albino

Alright that might be why I couldn't find them, I wasn't expecting them to go to hardlines. I'll go take another look, thanks for both the posts!

Are there breather hoses for both the automatic transimission and t-case or is there just one hose for both of them? I am looking into extending all of my breather hoses but the transmission and t-case are so tight on the body that I cant even find the breathers...

Quick update, I went to the junkyard and pulled a purge valve from a 98 altima. This valve is identical to the pathfinder valve in appearance (except its black not blue) and it also has the same part number to an extent (the second line is not quite the same). I did notice that on rock auto the valves they were selling for both the altima and pathfinder had the same part number. I went ahead and put the altima valve into my pathy and I am now waiting for the SES to clear....hopefully it will. Does anyone know how I could tell if these valves are truely interchangeable? I also picked up a purge valve from a 01 xterra while at the junkyard although the part number stamped on it is nothing like the one for the altima or pathy.

Alright so I am still getting the 1444 code and I believe it is becuase I have the names of the valves mixed up. The 1444 code, according to my Haynes manual, is 'EVAP canister purge volume control valve or circuit fault'. Is this referring to the blue valve that is under the hood, up on top of the engine block connecting to the green service port? For some reason I was thinking that this is the valve that is actually attached to the canister but now I see that is the canister vent control valve... I did check the circuits for both valves and they are getting 12 volts with the ignition on.

Yeah I replaced both the canister and valve with aftermarket parts. The valve seems to be a litle too low quality though and it is causing some problems. I am going to put my old valve back in as soon as I can. The aftermarket canister seems fine though.

Yeah i did get the dorman valve, as soon as I pulled it out of the box and saw 'made in china' stamped on it i got a little worried... apparently my first reaction was pretty justified. The 1444 code is supposed to deal specifically with the valve or valve circuitry so im pretty sure if I put my old valve back in it will go away. Hopefully if that is the case I will be able to get a refund for the new valve.

So I have cleared my lines and installed the new canister and valve but my SES light is back on. I'll start from the beginning... Last weekend I went ahead and blew out the small tubes in the engine bay because I didn't have the parts to do the complete fix yet but I wanted to do whatever I could. SES was on at this time and stayed on afterwards. At this time I also took my gas cap off and put it back on just in case that was contributing to the problem. This was the third time I had retightened the gas cap since the light came on. On thursday I filled up my tank and a minute later the light was gone. I would think it was the gas cap except that I had already retightened it three times with no results. My next thought was that when I filled up the tank maybe there was enough pressure to push a path through the main vent line and clear the code. The code stayed off until this weekend when I replaced the canister and canister valve. I cleared all the hoses in the engine bay again and and then used a shop vac to clear the main line. I could feel good airflow into the other end of the line. I also blew out all the smaller lines connecting to the canister. I then replaced the canister and valve and put everything back together. I drove about half a mile and the check engine light came back on. This time it is a p1444 i believe (something to do with the canister purge valve). I tried cleaning the wire connector a little and reattaching the valve in case it had a bad connection the first time I attached it. After a ride around the block the light is still on. I wonder if the valve I got was too cheap... I figue I will drive it around for a few days and then put the old valve back on if the light stays on. Any suggestions?

I just ordered the canister and valve off rock auto with shipping for 230. Part number for canister was an exact match to the one I have now. Thanks a lot for that post, you just saved me a ton of money!

Well I went to the stealership to order a new canister and valve. I was expecting the canister to cost 150 and the valve to be around 100 based on what I had seen in one of the other topics similar to this one... They tried to charge me 297 for the canister and 175 for the valve, basically double what I have seen before. Has anyone ever tried an aftermarket canister or valve? I might head to napa later and see what they have to say. I really dont want to pay 500 for these parts if the aftermarket ones are half the cost and work fine.

So I checked the hose with the service port, looked fine except for a speck of charcoal that fell out. Checked the next hose down the line....full of charcoal as was the port it connected to on the engine bay. Looks like I know what im doing this weekend. Now i just have to find a way to get some compressed air... Thanks for the advice!

I'll have to check the service port hose tomorrow. I felt the hoses by the canister and I didn't feel any crunching or anything so Im hoping that its not stuffed full of charcoal. Thanks for the advice I really wish I had a garage so I could actually look at this stuff during the week!

I tightened it up and I'll give it a few days, should the SES clear automatically? Sorry I havn't dealt with the check engine light on this car before. I usually tighten my gas cap for 4-8 clicks and the code didn't appear for a week after the last time I got gas so I'm not sure its the cap. I guess there is no harm in replacing it though. How much does the OEM cap run for?

