Are running boards or nerf bars strong enough to support hi-lift jack?

[WokeUpDead]

Have any of you lifted your trucks' side with a hi-lift jack under a factory running board or after-market nerf bar? I need some protection for the sides and the ability to jack up my 1995 from the side as well. I know that proper rock sliders are better, but I'd like to know if the cheaper and more widely available running boards or nerf-bars are strong enough.

[devonianwalk]

I remember thinking when I removed mine of just how cheap they were. I'm pretty sure that if the running boards on your '95 are at all similar to mine, they'd buckle before you get the tires off of the ground.

[Mr.510]

The factory step rails are no where near strong enough to use as a jacking point. We refer to them as "damage amplifiers" because if you come down on something with one it usually causes much more damage than if it wasn't there. If you wheel your truck get rid of those things!

[MY1PATH]

Rock Sliders Is what you need to get. I got a set of trail gear sliders from rugged rocks. I jack with them, drop my tuck on rocks and stumps with them and even use them as pivot points on the trail. They work great

[AndyC]

X4. A few years back a guy and his family came along on a wheeling trip. Everyone warned against leaving the step rails on but he would hear nothing of it. Sure enough, in the approach to the trail entrance he dropped on a rock and punched the step rail up into his rocker. not only did he have to deal with the cosmetic damage, but he had tivdrivevthe rest of the weekend with the rails strapped to his roof rack as a reminder.

[AndyC]

Big fingers and an iPhone are hard to work with...

[WokeUpDead]

Thanks guys, I suspected as much. Back when I had my Samurai, I made myself some basic rocker armor and designed it in such a way that it could be bolted to the frame, not welded. I think I drilled a couple holes, and used a coule existing ones. I'm not a big fan of welding to the frame, have any of you had success with bolting armor to it without welding?

[Mr.510]

Thanks guys, I suspected as much. Back when I had my Samurai, I made myself some basic rocker armor and designed it in such a way that it could be bolted to the frame, not welded. I think I drilled a couple holes, and used a coule existing ones. I'm not a big fan of welding to the frame, have any of you had success with bolting armor to it without welding?

 

It can be argued that bolted on is actually stronger than welded. If you weld the sliders on only the outer wall of the frame rail is carrying the load. If they are bolted through the frame both walls share the load, though the outer wall does see more than the inner one unless you weld sleeves into the frame for the bolts to pass through. A lot of people buy "bolt-on" sliders, bolt them on, and then weld the base plates to the frame as well. Bolting them on and then welding only the bottom edge since it sees most of the load would still allow you to cut them off if you ever needed to without making a huge mess of the frame. That would be a nice option to have if adding or subtracting a body lift later.

Edited April 27, 2012 by Mr.510

[k9sar]

I threw a jack under mine (factory nerf) and folded it. Of course, it had been underwater several times and had rusted out from the inside...

[nunya]

I have a pair of factory bars I am planning on strengthening up, but I wouldnt dare try to use them as a support to lift/protect in stock form. They are meant to hold a couple hundred pounds MAX from a top load

[5523Pathfinder]

I have never damaged a single factory nerf bar..............I wiped out both, plus a hand-me-down! Yeah as stated, they rot out from the inside. They are thin walled and hollow. Not exactly safe to use as a jacking point. IF you have a high lift, just get the bumper or wheel lug attachement. They work much better. If you are going on the trail alot, yeah, get some sliders.

[msavides]

It can be argued that bolted on is actually stronger than welded. If you weld the sliders on only the outer wall of the frame rail is carrying the load. If they are bolted through the frame both walls share the load, though the outer wall does see more than the inner one unless you weld sleeves into the frame for the bolts to pass through. A lot of people buy "bolt-on" sliders, bolt them on, and then weld the base plates to the frame as well. Bolting them on and then welding only the bottom edge since it sees most of the load would still allow you to cut them off if you ever needed to without making a huge mess of the frame. That would be a nice option to have if adding or subtracting a body lift later.

 

Have you ever tried to drill through the frame. I tried to and after 10 min and only drilling through one side I gave up and welded mine to the frame. they are plenty strong just welded to the outside of the frame.

 

I drilled nice and slow with quality bits and using oil. That metal is freaking strong.