albino

It looks like he has the Pacer Flexy Flares on there. I have been using those for a while as well and I really like them. I have some around 4" wide but I think they make 2 and 3 inch wide ones as well.

Year: 1998 Lift : 2" AC Lift + 1" strut spacer Wheels : American Racing Sawblades 15x8.5 3.5" bs Tires : BFG A/T 35x12.5x15 Notes: I put a lot of work into the wheel wells to make this work. I opened up all of the fenders by about 1.5 inches and ground down the pinch seams behind the front tires and rewelded them so they had a lower profile. I set the rear bump stops with 1.75 inch spacers to keep from rubbing at full up-travel. After all of this I had no rubbing due to travel but a decent amount of rubbing at right turn due to the fuel line shield that sits outside the frame in the passenger front wheel well. I drive this daily and can deal with the right turn rub although it can be a pain in the parking lots sometimes. After adding the fender flares I do rub on the flares a little during up travel but its worth it to me to not have water and mud flinging everywhere. Picture as it sits now: Picture on the trail after snapping my CV: Picture before fender flares: Picture during rework of the rear fenders: Picture of strut clearance:

I haven't seen anything indicating that the R50 has adjustable steering stops but I wanted to check here before I gave up. Anyone know one way or the other?

nckrawler what is the backspacing on those rims? I'm guessing you are running 12.5 wide tires... I have been looking into getting some 35x10.5 with just the AC lift so I'm glad to see someone is pulling off something similar. Any rubbing at full stuff or full lock?

Things are going good, we just got to San Francisco yesterday. Yosemite was pretty amazing and we saw some really cool things. Ten Lakes up in the high sierras was definitely the most beautiful place we saw in the park and I would recommend it to anyone going. Coyote Gulch out in Utah was really cool although it was like 80 at night which made it really hard to sleep. Also the hike out was a 150 ft class 5 free climb with full packs and then 3 miles unmarked through the desert which was an adventure. I would recommend it to anyone who knows how to use a map and compass and likes to be far out there. Precise I tried to pm you but I think your inbox is full. I'm sticking to the coastal side of California on the way North, where are you?

Thanks for the response and all the information, it was raining this morning again and i couldnt find anything obviously wrong. I had just done a really good inspection of everything a week or two ago so I knew the intake egr plugs cap and injectors were probably fine. I gave in and took it to a shop that had some decent knowledge about pathys. Ended up that the distributor had bit the dust but I'm back on the road near Austin now. No missing now and it is driving well, ses just came on so I'll have to check that out when I stop for the night, I think my rear 02 sensor is playing hooky again.

Quick update... made it off the road for the day after a few hours of misfiring on the highway. Definitely not what I wanted to do but it was pouring all afternoon/evening so I couldn't do any work on it. It is misfiring pretty consistently every 5-10 seconds now and is worse under load. Originally it was just misfiring once every now and then but the frequency increased as I continued to drive. I took the distributor cap off during a break in the rain and it looked fine as did the wire connections and the rotor. The 300 code also went away which is odd since it is getting worse. I am thinking it has to be the ignition system based on the symptoms. It is supposed to still be raining here in the morning so I think I will be forced to take it to a shop to have it looked at. I'm hoping its just a fowled spark plug and wish the rain would stop so I could take a look. Anyways to reply to a few previous posts... I am skipping Arches/Moab reluctantly. I was on the list of things to do but when the trip got shortened a month ago they got cut off. I really wanted to go wheeling at Moab but was worried about damaging something and not having the tools to fix it so that got scrapped. I also left most of my wheeling stuff at home to try and save weight so I don't have my hi-lift jack or tow chains with me... just a single tow strap and an ammo crate of tools to get me out of trouble. Arches and Canyonland got dropped in favor of Coyote Gulch which has the same type of scenery as those places but is more remote and easier to get a permit for. It is actually one of the stops I am looking forward to most. I have no idea where I am going to sleep while in Zion and Yosemite. Both places campgrounds book up half a year in advance and the first come first serve sites fill by noon which is a problem since I will be arriving at most places late. I might end up sleeping in the car for Zion but hopefully for Yosemite my backpacking itinerary will be approved so I will be able to camp in the backcountry. I'll try and meet with some of you as I pass through your area and if I have some spare time there. I'll let you know as I move along. First thing is first... get this engine back to life.

Hey guys I could really use some advice, I'm on the road and out of the blue I have started misfiring. Code 300 pending and a downstream 02 sensor complaining. I just did the cap and rotor a few weeks ago and the still look good. I'm in the middle of no where a few hours from new orleans and I can't do much but keep driving. Any thoughts? ... rough start to the trip

Thanks for the advice, Im heading out tomorrow morning and heading to New Orleans, Austin, Sedona, Grand Canyon, Zion, Bryce Canyon, Grand Escalante, Yosemite, Point Reyes Seashore, Boardman St Pk Beach, Columbia River George, Alpine Lakes Wilderness, Glacier Nat Pk, Yellowstone, Tetons, and Rocky Mountains. Should be a pretty awesome time with some really cool sights. Round trip it is gonna be over 8000 miles so the pathy is going to be getting its cardio in this summer.

I used an old ammo crate to relocate both my coolant recovery tank and wiper fluid tank to beside the battery. I partitioned the ammo crate into two sections so that it holds about 60% coolant and 40% wiper fluid. I think it holds about 1.5 qts coolant and 1 qt wiper fluid so I have to fill up the wiper fluid more often but still probably only once or twice a year. Here are some pics of the setup: and two of progress so far on the bumper!

