Precise1 Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 You. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 Either way the barbs will cut the hose it doesn't even matter what clamps you use. The double wire things will only slow down the process but they will cut the hose from the outside instead. It's really not the greatest clamp and fitting idea at all. Whatever though I'm not going to argue with you about this anymore... The best way to do this is still what andreus did with crimped fittings and custom lines. That's pretty much bulletproof and I think it is necessary for holding oil pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted August 18, 2012 Author Share Posted August 18, 2012 I had my local Napa make the lines for me. I'm using 45* fittings on the adapter end. Straight on the end of the line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 what kind of ends did you use? are they threaded or AN? What type of hose? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 Question, when you thread the nipple into the oil filter mount do you use any Loctite on the threads? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted August 18, 2012 Author Share Posted August 18, 2012 No thread sealant. The ends look like AN. The hose is rubber but I think it is like hydraulic hose. I put a heat shield around it because it is close to the exh manifold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 I know you don't use thread sealant was asking about loctite threadlocker? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 Are you talking about what the oil filter actually screws onto, the 1"-16 (or whatever) threaded pipe? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 Yes, the 3/4-16 nipple, I asked before I opened the package, after opening it I see the nipple has like 2 rows of looks like where it is knurled, closer to one end, I figure that goes into the mount and prevents the nipple from going in too far. If I screw the other end into the mount it will bottom out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 Ok, yes, I had something similar, one side bottomed out and seemed short, the other tightened up on an unthreaded portion or something and was long enough for the threads in the oil filter to properly engage. I simply tightened it as much I could by hand and gave it another torque with pliers (and wood) IIRC. Never had a problem, the oil filter counter tightens it and isn't that tight anyway. The gasket stops vibration from loosening anything. I wouldn't put any locktite in the oil flow. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 I did the same thing, tightened by hand and a 1/4 turn with pliers, the nipples in my dual mount were just threaded in I noticed also as they come right out. Going to pick up the filter I will be using tomorrow once I get the hoses so I can get this installed on the truck. Going to use a Purolator Pure One for a Ford. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzZo Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 No, the holes in the top of the C channel were tapped so all you have to do is remove the 3 bolts upward. I'm a machinist, after all! If I wanted to go all Indy pit crew, I could use only 2 titanium bolts... That was the 'prototype' for fitment that actually turned out good enough. It aint broke, so it don't need no fixin'. There is a lot of that on my truck. Could it be better, yes. Is it worth fixing, no. Well, as long as you find it acceptable... You are totally wrong about the clamps though. They are not Nissan OEM for one, I'm not sure where you got that from. Also, they do not suck. Furthermore band clamps (I'm assuming worm gear?) are not necessarily better. It is a matter of application, my dear pinhead. I used the right sized wire clamp to secure the hose to the barbed fitting. A band clamp will squeeze the hose around the high point of the barb, only giving you one sealing point and possibly cutting into the hose its self. A properly located wire clamp will give 2 sealing surfaces (2 lands of the barb) as it straddles one of the high points without cutting into the hose. Do you see any evidence of any leakage, ever? No. You have even failed clampology 101 so you should refrain from making absolute statements until you have caught up. B That's so right.I alway's say if it works don't mess with it.If it aint broke dont fix it.RIGHT ON B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 (edited) OK, today I mounted the remote filter mount, I took a few pics to show where I put it: this pic is with the tire turned as far as it will go to the left: Pic of how I mounted it, I bought a bent bracket from the hardware store, I was looking to get something cheap as I'm basically broke today, I straightened the bracket with my vise, a big hammer and the cement floor, the bracket had two holes drilled in to it on each end, I used a rivnut for one of the inside holes than drilled the other three and used 1/4 -20 bolts and nuts. On the bracket I used three 1/4 -20 bolts and nuts, it worked out good because where the nuts are on the back of the flat bracket they fall right into where the hole is in the radiator support, I did massage the metal around that hole to make it flat. The filter has about 1/2" of clearance between it and the body mount behind it, this filter is the Purolator version of a Fram PH-8A: another view close up: Next I need to figure out the length for the hoses and get a price on them, if the braided SS hoses aren't too crazy I'll get them if they are plain old rubber for me. Coming off the engine will probably use a straight -8 AN connector and on the filter mount end a 90 degree -8 AN connector. If the 90 degree end is too close to the inside of the inner fender it to will be massaged with the big hammer. Edited August 20, 2012 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 Someone else put thiers in the same place, sparking the debate if it is wise or not. Too out in th open for me, but looks like a good install. Probably one of the best places is straight back on mounted on top of the cross member. If I ever need more room under the hood, that's probably what I'll do... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 the only thing I was thinking that could happen with it here is say if a stone got caught in the tire thread and than suddenly released throwing it forward, but I may also fab a shield for the filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 MrJim put his in a somewhat similar spot. Its in his YouTube video from the how to section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 I know I watched it a few times yesterday, I wanted to try to get the filter mounted vertically. I think I'm going to use a section of a semi mudflap with a quick release fastener system to block off the area where I put the filter. The thick rubber should protect the filter from anything thrown up by the tire and it will still be easily removable (or at least on side) to get to the filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 the only thing I was thinking that could happen with it here is say if a stone got caught in the tire thread and than suddenly released throwing it forward, but I may also fab a shield for the filter. Yeah, road debris does weird things so I'd prefer my oil path wasn't in that location/direction of it. Hopefully you'll never have an issue. A shield could make the difference, but a minor colision could disable the vehicle too. I once got a flat on the rear tire of my motorcycle at 50 mph on the freeway, it turned out to be a 3/8 bolt stuck through the sidewall if the tire, smacking the swing arm every rotation. Tire went flat instantly and I managed to pull over safely, but it easily could have been worse. I respect road debris. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEVPATHY Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 I think I'll try to custom fabricate an empty oil or antifreeze jug to place over the starter to channel the oil away from it during changes ... doesnt get cheeper than that lolz ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 TBH, the only reason i remote located my oil filter is because I didn't think I could get it on and off with the headers installed. I've been told I'm wrong, but it looked darn tight. Before the remote locate I'd always shove a rag on top of the stater to catch the spillage and then throw the rag away. In the end I like how easy/clean it is to change filter now. ahardbody, you can get several fittings from Amazon to try out and return the ones you don't need/want. I don't even think they charged a restocking fee. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 Thanks, with out a body lift it rally is a pain to get the filter off, I bought one of those pliers type oil filter wrenches and due to where the exhaust manifold is I can't get the pliers square on the filter so they just keep coming off, same thing with a normal band type wrench, when I finally get the wrench on the filter tight I only have about an inch to move the wrench, I just want it to be easier to change the oil plus with my new starter I would like to keep oil from getting into it. I need to pull the tire and see if I would be better off doing 45 degree connectors on the adapter end or just use straight than as I said I need to figure out the length, the filter mount end I'm going to use 90 degree ends even if I have t make them clear the inner fender. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted August 22, 2012 Author Share Posted August 22, 2012 Question, when you thread the nipple into the oil filter mount do you use any Loctite on the threads? Sorry I misunderstood the question. I forget if I did or not. I believe the nipples are pipe thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted August 23, 2012 Share Posted August 23, 2012 It really isn't that hard to get the oil filter off on a stock wd21. Just reach down from under the hood, takes 2 seconds...Just don't overtighten it. I've never used one of those filter wrenches unless I previously paid someone to change the oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 (edited) After I had the JDM engine installed I changed the oil, engine still had the JDM "pitwork" oil filter on it, had to put rubber tape inside the oil filter band wrench and use a pipe on the handle to break the filter loose!! Well just spoke to salesman at Amazon hose, doesn't look like I will be getting hoses made from them. First the guy told me the braided SS hoses with the teflon lining over time the teflon breaks apart so that doesn't sound good the other option is a cloth braided hose, The hoses I inquired about were 3' long with a 45 degree -8AN connector on one end and a 90 degree -8AN connector on the other end, prices he gave me were: SS - $74 each cloth - $68 each Think I'm going to price the components thru Summit and see if it would be less expensive to put t hem together my self. Edited August 27, 2012 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felipe4x4 Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 i can't remember if i asked this question or not, but is it better to but a relocation kit or make my own...and where should i get the kit, i looked on ebay but what comes up doesn't look right...where should i get it? or if i piece it together where should i get the parts from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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