albino Posted April 21, 2012 Share Posted April 21, 2012 So my SES light came on the other day on the way to the trail... first time its come on since I bought the truck over three years ago. Turns out its thowing a P1440 and P0325 code. Im not too worried about the knock sensor right now but I would like to sort out the evap leak. I checked all the hoses by the canister and they seem to be in ok condition (old but no visible cracks or deterioration). The canister seems fine as well with no noticeable fuel leaks. Gas cap seems to be in good condition. Where is the purge valve located on the 98's? I was looking at pictures earlier but I believe they were for an older model... I also read somewhere that an improperly seated air filter can cause this code. Now im wondering if that could be my problem. I just replaced the air filter a week before I got the code and I replaced it with a K&N cleanable filter. This filter has a rubber/polyurethane seal as opposed to most filters which have the foam seal. I think my factory airbox is a little warped so maybe something isn't sitting quite right? Anybody had a similar experience/ could the filter be the problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted April 21, 2012 Share Posted April 21, 2012 P0325 is most likely unrelated and will go away when you solve the P1440 code. Tighten your gas cap; if it doesn't disappear within a few driving cycles, replace your gas cap with a new OEM one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albino Posted April 22, 2012 Author Share Posted April 22, 2012 I tightened it up and I'll give it a few days, should the SES clear automatically? Sorry I havn't dealt with the check engine light on this car before. I usually tighten my gas cap for 4-8 clicks and the code didn't appear for a week after the last time I got gas so I'm not sure its the cap. I guess there is no harm in replacing it though. How much does the OEM cap run for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted April 22, 2012 Share Posted April 22, 2012 If it clears, it should do so within a few driving cycles. The cap is probably around $20 to $25. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted April 22, 2012 Share Posted April 22, 2012 I'm currently going through the exact same problem. I have replaced my gas cap with an OEM from my local Nissan Stealership and cleared the code with my code reader. Just a day later the same P1440 code came back. Also, I have detected a strong smell of gasoline when I park after a short trip into town. Using my sniffer, I have detemined that my problem is not from the gas filler area. I'm 90+% sure that my problem is with the canister filter behind the driver side rear wheel. If I figure this thing out before you I'll be sure to post the remedy here. Other wise, I'll keep a close eye on your report. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Der_Vier Posted April 22, 2012 Share Posted April 22, 2012 Ive the same thing....shall lurk for results Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0nkeyprince Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 (edited) I just fixed my P1440, You might have a broken charcoal canister and charcoal has filled your evap lines. In your engine bay, there is a hose section with a small green cap and a tag that says service port, pull that hose out, and if it is a broken charcal cansiter, charcoal should fall out Edited April 23, 2012 by m0nkeyprince Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoosierdaddy Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 I'm currently going through the exact same problem. I have replaced my gas cap with an OEM from my local Nissan Stealership and cleared the code with my code reader. Just a day later the same P1440 code came back. Also, I have detected a strong smell of gasoline when I park after a short trip into town. Using my sniffer, I have detemined that my problem is not from the gas filler area. I'm 90+% sure that my problem is with the canister filter behind the driver side rear wheel. If I figure this thing out before you I'll be sure to post the remedy here. Other wise, I'll keep a close eye on your report. I had this exact issue last year with the same code and everything. I also was convinced the smell was from the canister, but the dealer said it was the due to the known recall of the faulty filler neck. Is your Pathy from any of the list states? http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/results.cfm?SearchType=QuickSearch&rcl_ID=07V435000&summary=true The fix only took an hour & no problems since.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 I just fixed my P1440, You might have a broken charcoal canister and charcoal has filled your evap lines. In your engine bay, there is a hose section with a small green cap and a tag that says service port, pull that hose out, and if it is a broken charcal cansiter, charcoal should fall out I checked my service port hose yesterday. Clean as could be. Thanks for the tip though! I had this exact issue last year with the same code and everything. I also was convinced the smell was from the canister, but the dealer said it was the due to the known recall of the faulty filler neck. Is your Pathy from any of the list states? http://www-odi.nhtsa...00&summary=true The fix only took an hour & no problems since.. I had the filler neck replaced several years ago. They honored the free replacement even though my Pathfinder only spent it's initial year in the North East (Rhode Island ... I think?). Maybe I should inspect the replacement to make sure it was installed correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albino Posted April 25, 2012 Author Share Posted April 25, 2012 I'll have to check the service port hose tomorrow. I felt the hoses by the canister and I didn't feel any crunching or anything so Im hoping that its not stuffed full of charcoal. Thanks for the advice I really wish I had a garage so I could actually look at this stuff during the week! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 I really wish I had a garage so I could actually look at this stuff during the week! x 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 I believe all R50s in whatever year range the recall applies to are eligible for the fuel filler tube recall. My PF has always been down south and its fuel filler tube was replaced under the recall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albino Posted April 28, 2012 Author Share Posted April 28, 2012 So I checked the hose with the service port, looked fine except for a speck of charcoal that fell out. Checked the next hose down the line....full of charcoal as was the port it connected to on the engine bay. Looks like I know what im doing this weekend. Now i just have to find a way to get some compressed air... Thanks for the advice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new4x4r Posted April 28, 2012 Share Posted April 28, 2012 Good info Boys!! I'm gonna check for this problem... Anyone ever deleted the charcoal canister? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albino Posted April 28, 2012 Author Share Posted April 28, 2012 Well I went to the stealership to order a new canister and valve. I was expecting the canister to cost 150 and the valve to be around 100 based on what I had seen in one of the other topics similar to this one... They tried to charge me 297 for the canister and 175 for the valve, basically double what I have seen before. Has anyone ever tried an aftermarket canister or valve? I might head to napa later and see what they have to say. I really dont want to pay 500 for these parts if the aftermarket ones are half the cost and work fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted April 28, 2012 Share Posted April 28, 2012 ... Anyone ever deleted the charcoal canister? I'd like to know as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0nkeyprince Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 Well I went to the stealership to order a new canister and valve. I was expecting the canister to cost 150 and the valve to be around 100 based on what I had seen in one of the other topics similar to this one... They tried to charge me 297 for the canister and 175 for the valve, basically double what I have seen before. Has anyone ever tried an aftermarket canister or valve? I might head to napa later and see what they have to say. I really dont want to pay 500 for these parts if the aftermarket ones are half the cost and work fine. DO NOT go to the stealership, get it from rock auto, the part they have might seem like aftermarket, but its actually OEM. its around 120 i think on rock auto? i got it off amazon brand new for only 75, but they only had one left. So get the rock auto one (dont forget thr 5% code). it soudns crazy but its true, i compared the one i got off amazon, and its exactly the same as the oem one, down to the nissan logo and part numbers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albino Posted April 29, 2012 Author Share Posted April 29, 2012 I just ordered the canister and valve off rock auto with shipping for 230. Part number for canister was an exact match to the one I have now. Thanks a lot for that post, you just saved me a ton of money! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0nkeyprince Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 youre welcome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albino Posted May 6, 2012 Author Share Posted May 6, 2012 (edited) So I have cleared my lines and installed the new canister and valve but my SES light is back on. I'll start from the beginning... Last weekend I went ahead and blew out the small tubes in the engine bay because I didn't have the parts to do the complete fix yet but I wanted to do whatever I could. SES was on at this time and stayed on afterwards. At this time I also took my gas cap off and put it back on just in case that was contributing to the problem. This was the third time I had retightened the gas cap since the light came on. On thursday I filled up my tank and a minute later the light was gone. I would think it was the gas cap except that I had already retightened it three times with no results. My next thought was that when I filled up the tank maybe there was enough pressure to push a path through the main vent line and clear the code. The code stayed off until this weekend when I replaced the canister and canister valve. I cleared all the hoses in the engine bay again and and then used a shop vac to clear the main line. I could feel good airflow into the other end of the line. I also blew out all the smaller lines connecting to the canister. I then replaced the canister and valve and put everything back together. I drove about half a mile and the check engine light came back on. This time it is a p1444 i believe (something to do with the canister purge valve). I tried cleaning the wire connector a little and reattaching the valve in case it had a bad connection the first time I attached it. After a ride around the block the light is still on. I wonder if the valve I got was too cheap... I figue I will drive it around for a few days and then put the old valve back on if the light stays on. Any suggestions? Edited May 6, 2012 by albino Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0nkeyprince Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 i reused the old valve, did you btw get a dorman valve? also, sometimes, after reinstallation, you should double check the lines if its not the charcoal bits, im pretty shure the valves is the problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albino Posted May 7, 2012 Author Share Posted May 7, 2012 Yeah i did get the dorman valve, as soon as I pulled it out of the box and saw 'made in china' stamped on it i got a little worried... apparently my first reaction was pretty justified. The 1444 code is supposed to deal specifically with the valve or valve circuitry so im pretty sure if I put my old valve back in it will go away. Hopefully if that is the case I will be able to get a refund for the new valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0nkeyprince Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 (edited) thats why i try to get oem in critical parts. if you got it off amazon, they have easy returns, thats where i get most of my parts, even my evap canister (brand new for 74 lol) keep us updated Edited May 7, 2012 by m0nkeyprince Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 Hi Albino, Did you replace both the evap cannister and the purge control valve on the cannister? Did you use aftermarket parts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albino Posted May 8, 2012 Author Share Posted May 8, 2012 Hi Albino, Did you replace both the evap cannister and the purge control valve on the cannister? Did you use aftermarket parts? Yeah I replaced both the canister and valve with aftermarket parts. The valve seems to be a litle too low quality though and it is causing some problems. I am going to put my old valve back in as soon as I can. The aftermarket canister seems fine though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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