So my SES light came on the other day on the way to the trail... first time its come on since I bought the truck over three years ago. Turns out its thowing a P1440 and P0325 code. Im not too worried about the knock sensor right now but I would like to sort out the evap leak. I checked all the hoses by the canister and they seem to be in ok condition (old but no visible cracks or deterioration). The canister seems fine as well with no noticeable fuel leaks. Gas cap seems to be in good condition. Where is the purge valve located on the 98's? I was looking at pictures earlier but I believe they were for an older model... I also read somewhere that an improperly seated air filter can cause this code. Now im wondering if that could be my problem. I just replaced the air filter a week before I got the code and I replaced it with a K&N cleanable filter. This filter has a rubber/polyurethane seal as opposed to most filters which have the foam seal. I think my factory airbox is a little warped so maybe something isn't sitting quite right? Anybody had a similar experience/ could the filter be the problem?

So I decided it is finally time to put some protection on the bottom of my truck. I don't really like the construction of the 4x4 parts skid plates so I decided to design my own. First thing on my list is to replace the factory crossmember with something a little more solid and square so that I can easily mount skids to it. Has anybody built a custom crossmember yet? I took mine off the other week and took all of the necessary measurements. It is pretty beat up from scraping around so I am hoping that it is not too bent out of shape and my measurments are accurate. Does anyone know how tight the tolerances need to be on all of the dimensions? I think I am going to add 1/16" to the diameter of each hole to account for the fact that I measured everything by hand. I just want to make sure that I don't tweak the alignment of the transfer case or anything. At the same time I dont want to make the holes too large and allow the transmission to move around. I am assuming since there is essentially a piece of foam between the crossmember and the transmission/transfer case that an eigth of an inch or so of missalignment would not be the end fo the world... Any help would be appreciated.

Can you still tuck your back tires all the way in or do they rub the fender at full flex?

Im jealous!! Let me know how much they end up charging for the SAS components...are you doing the install yourself?

I really wish I had read this two days ago before I did the drain and fill! I might have to get one of the magnefine filters though. It seems like a pretty easy/cheap install with great results. A significant amount of fluid won't come out of the transmission cooler lines unless the engine is running correct?

We should organize some trail runs this season. I always see packs of wranglers and broncos riding through, it would be nice to have a pack of pathy's roaming around for once ha

Yeah that would be good, I've had a hard time finding people to go off-roading with around here. Do you live anywhere near Uwharrie?

Wow this thread has gotten huge since the last time I checked it... Im sure it is possible to homebrew a SAS in your garage for less than the charge of buying the kit but that takes a lot of resources that not everyone has. I don't even have a garage so its out of the question for me. I doubt my pathy would like to be out in the rain for a month sitting on jack stands. If you have the resources, good for you. Staang has a kit that is tested and reliable and I think it is more than worth looking into. Any company that is willing to design something for r50's deserves some support. Plus, who doesn't want to have some functional suspension in the front?

I was not able to find a price on the website but as for what the kit looks like I am assuming it will be the same as the one that they produced for new4x4r, check out the pictures here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28655&st=20

Not sure if anyone has seen this yet so I thought I would post it... it looks like a SAS kit for the r50 is finally available! http://staangsfab.com/news/ I stumbled across this website while looking at the SAS pictures for new4x4r's r50, which looks amazing by the way. Maybe if I eat ramen for the next three years I will be able to afford this kit...hmmm

Do you guys know what series pro comps you are running? I am thinking about getting some 15x8 3.75 bs series 52 rock crawlers and I want to make sure they will clear the caliper. Also, I would like to run some 33x10.5 a/t tires with these rims. Has anyone had experience running this size tire and wheel combo with the AC lift?

Hey guys, Im pretty new to the offroad scene but I have a 98 pathy that I've had the AC lift on for a few months now. Currently I am running the bfg a/t 31x10.5 R15 on the stock rims. I am thinking about getting some 15x8 rims with a 3.75 backspacing. From what I have read on this thread it sounds like the 33x10.5 R15 a/ts fit easily. I just want to make sure that you can still stuff a tire with this size. Also, does anyone have any experience with the 32x11.5 or 33x12.5 bfg a/ts? I don't mind reforming any plastic inside the fender but I don't want to have to do any sheet metal trimming. It sounds like there are a lot of rubbing problems with the higher width tires. Would a 11.5 or 12.5 width still be able to stuff with 15x8 or 15x10 rims?