack the center, well, off center. Probably next to the xfer case..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 Once I unbolted the hoop, it sprung back into shape about 97%. I used a block of wood and a floor jack against the floorboard to get it to my 100% liking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangdiver Posted August 13, 2012 Author Share Posted August 13, 2012 I guess I can read either. I actually did read the instructions, but completely missed that step. It's funny how when we miss a step on something, it's always an important one! Thanks so much for the info. I'll give that a try this afternoon.\ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 couldn't have missed a simple one that didn't matter! Good luck with it and here's hoping it pops into place as easily as mine did! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangdiver Posted August 13, 2012 Author Share Posted August 13, 2012 I'll let you know. I'm hoping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewt6447 Posted August 14, 2012 Share Posted August 14, 2012 Did that on my mates one....same as nunya, jack and a bit of wood sorted it.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangdiver Posted August 14, 2012 Author Share Posted August 14, 2012 Yep, that's what I did! She only went back to about 95% when I unbolted. Jacked the rest out near the xfer case. Thank you so much! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted August 14, 2012 Share Posted August 14, 2012 Glad it was simple and you got it right without a ton of effort Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangdiver Posted August 14, 2012 Author Share Posted August 14, 2012 Now I've just got to get the suspension lift on. I'll see what snags I run into there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 14, 2012 Share Posted August 14, 2012 That's pretty straight forward. My advice with the front is leave it on the ground (or only lightly jacked to reduce effort), grease/oil the threads on the adjustment bolts, and just crank the height from there. Bounce the front end a few times to let things adjust (drive it around the block), but don't adjust in the air. Everyhting will spring and not give you good feedback right away... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangdiver Posted August 15, 2012 Author Share Posted August 15, 2012 That's pretty straight forward. My advice with the front is leave it on the ground (or only lightly jacked to reduce effort), grease/oil the threads on the adjustment bolts, and just crank the height from there. Bounce the front end a few times to let things adjust (drive it around the block), but don't adjust in the air. Everyhting will spring and not give you good feedback right away... B Thanks Precise1, I'll find out on Sat/Sun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangdiver Posted August 15, 2012 Author Share Posted August 15, 2012 Wait a minute, you're saying to drive/bounce it before I make any adjustments, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangdiver Posted August 15, 2012 Author Share Posted August 15, 2012 When you did the body lift and needed to knoch the floorboard of the 4x4 shifter, did you take the band that's on there off? Currently I can't go into 4 low. I just don't know if I want to try cutting through that band also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 15, 2012 Share Posted August 15, 2012 I installed a 2" body lift which lessens the issue and have a D21(hardbody pickup) shifter installed (they are bent differently due tio a factory 1.5" lift) courtesy of the awesome Admin here, Redpath88. Heating and bending or cutting and welding the shifter is really the prefered method over cutting the sheet metal, but to each their own. Plenty of writeups on the mods... Wait a minute, you're saying to drive/bounce it before I make any adjustments, right? It should be in it's settled state when you start the work, as long as it is flat and level. When you make adjustments (mainly for the front) bounce/move (better, drive) it after adjustments and let it settle for a bit before measuring. If you crank the front end high, expect to have to align the wheels. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangdiver Posted August 15, 2012 Author Share Posted August 15, 2012 Cool, this is going to be fun. Thanks for the info. I'll see how it goes over the weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted August 16, 2012 Share Posted August 16, 2012 Yeah, I did the same thing when I di mine. Missed the driveshaft hoop. As a added bonus, I crushed a sport in the rocker panel doing so(I was using the lift at work). I used some spacers and longer bolts to even my seats out. Otherwise, I'm not to worried about if. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted August 16, 2012 Share Posted August 16, 2012 Also if you modify the shift lever, you probably wouldn't have to modify the rubber boot. Trust me, you do not want to drive one of these without that boot in there. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Magicians_Eye Posted August 16, 2012 Share Posted August 16, 2012 Also if you modify the shift lever, you probably wouldn't have to modify the rubber boot. Trust me, you do not want to drive one of these without that boot in there. I 100% agree with this. When I first got my Pathy that boot was ripped up. The smell and the heat that came in from there was pretty bad. Mod the shifter. You'll be glad you did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 Intrustions? Wha... huh? We's dont need em. (hiccup) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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