I finally got all of the maintenance done, fluids changed, intake and filter cleaned, MAF cleaned, rebuilt hubs, repacked bearings and replaced front seals, replaced ball joints and sway bar end links, greased everything and got it aligned. I also dropped about 200 lbs of weight by taking off my roof rack and taking out my hi-lift jack and tow chain. I'm hoping my gas mileage should be pretty awesome now but I won't have a chance to drive it on the highway until my trip so it will be a surprise ha. I am glad I changed my diff fluid cuz my rear looked like a chocolate milkshake after my last adventure in the mud hole. My trip plan has changed a bit and I don't think I will be doing any wheeling along the way anymore . I just don't have enough time to do everything I want to do! I guess I will just have to do it again sometime for just wheeling ha.

Thanks for the advice. I got them installed with a lot of love from a hammer. I don't know why Nissan designed them this way but they are a very tight press fit. I tried tapping them in lightly with the hammer but they wouldn't go in so in the end I was hitting them pretty hard to get them in. I greased them and everything but it still took some serious force to install them. They are working fine though so I will just make a note to never take them out again ha.

Im having some trouble installing new front ABS sensors. I took out the old ones per the instructions in the fsm while replacing my front axle seals and doing the bearings. I have been regretting that decision ever since as the old abs sensors did not want to budge and I had to pry them out... neither of them survived extraction and I ordered new ones and cleaned out the mounting holes really good thinking it would be an easy install. The new sensors feel like a press fit though and I don't want to try and nudge them in for fear of damaging them. Anyone replaced these before?

Yeah as soon as I get my route planned I will post it up and try and meet up with a few of you guys. I will be doing backpacking for the majority of my trip but I am trying to hit a few moderate trails along the way. Something to play around on but nothing that will require repair work.... I want to say that I heard about an r50 or two that made it through the Rubicon. Anyone know? That would be a pretty sweet trail to stop by but I don't think I can make it on 31's and open diffs. Right now I am just planning on doing a few trails at some of the national parks that are more for getting to backpacking spots than actual 4x4 trails.

I will be travelling with my girlfriend and we will be doing some sleeping in the back. I was thinking about taking out the seat bottoms like you said and trying to get a little more storage down there. Good call on the u-joints, I hadn't thought about that. I should be cruising through northern California if all goes well so maybe we can do some wheeling on the way through if your truck is up and running.

I am getting ready for an 8000+ mile trip around the US with my pathy and I have a month to get her ready to go. Im thinking I will do a tune up with all fluids, new cap and rotor, new plugs, repack front wheel bearings, and replace the front stabilizer links and the lower ball joints cuz they are on their last leg. Is there anything else I should be looking into? I am trying to do this on a tight budget as I just graduated college and money is a little scarce. I know that my fast idle cam thermo element is shot and so is one of the knock sensors but these don't have much effect on performance as far as I know so I am planning on leaving them alone for the time being. I usually get about 19 mpg on the highway but the last few months I have been down to 15 for some reason. I am wondering if it is the front O2 sensors but I don't have any codes and they are pretty expensive so I would rather not spend the money unless I know they are the problem. It is looking like this tank of gas is going to be closer to my normal mpg so I am wondering if the cold was somehow killing my gas mileage. I'll find out in a few days what the current mpg is but I gotta figure out how to get her back to 19 mpg before I leave for this trip or else gas is going to eat my money.

Thanks

Nah I didn't realize that was the wrong spot ha... where is it supposed to go? The manual I was looking at didn't exactly make it clear. Also do you have any idea what the part # is for the thermo-element? I am having a hard time locating it.

I thought there was a lunchbox locker available for the rear but I could be mistaken. I can't seem to find it now that I am looking for it again.

I believe this has been done before but only for about a half inch drop. Check these out: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/7627-xterra-diff-lowering-kit-on-an-r50/?hl=r200a&do=findComment&comment=96111 http://www.suspension.com/nissanpickups.htm

I took down my drivers side sun visor and mounted the cb up there. It is a good location because I can see it and access all of the controls easily. I did have to be careful when mounting it to make sure my head could never hit it. That might just be a problem for me though since I am 6' 5". I made a small sun visor to fold down beside the cb to replace the one I took down. I'll try and take some pictures of it if I can remember.

Gotcha, I'll put it on the list of things to do that require the intake manifold to be removed. One of these weekends I'll get around to it.

The truck was warmed up all the way when I was testing it before. I'll have to look into how to adjust/check the fast idle cam. It didn't look like it was moving at all as the truck warmed up so I think it may be shot. Thanks for the help.

I am trying to use the Haynes procedure for setting the TPS closed position sensor but I ran into an unexpected problem. The procedure involves inserting a 0.012" feeler gauge in between the throttle lever and stop screw. At this point, the TPS sensor should have continuity across the top two terminals. Then insert a 0.016" feeler gauge and there should not be continuity. The sensor is supposed to be adjusted until these conditions are met. The problem I am having is that my throttle lever never rests on the stop screw and it is always greater than 0.016" from the stop screw so of course I get the same results for both feeler gauges because they are not actually moving the throttle. Here is a picture where you can see the throttle lever, stop screw, and feeler guage: I believe the reason why my throttle lever never rests on the stop screw is circled in red. This piston does not seem to move regardless of if the engine is hot/cold etc.... What is this piston? Here is another view of it again circled in red: I have looked through the fsm but haven't been able to find what this is. I am guessing it is stuck and that is my problem but I have not dealt with this before and am open to any other suggestions. Thanks in advance.

Well it turns out the problem was with the fuel system but it wasn't the fuel pumps fault. I had parked downhill without a lot of gas in the tank and the pump wasn't able to get any fuel to it. A few gallons later it was good to go and the SES light was off thanks to the new TPS sensor. I took it for a spin and it drove normal but I still need to set the TPS sensor correctly. The method in the fsm for setting it is slightly confusing.